320 CLK Auto Stalls in Drive

chrisCLKfrance

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I own a pre owned 1999 CLK 320 Cabrio Auto with a full mercedes service history.

The problem is that when coming to a standstill in Drive, the engine stalls. On restarting the engine, it take several attempts to engage Drive once again without the engine stalling. The result is the same for Reverse also. The action required to do this is fairly brutle and requires a few revs before very quicky droping the stick into Drive and simultaneously reapplying the right foot.

The stalling action feels consistent with stopping a manual car without using the clutch.

Once the car is moving at a constant speed normal service resumes with smooth change up and change down thought the Auto box occuring.

The problem first occured when the engine was a normal operating temperature. It is possible to drive the car from cold for a few minutes before the problem reoccures. Giving the engine a 30 second rest does appear to improve the chance of the problem temporarily dissapearing but to no conclusive extent.

Driving the car in first with no foot on the accelerator, a mechanical sort of rattling noise can be heard coming from the direction of the gearbox (it becomes more noticable when opening the doors) This stops when engaging Neutral.

Changing the Summer and Winter setting make no impact on the results

As soon as this happened, I took the car to the local merc dealership and booked it in for a service as it was only a few hundred miles off before one was due. I explained the problem. The diagnosis was to replace a small electical switch. Needless to say the car stalled within the first few minutes of the keys being returned to me. The response was "it is a cold morning the car is probably just cold" it took quite sometime to convince them that they had incorrectly misdiagnosed the problem. I demonstrated the problem to a senior mechanic and they agreed to have another look.

The second diagnosis they have now given was that there is 'a problem' with the torque convertor and the hydrolic swithing gear. The solution is to replace the entire auto gear box with a new one. The reason given for this approach is that the garage refuses to expose itself to guaranteeing work on a gearbox that has done 70K miles. I can't bring mysefl to say how much they are quoting for this work

Anyone any Ideas what the possible cause for this problem could be?
 

Blobcat

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Hi & Welcome,

I would post up where you and someone can then recommend a decent independant MB specialist. I would not go back to that dealership.
 

type49

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This sounds like a problem with the torque converter lock-up switch. It is possible to cancel it out and road test it to see if the fault goes away. If you can re produce the fault every time, it might be worth suggesting this to your MB dealer & go out on a road test with one of the techs and a Star machine to switch the lock-up clutch on & off while you are driving.
 
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chrisCLKfrance

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Many thanks Type49. Will suggest this.

If it is indeed the torque converter lock-up switch. Is there any reasonable reason why the Merc Dealership (Etoile 57 Metz, France) would refuse to replace this as opposed to the entire unit on the grounds that it expose them to an unreasonable level of risk of having to guarantee the future performance of the entire gearbox?
 

luders79

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Hello,

Also worth checking is the throttle body, check that it isn't all gummed up, I've had this cause simliar probelms on 111 & 112 engines, normally happens more on high mileage cars but worth a look!

Good luck

Lee
 
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chrisCLKfrance

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I am in France and my french is bad. I am going through the MB Customer Care Center in order to speak to the Garage. I asked them to rely the Torque Converter Lock-Up Switch theory and diagnosis to the Garage. The Garage response was they could not understand... They maintain that there is a problem with the Gearbox AND the Torque converter, even though they can not say precisely what...yeah right!

One issue I am facing is trying to translate "Torque Converter Lock-up Switch" (TCLS) to them. Even I understand the principal of this but the garage does not acknowledge its existance. Is there a MB global part reference number for the TCLS that I could give to them as a reference. Also, I don't know how the Star Machine works but, is there a reference to a particular test the Techs would have to perform?
 

wportre

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Same problem with 2001 E240

I don't like starting new threads so am using this one since my problem is very similar. The car stalls with a clunk on engaging D or R when stationary and cold. Can eventually be coaxed into life by entering D or R and going back to N or P just before the "clunk". Repeating this several times achieves normal operation but the problem returns when cold. The car is not driven a lot. It does feel as though the torque converter is locking but I cannot find out the details of the gearbox to confirm that such a lock exists. Does it sound like it is the problem? Or might it be something trivial like fluid level? (Which I cannot check - grr. I miss my 123.) If the lock, is it an expensive (UK) repair? DIYable?
 

Cole@MBS

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Sounds like that could be a speed sensor inside the box, you need to have the fault codes read really!!
 

wportre

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Thanks Sam. No engine fault light showing so I assume there are a separate set of codes for the transmission. I'll coax her (it, really :-/) down to the dealer.
 

wportre

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400 pounds later at my indy and the car is driving me nuts. It was OK for a while (he could not replicate the fault but on the basis of codes went for new battery, clean engine contacts, 2 new leads, clear codes, clear ERV) but the problem has returned. It additionally popped a code and went into limp-home yesterday. I cleared that by removing the battery and the gearbox locked up last night. Reluctant to go to indy or to dealer just yet. Anyone here care to advise? I think the faults are interconnected but not the same source. The car is parked slightly nose-up when the problem occurs in my drive. Help!
 

