ABC boffins needed

alexanderfoti

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If you get a garage that knows these cars to diagnose it now, it may be cheaper.

Or just change the damper as it's not a super expensive part, if it goes away you know it's that
 

SL63 Mark

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Reading the above, the symptoms do sound similar to the intermittent growling noise which appeared at around 25,000 miles in my 2016 SL63. MB Salisbury replaced the ABC pulsation damper in the engine bay, and hey presto the noise went away. Total cost including labour was less than £200 IIRC.

Apparently this is quite common. Probably worth replacing it as a precaution, as the pulsation damper is there for a reason, and failure can cause issues elsewhere in the system I believe ? This was a couple of years ago.

I think there is only one on the R231, at least there was no discussion about any others. Could be wrong.
 
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Dean Fletcher

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Had a chat with Indy today in Ulverston Glynn Dunford. Seems a decent guy. Trying to find the part number for the damper. Will give mb Newcastle a call.
Watched a few videos of the install doesn’t look that bad of a job could it really be a DIY job?
 

alexanderfoti

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Reading the above, the symptoms do sound similar to the intermittent growling noise which appeared at around 25,000 miles in my 2016 SL63. MB Salisbury replaced the ABC pulsation damper in the engine bay, and hey presto the noise went away. Total cost including labour was less than £200 IIRC.

Apparently this is quite common. Probably worth replacing it as a precaution, as the pulsation damper is there for a reason, and failure can cause issues elsewhere in the system I believe ? This was a couple of years ago.

I think there is only one on the R231, at least there was no discussion about any others. Could be wrong.
All ABC cars have one pulsation damper but 3 (or 4} "dampers" that mb call accumulators due to their intended function.

They all do the same thing though so can give similar symptoms.
 

alexanderfoti

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Had a chat with Indy today in Ulverston Glynn Dunford. Seems a decent guy. Trying to find the part number for the damper. Will give mb Newcastle a call.
Watched a few videos of the install doesn’t look that bad of a job could it really be a DIY job?
Spotlessly clean around the pump. SPOTLESS! Mb want you to remove the pump and turn it upside down before you remove the accumulator to prevent dirt getting in.

I have had a few that are seized but it always depends on the luck of the draw
 
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Dean Fletcher

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Spotlessly clean around the pump. SPOTLESS! Mb want you to remove the pump and turn it upside down before you remove the accumulator to prevent dirt getting in.

I have had a few that are seized but it always depends on the luck of the draw
Does the ABC need to be bled? Obviously it will need to sit for a while Before hand
 
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Dean Fletcher

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Been out and looked at a bit more live data to try and pin point an issue its here as follows,
Car level at its lowest after turning the car on.
IMG_3174.jpg
Car height after setting in on it highest setting, I left it there and a while and there was no change which rules out any leaks?
IMG_3173.jpg
Pressure in the struts again didn't really change much after leaving it for a while.
IMG_3177.jpg
the car was stationary hence the 0 readings
IMG_3175.jpg
all control modules completed showing no anomalies, a decent power supply.
IMG_3176.jpg
strut shut off valves on on, I wonder if the front left shut off valve is first on the check list and that way it showed up first on the fault codes as mechanical fault.
IMG_3179.jpg

all codes have been cleared, not one fault code remains, the was a couple little electric codes the stereo and and sun roof module?? both work as they should, wonder if thats related to the auxiliary battery.

New voltage converter arrives today will fit that, go for a drive, make sure I press every single button in the car :p:p, C M & S mode including all 3 suspension mode comfort which uses the camera, magic body control and the AMG race setting.

in the meantime will have look at the engine bay to spot this big black lightbulb (dampener`).

Will then return and scan .......the saga continues.
 
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Dean Fletcher

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Auxiliary battery/voltage converter fitted very simple if you know how to take the boot trim off .
Done 50 miles an it hasn’t come back on.

Scanned codes after test drive and no codes have returned which is odd. Also sat here having a coffee after doing 50 miles and the ABC noise hasn’t returned I’m under no illusion that it’s fixed due to the battery but the humming noise does seem to be coming from the rear of the car.

