SlowlyButSurely
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- Jan 14, 2004
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Well, I said I would report back on this job which I carried out on Saturday, so here goes:
It's not particularly difficult but it is a bit fiddly and it had me questioning the sanity and parentage of the person who designed the positioning of the fuel pipes and oil filter housing. The whole job took me 4 hours.
I bought a long (12mm) socket to fit the glowplugs. Two of the glowplugs are obstructed by fuel pipes and no. 6 glowplug is behind the oil filter housing so it's not possible to get a ratchet onto the socket on these three glowplugs. Fortunately my socket has a hole in the end so that a small screwdriver can be used as a tommy bar. All six glowplugs came undone very easily (luckily!).
I managed to salvage and reuse the original inlet manifold gasket but it would have been better to fit a new one.
This is how I did it (with reference to the drawing that someone kindly posted on the original thread):
1. Remove the rubber hose from the air filter housing to the EGR valve housing (part 77).
2. Disconnect the linkage from the throttle to the EGR valve by prising off the ball joint with a screwdriver.
3. Remove the clamp that secures the pipe from the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold
4. Undo four bolts and remove the EGR valve (part 77). This is sealed to the intake pipe by a rubber seal and required a bit of heaving to pull it off.
4. Undo two bolts underneath the intake pipe (part 29) on the right hand side and one allen bolt on the other side and pull it off the manilfold.
5. Undo the allen bolts securing the plastic cover on top of the engine and remove it. This will reveal the crankcase breather hoses which are plastic tubes joined together with rubber connectors. There are 8 rubber pipe connectors which are a push fit into holes in the top of the inlet manifold.
6. Prise off the throttle linkage to the injection pump from it's top connection.
7. Undo two bolts securing the throttle linkage assembly and remove it. To remove one of these bolts I first had to remove the middle section of the crankcase breather pipes and when I pulled the two rubber connectors from the inlet manifold they both snapped off in the manifold because the rubber had hardened. At this point I decided not to remove any more of them.
8. Undo all the star drive bolts securing the inlet manifold to the cylinder head and lift the manifold enough to allow access underneath. Then pull off two rubber tubes and two electrical connections from the valve on the underside.
5. Remove all the glowplugs and fit new. This tested my perserverance somewhat. Two of them had to be unscrewed one flat at a time removing and repositioning the socket each time. I'm sure there must be a better tool for this job but if there is I haven't got one!
The inlet manifold and inlet ports in the cylinder head were considerably bunged up with black oily gunge which I spent about half an hour cleaning out.
Reassembly was straightforward except for refitting the two rubber plugs which had sheared off. I suppose I should really have waited until Monday and bought some new ones, but I needed to use the car so I wedged a piece of rubber underneath the plastic cover to keep them pressed in position.
I think that's everything. The engine now starts as it should and also seems to run more smoothly.
It's not particularly difficult but it is a bit fiddly and it had me questioning the sanity and parentage of the person who designed the positioning of the fuel pipes and oil filter housing. The whole job took me 4 hours.
I bought a long (12mm) socket to fit the glowplugs. Two of the glowplugs are obstructed by fuel pipes and no. 6 glowplug is behind the oil filter housing so it's not possible to get a ratchet onto the socket on these three glowplugs. Fortunately my socket has a hole in the end so that a small screwdriver can be used as a tommy bar. All six glowplugs came undone very easily (luckily!).
I managed to salvage and reuse the original inlet manifold gasket but it would have been better to fit a new one.
This is how I did it (with reference to the drawing that someone kindly posted on the original thread):
1. Remove the rubber hose from the air filter housing to the EGR valve housing (part 77).
2. Disconnect the linkage from the throttle to the EGR valve by prising off the ball joint with a screwdriver.
3. Remove the clamp that secures the pipe from the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold
4. Undo four bolts and remove the EGR valve (part 77). This is sealed to the intake pipe by a rubber seal and required a bit of heaving to pull it off.
4. Undo two bolts underneath the intake pipe (part 29) on the right hand side and one allen bolt on the other side and pull it off the manilfold.
5. Undo the allen bolts securing the plastic cover on top of the engine and remove it. This will reveal the crankcase breather hoses which are plastic tubes joined together with rubber connectors. There are 8 rubber pipe connectors which are a push fit into holes in the top of the inlet manifold.
6. Prise off the throttle linkage to the injection pump from it's top connection.
7. Undo two bolts securing the throttle linkage assembly and remove it. To remove one of these bolts I first had to remove the middle section of the crankcase breather pipes and when I pulled the two rubber connectors from the inlet manifold they both snapped off in the manifold because the rubber had hardened. At this point I decided not to remove any more of them.
8. Undo all the star drive bolts securing the inlet manifold to the cylinder head and lift the manifold enough to allow access underneath. Then pull off two rubber tubes and two electrical connections from the valve on the underside.
5. Remove all the glowplugs and fit new. This tested my perserverance somewhat. Two of them had to be unscrewed one flat at a time removing and repositioning the socket each time. I'm sure there must be a better tool for this job but if there is I haven't got one!
The inlet manifold and inlet ports in the cylinder head were considerably bunged up with black oily gunge which I spent about half an hour cleaning out.
Reassembly was straightforward except for refitting the two rubber plugs which had sheared off. I suppose I should really have waited until Monday and bought some new ones, but I needed to use the car so I wedged a piece of rubber underneath the plastic cover to keep them pressed in position.
I think that's everything. The engine now starts as it should and also seems to run more smoothly.