Cole@MBS

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Would need to know what the code was that he found, wouldn't like to guess as it could be so many things, If you could post what codes were found it would help, cant see what way you park it is going to make any differnce!
 

Simon Palmer

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I own a pre owned 1999 CLK 320 Cabrio Auto with a full mercedes service history.

The problem is that when coming to a standstill in Drive, the engine stalls. On restarting the engine, it take several attempts to engage Drive once again without the engine stalling. The result is the same for Reverse also. The action required to do this is fairly brutle and requires a few revs before very quicky droping the stick into Drive and simultaneously reapplying the right foot.

The stalling action feels consistent with stopping a manual car without using the clutch.

Once the car is moving at a constant speed normal service resumes with smooth change up and change down thought the Auto box occuring.

The problem first occured when the engine was a normal operating temperature. It is possible to drive the car from cold for a few minutes before the problem reoccures. Giving the engine a 30 second rest does appear to improve the chance of the problem temporarily dissapearing but to no conclusive extent.

Driving the car in first with no foot on the accelerator, a mechanical sort of rattling noise can be heard coming from the direction of the gearbox (it becomes more noticable when opening the doors) This stops when engaging Neutral.

Changing the Summer and Winter setting make no impact on the results

As soon as this happened, I took the car to the local merc dealership and booked it in for a service as it was only a few hundred miles off before one was due. I explained the problem. The diagnosis was to replace a small electical switch. Needless to say the car stalled within the first few minutes of the keys being returned to me. The response was "it is a cold morning the car is probably just cold" it took quite sometime to convince them that they had incorrectly misdiagnosed the problem. I demonstrated the problem to a senior mechanic and they agreed to have another look.

The second diagnosis they have now given was that there is 'a problem' with the torque convertor and the hydrolic swithing gear. The solution is to replace the entire auto gear box with a new one. The reason given for this approach is that the garage refuses to expose itself to guaranteeing work on a gearbox that has done 70K miles. I can't bring mysefl to say how much they are quoting for this work

Anyone any Ideas what the possible cause for this problem could be?

Hi there, I had a similar problem with my old 98 CLK 320 petrol. it turned out to be the crank position sensor. My local chap in Newbury who I have to say is excellemt assured me this wasnt the problem but I bought the part on tinternet and he fitted it for me. Hey presto he admitted he had learnt something and he is an ex mercedes main dealer mechanic of 20 years or so.

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=37673

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=37987

These were the threads that helped me at the time.
 

jberks

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The CPS does cause stalling but if she's running fine until drive is engaged I can't really see it being related. I tend to agree with the torque converter diagnosis and whilst the dealer probably does want to replace the whole box, local gearbox specialists should be happy to replace the torque converter on it's own - and won't charge £100 per hour whilst they do it.
 

wportre

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My issue is homing in on the engine and not the gearbox at all. Effectively being in "D" is stalling the engine and it could be the same with chrisCLKfrance. On my E240 The EGR valve is suspect: I just had it off and when closed was able to blow a "hiss" through it with lung power. I assume that it should seal tight in order to maintain the vacuum and I have therefore just located a vacuum leak: can anyone confirm? (I've tried a forum search.)
 

jamesmc

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I had a similar problem, some time ago. Pop the car into drive or reverse when holding it on the brakes and it would almost stall, not quite, but very close though. Turned out to be the MAF had a liberal coating of oil and crap on it. The MAF fault showed up most when attempting to overtake with the engine running at around 4000rpm. Steady revs but no power. If you drive the car gently all the time with this problem will barely be noticeable.
I would suggest you take the car for a good blast and see if you get any of these symptoms. Other than using bit of fuel it's a quick cheap check and certainly wont' do any harm.
 

Autofix

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I have seen converter lockup problems many times but never have I seen one where the gear change is perfect. If the lockup adaptions are wrong, for example, it will feel like its going to stall but even with lockup at near full they still manage to stay running.
The fault as described sounds more like an engine running concern that a trans issue. As was suggested, the way to check the converter is to turn it off with the star.
Being told the car stalled because of it being a cold day is enough of a reason to bring it somewhere else.
 

wportre

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Update: replaced MAF and EGR valve. No deal. No error codes from gearbox or engine. Reset adaptive settings on engine and gearbox. Still will not engage gear without stalling engine until gearbox oil temp has hit I estimate 12C. Interestingly someone has the exact same problem on the exact same car here http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1p0x7-mercedes-1998-w210-e240-auto . I'm hoping it's not gearbox oil contamination and wondering if the fluid has aged and become more viscous. So next step is to ask Steve Redfearn what's up and have him change the oil. But all other ideas welcome.
 
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