230 TE W124 1989 Rear Self levelling Suspension

[npk]

I am about to collect an USED (done about 140,000 miles) 230 TE.

I read that the TE may have problem with the self levelling system(accumulator, pump, hoses).

I am in Malaysia and getting parts is expensive and may take a long time.

I would like to know if I can change the self levelling system to a Standard W124 Saloon shock absorbers.

Has anyone made successful modification? If yes, what was done? How is the ride(comfort) after going away from the self levelling system?

What are the disadvantage without the self levelling system on the TE?

All comments, experience and ideas are welcome.

Thanks, in advance.

NPK
MALAYSIA

 

[npk]

Anyone????

Please help

 

[MIKE236]

Dear npk.
Welcome to the TE club. The self levelling system is a great invention but depends on personal preferences. A buddy of mine here in Aussieland had a 300TE and swapped the whole system to a standard saloon type. It rides and feel just like a saloon would. The only drawback that I can observe is that the backend sticks-up due to the longer length of the saloon absorbers.

The disadvantage is only the cost of having to replace each item if it breaks down. If you are good at DIY stuff, then it would save you a lot through labour charges, something which I am not. Throughout the years of owning the car, the spheres and shocks had been changed once in the 12 years of owning it. According to the experts in this forum, the spheres have a lifespan of about 10 years.

The hydraulic pump also do occasionally produce its own set of problems. Try using the search function and you will see what are the likely issues that might arise.

Other than that, if the car has good service history and has been maintained well, It should go on for another ten years! Just my 2 cents worth. Cheers

 

[TimN]

The parts are interchangeable but I wouldn't recommend it. The real disadvantage would be that as a load is applied the rear of the vihicle will lower. Whilst looking unsightly the real drawback is that the rear view mirror will be looking at the ground. This does not happen on the saloon version as the roof is shorter so the mirror can be angled effectively.

In my experience it is always the control valve at the rear above the torsion bar which leaks internally allowing the rear of the car to sag or corrosion in the flow and return pipes. The valve can be refurbished using the MB kit which contains little more than a few orings, springs and ball bearings. The pipes can be made by any hydraulic pipe fabricator.

If you ever have to refurb the valve I would be happy to email you pictures of the process.

 

[npk]

Please email me photo on refurb of the valve.

Thanks

npk@sovereign-tech.com

 

[MIKE236]

Dear NPK.
Tim has given you very sound advice as he has helped me through the whole process of refurbishing the valve. Again, I wouldn't want to swap the system as Tim has mentioned the whole idea of the self levelling system is to self level to the correct height when there is an increase load in the rear. The rear will sag if you are using the standard shocks in a TE. If you say parts are difficult to obtain in Malaysia, then I am sure you can obtain some of them through the internet.

Tim, thanks again for your pointers and superb directions. Hopefully the refurbished valve will last another ten years. Cheers mates.

 

[marshie001]

The valve can be refurbished using the MB kit which contains little more than a few orings, springs and ball bearings. The pipes can be made by any hydraulic pipe fabricator.

If you ever have to refurb the valve I would be happy to email you pictures of the process.

any chance i could get a copy of that e mail too please tim? is the kit readily available? and is it exbenzive?

thanks, Marshie001

 

[npk]

Have not received email from TIM

Hi,

I have not received email reply from Tim.

Thanks

NPK

 

[turnipsock]

I would stick with the self leveling system if you can, it's far superior. Rough roads are a breeze.

 

[npk]

Tim has not replied

Has anyone heard from TIM??

Help needed.

NPK

 

[TimN]

I'm back fans. Photos are on their way. If anybody can tell me a simple way of attaching photos to this website then I would be happy to paste them here. I also have a copy of the receipt at home from MB which will identify the part no for the repair kit. I will have a look for it tonight.

Sorry but I only use the internet during company time.

 

[pascal]

There are 2 ways Tim, first is to open a photo bucket account(or smillar) on the web (free and takes 5 mins) or if your photos are stored elsewhere on the www. Then you just have to copy and paste them into the 'Reply To thread' box.