Only time will tell but I am expecting the noise to return with or without fault codes in which case the pulsation damper will be changed.
Cheeky engine pic and a photo of the damper seems to good to not try it myself I’m sure mr @alexanderfoti will give me a few pointer when and if i get the dampener. IMG_3184.jpeg IMG_3185.jpeg
 

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Pulsation dampener noise can be tricky to diagnose and locate. Any noise due to hydraulic pressure induced vibration has a tendency to travel and with the dampener mounted to the pump it's not as obvious due to the lengths of flexible hose and engine vibration as was on the C215.
On my C216 failure exhibited itself as what sounded like a gearbox bearing failing on overrun.

Having driven ABC equipped C215, C216 and now C217 I've come to the conclusion that its a lot more reliable than suggested on pre-2000 cars.
I live by the following mantra: if the system shows no leaks, it responds evenly and promptly to ride height change commands and the pump gives out good pressure don't worry. I have driven around 180,000 miles on ABC equipped cars. Each generation is more reliable than the last. The 215 had 2 pumps, one pulsation dampener, a rear pressure line and the all ride height sensors replaced. The 216 just the pulsation dampener and all ride height sensors replaced. I never had to replace a strut on the 215 or the 216. I've only had the 217 for 12 months and so am not going to comment, although a strut was replaced prior to purchase by MB Southend.

In my experience, seized ride height sensors are the most common item replaced (not sure if they are the same on the C217 as on the C215 & C216).
On the hydraulic side, pulsation dampener seems to die first, it works a lot harder than the accumulators. The pulsation dampener is used to even out the hydraulic pressure peaks and dips that are inherently introduced by the pump design. The accumulators are to supply and absorb larger volume changes in fluid volume demanded by suspension strut actuation. All are relatively easy to replace and are cheaper than struts and pump.

I prefer to have the system flushed when replacing a failed accumulator or dampener as a preventative measure in case it has introduced any rubber, diaphragm, debris to the system.

I usually get a full fluid and filter change every 3 years or 30,000 miles whichever is soonest.

Once a month I cycle the ride height up and down a dozen times to test the system, attempt to flush fresh oil into the struts and to ensure that moving parts are free of accumulated grime.
 
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Dean Fletcher

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Pulsation dampener noise can be tricky to diagnose and locate. Any noise due to hydraulic pressure induced vibration has a tendency to travel and with the dampener mounted to the pump it's not as obvious due to the lengths of flexible hose and engine vibration as was on the C215.
On my C216 failure exhibited itself as what sounded like a gearbox bearing failing on overrun.

Having driven ABC equipped C215, C216 and now C217 I've come to the conclusion that its a lot more reliable than suggested on pre-2000 cars.
I live by the following mantra: if the system shows no leaks, it responds evenly and promptly to ride height change commands and the pump gives out good pressure don't worry. I have driven around 180,000 miles on ABC equipped cars. Each generation is more reliable than the last. The 215 had 2 pumps, one pulsation dampener, a rear pressure line and the all ride height sensors replaced. The 216 just the pulsation dampener and all ride height sensors replaced. I never had to replace a strut on the 215 or the 216. I've only had the 217 for 12 months and so am not going to comment, although a strut was replaced prior to purchase by MB Southend.

In my experience, seized ride height sensors are the most common item replaced (not sure if they are the same on the C217 as on the C215 & C216).
On the hydraulic side, pulsation dampener seems to die first, it works a lot harder than the accumulators. The pulsation dampener is used to even out the hydraulic pressure peaks and dips that are inherently introduced by the pump design. The accumulators are to supply and absorb larger volume changes in fluid volume demanded by suspension strut actuation. All are relatively easy to replace and are cheaper than struts and pump.

I prefer to have the system flushed when replacing a failed accumulator or dampener as a preventative measure in case it has introduced any rubber, diaphragm, debris to the system.

I usually get a full fluid and filter change every 3 years or 30,000 miles whichever is soonest.

Once a month I cycle the ride height up and down a dozen times to test the system, attempt to flush fresh oil into the struts and to ensure that moving parts are free of accumulated grime.
Iv been adjusting ride height on every trip out. Seems to work a treat.
Soon as the snow and cold weather buggers off I’ll be out and about see how it preforms. Last 2 trips no noise
 
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Dean Fletcher

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UPDATE
Took the car out again today and no noise? That’s the 4th time out with no noise.
Could it be possible the dodgy voltage converter was not powering something and causing a noise.
God knows……..
 

