350 SLK Non-starter (Not turning over)

[james2747]

The wives pride and joy is her 350 SLK … 2006 vintage. Gets more TLC than I do!!

It is in excellent condition, probably due to fact it remains in the garage for 11 months of the year and then is only ever allowed out when the sun is shining and temperature above about 1,000 degrees!!

During the ‘lay-up’ period it is constantly on a Cetec smart battery charger

I start engine every 2 to 3 weeks and allow it to warm up to normal temperature (about 15 mins) during which time I cycle through gears 5 or 6 times, windows up & down, brake pedal pressed a good few times, wing mirrors in & out, etc., to minimise risk of anything seizing up.

The engine always bursts in to life first time and I have never had any issues with the car ... until today.

Tried to start it as normal but engine will not turn over.

Battery in excellent condition.

No ‘clicking’ sound from starter solenoid, gear selector in ‘Park’ … nothing!!

Full set of instrument lights illuminate on the dash.

It would appear no power is getting to the starter as there is just silence when key is turned to the start position … as if some ‘isolator’ is in play.

As I mentioned previously, car has always started first time, so its not as if a problem has been getting worse and the car progressively harder to start or shown any previous signs of hesitancy or clicking noises like the solenoid sticking, so I’m baffled as to what this ‘sudden’ problem could be that is causing this non starting (or more accurately) non turning-over problem.

Any ideas or suggestions as to what the cause of this ‘non starting’ could be would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DREAMER NO2]

James giet in to the car , and move the selector through the gears a few times before you crank it,, you say battery is in exellent condition .What was the voltage from the battery .

 

[james2747]

James giet in to the car , and move the selector through the gears a few times before you crank it,, you say battery is in exellent condition .What was the voltage from the battery .

Hi Dreamer
Thank you for your response.
Battery voltage was 12.8 volts.

When it wouldn't turn over, I even disconnected the battery for a few minutes in the hope that any electrical settings that may have been causing the problem would then be 're-set' ... seems to work on my laptop when I have problems!!
Gear selector was moved a good few times and returned to 'Park'.
I thought something like a 'lock-off' switch may have been the culprit, so moved lever and then ensured it was firmly in 'Park'.
Also tried to start it in Neutral as well (with brake pedal applied).

When you turn the key, from 'Ignition on' to start position ... there is no noise whatsoever from starter solenoid so I'm assuming there is no power getting to it.
I hear the fuel pump in the back area kick in when I turn key to switch ignition on but other than that ... nothing.
I'm not sure on car electrics but if it was an ignition (isolator) fault wouldn't it isolate the fuel pump as well.

I'm going to try to borrow a colleagues fault Reader ... but as you can appreciate that is not too easy in the current lock down situation.

 

[Wighty]

Hi Dreamer
Thank you for your response.
Battery voltage was 12.8 volts.

When it wouldn't turn over, I even disconnected the battery for a few minutes in the hope that any electrical settings that may have been causing the problem would then be 're-set' ... seems to work on my laptop when I have problems!!
Gear selector was moved a good few times and returned to 'Park'.
I thought something like a 'lock-off' switch may have been the culprit, so moved lever and then ensured it was firmly in 'Park'.
Also tried to start it in Neutral as well (with brake pedal applied).

When you turn the key, from 'Ignition on' to start position ... there is no noise whatsoever from starter solenoid so I'm assuming there is no power getting to it.
I hear the fuel pump in the back area kick in when I turn key to switch ignition on but other than that ... nothing.
I'm not sure on car electrics but if it was an ignition (isolator) fault wouldn't it isolate the fuel pump as well.

I'm going to try to borrow a colleagues fault Reader ... but as you can appreciate that is not too easy in the current lock down situation.

Have you got another key to try ?

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Also alarm and imobiliser can create problems . Have you checked all your fuses .There is a large fuse for the starter motor, .You need your hand book to find that one i am not familiar with your model . The starter switch comes in to this picture if you turn it to start and you get no movement from the starter it just might be the switch. I would fix a bulb to the starter motor at the large terminal ,,and one from other side of the bulb to earth on the body or any metal ,,then put the bulb in a position where you can see it when you try to crank the engine .. When you crank the engine no light tells you the 12 volt power to it is broken ...And if it bulb lights up then the switch is good and circuit is ok down to the starter motor. This starter motor will be faulty.

 

[ajlsl600]

as dreamer no 2. about how i would investigate the matter. do you need yr foot on brake to start that ? has brake switch jammed ?

 

[DREAMER NO2]

We not sure about that, as i said i know very little about new models .

 

[ajlsl600]

We not sure about that, as i said i know very little about new models .

FORTUNATLY SUCK SQUEEZE BANG BLOW STILL APPLIES IF ONE CAN GET TFT TO TURN.!!! HOPE OP GETS SORTED