The other method, is explained at the bottom of this thread.
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=10392

 

[TimN]

I have just gone through my records and found a MB receipt for a repair kit I bought in July last year. The code and description is MA000 586 00 32 N/STK Repair Kit at £37.03.

 

[npk]

Bouncing

My TE is Bouncing and it is lower at the rear.

The main problem I have here is that we do not have any mechanic that can tell me exactly what I need to replace. In addition, I can not get the Slef-Leveling parts here(very rare).

I am thinking of installing Saloon Shocks and Springs. Will it work well?

I have travel with load on this vehicle.

NPK
MALAYSIA

 

[blassberg]

The other method, is explained at the bottom of this thread.
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=10392

which is linked here

 

[andy_k]

if it's bouncing then you need not worry about the valve it's the spheres that are knackered.

If you can't get the parts there then you should ask Mercedes where they can find some for you.

Changing to a "normal" suspension system is not for the faint hearted and you will sacrifice a lot in ride quality.

fitting new spheres takes about five hours (for the average DIY mechanic) and the parts cost about £150 here in the UK

Andy

 

[MIKE236]

I had a similar problem with my TE last year. It was bouncing high and low all over the place. Andy is correct to point out that the spheres are the cause. As mentioned earlier, stick with the self levelling system as the ride is much better especially over roads which have massive bumps and potholes. Furthermore you would not have the problem of the front-end pointing to the sky (as quoted by TimN) and having cars in the opposite direction give you the high beam when driving at night (even with the adjustable headlamps). HTH. Cheers.

 

[Streethawk]

Hi all,

I have just acquired the corrosion problem with the send & return pipes (just as I had to fix the fuel lines in the same place, just where they turn upwards from the floorpan), but probably also the problem with the valve, as there is no bouncing, but the levelling has not worked in the year since i've had the car.

Many questions - anyone feel keen? :
1 - is it ok to run the car with the auxillary (self-levelling) system empty - the reservoir is nearly dry and I have 500 miles to do this weekend... the chances of my finding a co-operative pipe maker in the grimsby area in 2 days are slim to negligable

1a - will running it empty damage the suspension struts (if the fluid cushions the bottom end of the strut, then air won't have the same effect) &

1b - when i fix the pipes, will i need to bleed the suspension system from the struts - if not, where does any air go?

2 - does the supply/return system run at any significant pressure. If not, then could I do a hose repair job as I did to the fuel lines at Xmas?

any help gratefully received (as always)

 

[npk]

I don't think it is good to run the system without hydraulic. The pump and piston can be damaged.

Without the hydraulic oil, I believe the car will just run on spring and the can will be very bouncy!


As for 1b and 2, I have no idea and could not comment.

I had numerous problems with the SLS and converted to customs made shocks. I am a lot happier now. I don't carry heavy load on my car, therefore, I don't need the SLS.

NPK

 

[TimN]

Running the vehicle with damaged suspension must be avoided in all but the most urgent cases. In theory if you are going to replace the pipes you could break the pipes near the pump and arrange it so that the fluid circulates around the pump and straight back into the reservoir. Clearly there would affectively be no dampening to the rear suspension and the level would settle at the lowest point. Every time you go over a bump will be felt and a jet of fluid will shoot out of the broken pipe. The car would look very sad and no doubt attract the attention of the boys in blue who would suspect overloading. You do run the risk of breaking the springs which will not have the sadditional support of the struts. Obviously not an ideal situation. I suggest that you repair correctly. I experienced a similar experience when replacing an exhaust. The flow and return pipes were slightly knocked and the job got a lot bigger.

Localised repair is quick and effective. If you are going to use hose then the one fitted to the flow will need to be sufficiently pressure resistant.

Only the flow is under pressure. There may be a marginal difference in diameter of the two pipes. To reduce friction on the return pipe and so reduce the work the pump has to do the return pipe might be slightly bigger.

I have replaced a number of these pipes and not had to bleed the system. The action of the strutts over the road surface will rapidly pump the air out and suck fluid in (bit like a bicycle pump). Don't forget that air is compressible and so in the meantime the valve will retain correct riding height. I would gather that the time required to expell the air would be very quick. It would then be pumped to the resrvoir where it would emerge and the level of fluid reduced.