560 SEC. Got it started at last.

[Mikesmerc]

My fuel pump runs when I turn on ignition but how do I check if there is fuel getting as far as the injectors as I assume the pump only runs at ignition and when the engine is running (which it is not). Spark at plugs are OK.
Any comments/suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.
Regards
Mike

 

[talbir]

If you remove the air filter and on the paseneger side of the engine, you will see 1 hose with a metal union (17mm) feeding into the fuel distributor. Crack open this line using a 17mm spanner and disconnect from fuel distributor. With ignition on, fuel will spurt out from this hose.

alternatively, loosen one of the metal fuel lines from the top of any one of the 8 injectors using a 12mm spanner - with ignition running, fuel should dribble out here as well.

 

[talbir]

Just to clarify, the 17mm metal union is feeding into the SIDE of the fuel distributor.

 

[Mikesmerc]

Cheers Talbir will try that.

Regards
Mike

 

[Mikesmerc]

I have just loosened the 17mm union (the other one enters a cylindrical object before entering the distributor)which enters the distributor and turned on the ignition, the pump could be heard for a few seconds then I checked under the bonnet and saw that it gave a healthy gush of fuel. I then retightened the union and opened the injector pipe, returned on the ignition, pump sounded but no fuel from this pipe. Is this normal?. I cannot start the car to see if fuel would be delivered from this pipe.
Any other ideas?
Cheers Talbir

 

[Orlando 300E]

Hello Mike,
Sounds more like you have an ignition problem -have seen your other post about fuel filter location.
Take a look inside the rotor cap(s) on the distributor(s) -don?t know your car, you could have 2 one for each bank of cylinders.
Chances are the cap and rotor will be dirty and/or pitted -dependant on condition either give them a clean with sand paper or wire brush if good or replace with new ones if not.
If this is the problem, you would still get a spark at the spark plug, but a very weak one -certainly too week to ignite the fuel air mix.
This happened my 300E, it was hesitant, stalling at lights and then eventually dead after a couple of weeks suffering. The problem only occurred for the first 7-10 miles of a days driving. The fault was severe corrosion of the rotor contacts due to moisture getting in via the melted rotor cap! -The problem cleared up once the moisture evaporated after the 7-10 miles.

Good luck
Orlando

Ps If I am correct, get your new rotor & cap from a dealer, they last longer.

 

[Mikesmerc]

Will have a look when I get home from work, I already disconnected one of the leads and attached it to a loose plug which resulted in a bright blue spark. Will try anything at this stage.
Cheers Orlando

 

[talbir]

Whilst engine is turning, you should see fuel spray from injectors - try injector number 1. Disconnect 12mm connection to injector and see if fuel is even reaching injector thru' pipe from distributor.

If not, then your distributor or CIS relay could be faulty.

As Orlando has already suggested, you need to have a full check on the fuel and ignition system to find the culprit.

Check :

Rotor
Distributor cap
HT leads (including king lead to coil)
plugs
CIS relay
fuel distributor

 

[Mikesmerc]

I already checked for spark at plugs and seem ok. Just to be sure removed dist. cap, cleaned contacts and tip of rotor. Rechecked for spark at plug, still good blue spark. Disconnected pipe from no. 1 injector, turned her over and say a couple of drops of petrol come out each time she turned over. Now Im totaly baffled. Spark + Fuel = Fire. No such luck.
Any more suggestions Guys?
Regards
Mike

 

[talbir]

Worth checking whether you are getting a spark at every plug and fuel at every injector.

Laborius but that's testing.....

Also, check your air metering plate - it isn't stuck is it ?

Can happen if it works loose.

Did you change anything before this symptom occurred ?


talbir

 

[Mikesmerc]

Thanks for repying Talbir
Have the car for over a year, started every time first half second. Then one day I wore the battery down trying to start it. Since then she would start but it would wear a battery and a half down. It seem then it would only fire as soon as I left the ignition key go and so on until she would eventually start and tick over beautifully but did not respond to the accelerator as good as she used. Now it wont even fire. When you say metering plate is that the large disc on the intake manifold? if so it is moving up and down ok.
Could it be possible that there is not enough pressure being developed to break the injector?
At the car as we type, getting increasingly difficult to see keys with my oily fingers.
Mike

 

[Francois]

Over Voltage Protection Relay maybe? (OVP)

 

[MikeC]

Don't know much about the 560 SEC but this step in performance and difficulty starting is similar to a timing chain slippage or some other change in timing.

Mike

 

[Mikesmerc]

Maybe ignition timing but I wouldnt think timing chain for when it started eventually it used to run sweetly.
Where are all these relays located ? And how do I know which one is which.
Thanks for your replys.
Still struggling on
Mike

 

[Mikesmerc]

Just changed the plugs and off it went. Feel a bit daft now but I didnt suspect the plugs as I got no indication that it could be the plugs (missfire etc).
Saying that, could it have been the plugs at all or did I accidently reconnect something. You would think it would fire on one of the cylinders with the old plugs as they didnt look that bad.
Only prob now its running a bit lumpy.
Thanks again to everybody that replied.
Regards
Mike

 

[TimN]

Could it not be a problem with the cold start sensor or injector?