230 ce w123

[bricklayer]

how do i go about doing an oil and fillter change on my 230ce where is everything.

best regards

 

[TimN]

I have to say that it is unusual to have such a basic question listed on the board. If you are unsure, some garages will do an oil and filter change for less then £50. However, we all have to start somewhere. Just remember, never run the engine without any oil; do not put yourself at risk and have respect for the environment. That said then;

Run the engine until warm then switch the engine off

Wear a pair of thin disposable gloves suitable for handling oil.

Oil filter housing is just behind the air filter housing. You will see a 13mm bolt top. You will probably find it easier to use a long extension bar on your socket. Undo the bolt and remove it complete with the lid of the chamber. It is a very long bolt and the lid will only just clear the air filter housing. Be ready with a plastic bag to catch any oil drips.

Next prize the handle up on the old oil filter. Take a look at your replacement to see what I mean. Lift the old oil filter into the plastic bag. Take the old sealing ring off the oil filter housing lid and place it into the plastic bag. Then replace with a new sealing ring from your kit. Smear a little engine oil onto the mating surface of the sealing ring. Check the old filter to ensure that it is the same as the as its replacement. Particularly check to see that anything has not come adrift. Also take a look into the oil filter housing to check that nothing has come adrift in there which might block the flow of oil.

Take the bolt out of the oil filter housing and replace the copper washer with the appropriate one from the kit. Then using the handle on the new filter place it into the oil filter housing. Fold down the handle. Place the lid into position and drop the bolt with the washer through the hole. Tighten the bolt but do not over tighten. Unfortunately I don't have the torque setting to hand.

Next, pull the hand brake tight and for extra security chock the rear wheels. Jack the car up at the front and secure on stands. Place a suitable container under the sump. I also place newspaper under the car just in case the wind blows the final drips. The bolt on the sump will either be a 13mm or a 17mm. Remove the bolt and ensure that the container catches the oil as it comes out. Allow it to run but ensure that the container does not over fill. When the last drops have come out Remove the copper washer fom the bolt and replace from the kit. Replace the bolt into the sump and tighted. Again I do not have the torque setting to hand.

Clear under the car and lower the car. Then top up with oil till the level on the dip stick is reached. Run the engine. Check for leaks around the filter housing and sump bolt and tighten as necessary. Switch the engine off and check the level of oil on the dip stick. Top up as necessary.

Dispose of spent oil and contaminated components at a licensed refuse centre.

 

[stever]

If you use an old washing up bowl to catch the oil, you can get away with not jacking the car up, as it will fit under the sump. Sump plug is 13mm.

 

[bricklayer]

what can i say but thank you very much you are so helpful

 

[Silver Arrow]

Make sure that you use a new copper washer on the sump plug.
(Some supply an aluminium one).
While you are at it swap the fuel filters.

 

[flagstaff]

what everyone else said, plus: if you're going to be getting your hands dirty on this car, now might be the right time to invest in a workshop manual for it.

re filling up with oil afterwards: find out how much the engine needs BEFORE refilling. don't rely on the dipstick to tell you, as this would require a) the car to be on level ground, which is not always easy to find and b) all the oil must have drained back into the sump to get an accurate read, and the time this takes is not predictable.