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UPDATE
Took the car out again today and no noise? That’s the 4th time out with no noise.
Could it be possible the dodgy voltage converter was not powering something and causing a noise.
God knows……..
Interesting.
I wouldn't worry for now.
In my experience ABC issues normally show themselves when the system is hot and has been worked.
 
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Dean Fletcher

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Interesting.
I wouldn't worry for now.
In my experience ABC issues normally show themselves when the system is hot and has been worked.
as of this point right now, I can't find fault with the car, looooooong may it last, famous last words.
 
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Dean Fletcher

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Famous last words lasted long :p:p
Drove to Manchester airport on Tuesday car was absolutely fine no noise then drove it back last night it was growling like a t£@t.
There’s a reason for this, my home is 3 minutes from the M6 jun 39, Tuesday I got on the motorway and sat there happily ticking along at 70mph parked up all good.
Returned to the car was it rush hour traffic a lot of speed then braking which is obviously is a lot of adjustment on the ABC. The growling noise was present so I turned the radio up and stopped at forton services set the car on the highest setting and went for a coffee. Expecting to come back to a leaning or flat car 30 mins later and nope the car was still as high as I left it.
I lowered is and drove off with no noise again probably because I went straight on the motorway and the pump doesn’t have to work as hard. Perhaps it stiffens up when you go a certain speed I don’t know.
So I’m about to buy a new pulsation damper £264 from MB Birmingham.
As far as I’m aware you just need to undo the bracket above on the pump, undo the damper and replace but making sure everything is immaculately clean while doing so. The torque it up to the correct spec.
Am I being naive in thinking this is it?
Any other pointers or tips is appreciated.

Part number A0004660400
 

brandwooddixon

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I believe that on the 217, the pulsation dampener screws directly into the pump. They normally have a suitable hexagonal section on the threaded tube closest to the main body of the dampener for a spanner, whether you can usefully get fit one onto it is another matter, although on the 217 it's easier to access than on some cars.
Looking at your picture there's a nut shaped piece on the back and some pipework that may restrict access.

Clean the area between the dampener and the pump thoroughly before attempting any work.
Allow the car to sit for 10 minutes after driving before working on the system, this will allow the system pressure to drop to safe levels.
Be cautious with the sealing ring and that it fits correctly.
Pulsation dampener to pump torque is 45 Nm.
Best get a bottle of fluid just in case you need to top up the reservoir.
 
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Dean Fletcher

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I believe that on the 217, the pulsation dampener screws directly into the pump. They normally have a suitable hexagonal section on the threaded tube closest to the main body of the dampener for a spanner, whether you can usefully get fit one onto it is another matter, although on the 217 it's easier to access than on some cars.
Looking at your picture there's a nut shaped piece on the back and some pipework that may restrict access.

Clean the area between the dampener and the pump thoroughly before attempting any work.
Allow the car to sit for 10 minutes after driving before working on the system, this will allow the system pressure to drop to safe levels.
Be cautious with the sealing ring and that it fits correctly.
Pulsation dampener to pump torque is 45 Nm.
Best get a bottle of fluid just in case you need to top up the reservoir.
Thanks, managed to find the WIS manual for the job.
couple bracket bolts on the top surrounding the pump. access seems to be good and should be able to get a spanner to the nut on the end of the damper.
I watched a video where brake cleaner was used around the end of the damper to get it spotless before removing.
is bleeding the system required as stated in the manual?


Screenshot 2025-02-03 at 19.05.04.png
 

brandwooddixon

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For accumulators, including the dampener, just exercise the ride height a dozen times, keeping tabs on the fluid level in between. The dampener doesn't take much fluid as the accumulators but you'll likely need to top up the reservoir.
 

SL63 Mark

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Is it a pulsation "dampener" or damper ? Minor point, I know. I've always called it a pulsation damper. Is "dampener" a word ? WIS seems to call it a "damper", so did the MB techs I spoke to.
 
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Dean Fletcher

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Is it a pulsation "dampener" or damper ? Minor point, I know. I've always called it a pulsation damper. Is "dampener" a word ? WIS seems to call it a "damper", so did the MB techs I spoke to.
God knows i switch between the two.
Damper seems to be my main description.
Quick Look online and Damper seems to be it ??
 

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