210 ARB bushes

[basssman]

Hi, just been reading the DIY on changing the bushes and drop links, is it poss to do this job without a bench or vice? Noticed that the drop links can be difficult to remove/replace. Dont want to start the job and then find I need a vice etc. Anybody done this recently? Thanks in advance

michael..

 

[television]

No bench or vice needed Michael, but they can be tight to get off

 

[basssman]

Thanks malcolm, tight on the wishbone(torx bolt) or the ARB end?

Michael

 

[television]

The wishbone end does require a good quality socket, they both can be tight, shock is always better than pulling

 

[basssman]

Thanks Malcolm I'll have to get round to it soon the list of things to do is getting a bit long,

Thermostat
ARB bushes
Rear exhaust box
and service B..

Michael

 

[television]

Thanks Malcolm I'll have to get round to it soon the list of things to do is getting a bit long,

Thermostat
ARB bushes
Rear exhaust box
and service B..

Michael

The weather is getting better now, as from the week end, that makes a big difference to when and how you tackle these things

 

[basssman]

Yea but it dont half rain over here in the emerald isle and no shed at the moment!

Michael

 

[brandwooddixon]

A good quality torx bit of the correct size really is necessary. The Torx bolt holding the ARB drop link to the suspension can be a right little you know what to undo.

If I remember rightly you can squirt some penetrating oil through an access hole in the bottom of the wishbone to help.

The drop link is a push fit over the end of the ARB, but due to it being so tight its easier to remove it once the ARB has been removed from the car.

I didn't use a vice or a press just my weight and a block of wood (some lubricant helps when trying to pop the new drop links onto the bar.

 

[basssman]

Thanks Chris, what lube did you use?

Michael

 

[MB TECH WARRINGTON]

leave the bar attached and before you undo the torx bolts prise the links off the bar, it gives a pivot point this way,.

on refitting a good lube is required on rubber bush.

 

[brandwooddixon]

Does it? Interesting.

I used some silicon spray lubricant to help get the bushes back on, but liquid soap would probably do as well.

 

[television]

I would agree with silicon, as it is made for lubricating rubber get it from any plumbers merchants in a thicker form than aerosol

 

[basssman]

Hi, what a nightmare I've just been through! Drop links no problem though you do need a good quality torx bit, undoing the ARB brackets one bolt snapped off flush with the chassis.. ok I'll drill it out I thought. This is all happening with the car about 2 feet off the ground, nearly through drilling the bolt out the bit snaps. Anybody tried drilling a drill bit!! hole off centre now, get through and manage to tap an M8 tap and finnish the job. My arm muscles are shot from drilling Oh for a ramp!
I hope the thermastat is going to go a bit smoother...

Michael.

 

[television]

If a drill bit snaps, then better to smash it with a hardened tipped punch.

Pleased that you have got there in the end

 

[brandwooddixon]

Sorry to hear of your troubles. The ARB brackets were the easiest on mine! My problems were getting the drop link bolts undown - sheared a couple of Torx bits until I managed to get a good quality one that fitted!

Just goes to show how as our cars get older we need to be more aware of the problems of siezed bolts shearing off.

Glad you managed to finish it though.

 

[television]

Just one tip here.

before trying to undo a bolt, tighten it a tad first, this relieves the pressure on the threads where they have been stuck together for some years.

Try it on a door hinge screw, I have seen heads break off before the screw moves, tighten a touch and it come out.

The other thing on a tight bolt, if you can undo it 2 turns, spray some WD40 in and do it up again, it will then come out with ease, and no danger of snapping

 

[basssman]

Thanks for all the tips, just glad it's done now, a lot quieter going over bumps now. I dont like those star bolts though they seem a bit fragile.

Michael..

 

[sms78]

ache from every muscle now

Changed my drop links and arb bushes this weekend . I had trouble with the star bolts as well . I managed to undo them with a normal socket but when i went to do them back up they rounded off .
I bought some good star sockets and luckily hammering on a slightly smaller one gripped it enough to get them out again .I replaced them with normal headed bolts . I had trouble getting the drop links on as well i tryed silicone spray but it didnt work . I used an old can of belt slip in the end dont know if it was because the stuff was colder or because i had a small break but they pushed on first time after that .
Also the antiroll bar is quite heavy and awkward to put back on ( lots of swearing used two trolled jacks to hold it up as i couldnt get the car high enough to get my tall frame under it. It was also awkward to get everything to line up due to the weight and access problems without a ramp !
The under panel/cover is a pain in the arse to get back on as well when you havent got a ramp . I also found a large bolt sitting on the bottom cover when i removed it which turned out to be a gearbox bolt which had fallen out where it holds the cooler pipes onto the gearbox which was a bit worrying but i just put it back and hope it stays there!

 

[D1gger5]

Addendum to Malcolms post:-

1. If nut is tight coming undone then rock it tight/loose a little bit more at a time (Capri rear spring shackles/U-bolts have a tendency to snap regularly).
2. If exposed thread is rusty, use another nut (with correct thread pitch) and screw on up to in-situ nut - this cleans up the ridges/valleys.
3. Use a nut splitter.
4. Before re-assembly smear copper/normal grease on the threads. Then tighten things up apply another smear of grease on the union between nut and threads and wipe off the excess. This reduces the re-rust/weld occuring and eases dis-assembly the next time.

Ensure you have spare nuts/bolts or the ability to get some in case you need to replace them.

Note some items may weld them selves together (dis-similar metals like aluminium inserts on plastic trim and steel screws/bolts). Capri rear number plate holders or Mk 3 indicators to bumper to name two.

Diggers

 

[television]

Addendum to Malcolms post:-

1. If nut is tight coming undone then rock it tight/loose a little bit more at a time (Capri rear spring shackles/U-bolts have a tendency to snap regularly).
2. If exposed thread is rusty, use another nut (with correct thread pitch) and screw on up to in-situ nut - this cleans up the ridges/valleys.
3. Use a nut splitter.
4. Before re-assembly smear copper/normal grease on the threads. Then tighten things up apply another smear of grease on the union between nut and threads and wipe off the excess. This reduces the re-rust/weld occuring and eases dis-assembly the next time.

Ensure you have spare nuts/bolts or the ability to get some in case you need to replace them.

Note some items may weld them selves together (dis-similar metals like aluminium inserts on plastic trim and steel screws/bolts). Capri rear number plate holders or Mk 3 indicators to bumper to name two.

Diggers

On MB's a common one is the screws that hold on the rear number plate. The M6 screws corrode in the captive pillars due to the voltage difference in the volcanic table.