A Class bottom damper bolt torque ?

Submariner1

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Hi
One rear spring just sheared!
Without the required spring clamp. I heard on can jack up the trailing arm, undo the lower damper bolt, drop the arm remove and replace the spring and then jack the arm up till the damper and hole in the arm line up.
Well thats the plan. ( any comment welcome)

problem is WIs Says
First torque 80 nm
Second > 90

see pic
Is this Torque plus Angle, i.e. 2EA4D448-0E94-496D-BB9F-B4C3E3E29022.jpeg Does that mean tighten to 80 nm and then turn the nut a further 90 degrees?

any advise on the toque thing and my proposed short cut welcome.
 

LostKiwi

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In theory yes.
I've done that on other cars but can't say whether it's the same for an A class. Remember to put a jack under the spring platform before undoing the damper and pay close attention to brake flexi lines, parking brake cable and ABS wiring.

Yes 80Nm + 90°
 

EmilysDad

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I don't know your car, but I've used your method on my wife's Astra a while back.
're torque & angle tightening .... yes :)
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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In theory yes.
I've done that on other cars but can't say whether it's the same for an A class. Remember to put a jack under the spring platform before undoing the damper and pay close attention to brake flexi lines, parking brake cable and ABS wiring.

Yes 80Nm + 90°
Thanks for the prompt reply.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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I don't know your car, but I've used your method on my wife's Astra a while back.
're torque & angle tightening .... yes :)
Thanks for the prompt reply.
just put penetrating oil on the damper nut ... well locked on :)

And then noticed a damp patch under my old jack ... the one I was planning on raising the trailing arm with.
Hmmm don't fancy that releasing Once the damper is undone ... guess the spring would fire the arm down with serious force.
Needs some investigation as it weirdly hadn’t dropped a mm.
 

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