ABS and ESP unavailable

[Botus]

running costs up to £4:16 a mile what a brilliant car, a taxi costs much less

 

[alexanderfoti]

running costs up to £4:16 a mile what a brilliant car, a taxi costs much less

Mine is 98ppm at the moment

 

[alexanderfoti]

4 new sensors fitted today... the originals almost look like new

not sure which end is which, or which was left and right as I didn't put them on

the longer ones, part number A221 540 0317 readings were
373 k ohm and 402 k ohm

of the two short ones, part number A221 540 0117 readings were
393 k ohm and 390 k ohm


part numbers they were replaced with was
A221 905 7100 (front)
A221 905 6000 (rear)

rather perversely I see in USA, same fronts at 65 dollars ! and
A221-905-73-00-80 / Remanufactured Rpm, listed for the rears


I will test mine when I get them off, I have all 4 so should just change them. Let me know if that sorts your issue or if its still present.

 

[Botus]

the coil packs confuse me....

I got my posh auto ranging meter out and tried to get sensible readings of the two that had been on the car...
one broke, one OK

each time to start with you can't get any continuity reading across any pins no matter how you try. This is exact same issue I had with the two later ones I bought using my cheap nasty meter ???

after 10 minutes things magically start to get readings off two of the four pins... but the numbers didn't make sense and one day to the next and I struggled to get similar results...


today got a reading totally different to before straight away
15.20 m ohm on the broken one
16.45 m ohm on the good one

starting with the curved end of the multiplug, those numbers are the only continuity I can get... on the two left most pins of the four

 

[Botus]

Something has just caused the same module on my k1300 to go mental as I said earlier, with
2786 - Front-wheel speed from ABS implausible
if I turn off traction control the bike comes out of horrendous limp mode

dealer finally got a slot to look at this... on my later bike made Oct 2009 they agreed front sensor was giving silly reading and swapped it out at £134 for the part, 3 hours later on my way with a new bunch of software on 3 modules, including the engine map...

for 200 metres the new map felt so much smoother... then in 3rd, around 3500 rpm and virtually no throttle, traction control came in. thought no way... was about to turn back thought maybe something on the road keep going.... yep cut in, lights on dash, did a u turn back to the garage and it was almost un-ridable. Tech couldn't believe it went for a ride himself, took back in workshop 3 hours later I'm like what's happening.... he still on it, oh he's got the back wheel out and is playing with something....

Turns out the bike was happy with the readings to operate the ABS "safely" but for the traction control all the bike cared about was each reading both ends made sense and were aligned.... it then sends one signal to the engine ECU to say all good keep going. Except the rear was throwing silly data now and then, which the bike recognised as loss of traction. But as it only receives one signal to engine ECU it just flags the first on the list as a fault... Which is the front even though the back was the one playing up.

In the end I got 2 new sensors, a remap, new central chassis electronics update and new instrument cluster software... under warranty. Rides much nicer now, which is a miracle result as I'd gone 20 miles to drop the bike off and it hadn't missed a beat all the way there, and I thought they were going to say no fault found, go away !!!

 

[Submariner1]

4 new sensors fitted today... the originals almost look like new

not sure which end is which, or which was left and right as I didn't put them on

the longer ones, part number A221 540 0317 readings were
373 k ohm and 402 k ohm

of the two short ones, part number A221 540 0117 readings were
393 k ohm and 390 k ohm


part numbers they were replaced with was
A221 905 7100 (front)
A221 905 6000 (rear)

rather perversely I see in USA, same fronts at 65 dollars ! and
A221-905-73-00-80 / Remanufactured Rpm, listed for the rears


Hi Botus
Did replacing all 4 sensirs, sort your abs esp issues out?
Hope so for your sake

 

[Botus]

thanks, got other issues with seized pistons in front calipers that's more of a concern....

sensors was more a precautionary measure as you guys having issues and that I'd had park brake odd twice and esp light once in last 4 weeks, the different readings on the longer ones (which on parts drawing and numbers must be the fronts.... ) suggests on the way out so worth doing (I hope)

garage seemed to think park brake release is may be related to other stuff.... I don't know what gives it the signal to release as u drive away, it worked yesterday OK

 

[Submariner1]

thanks, got other issues with seized pistons in front calipers that's more of a concern....

sensors was more a precautionary measure as you guys having issues and that I'd had park brake odd twice and esp light once in last 4 weeks, the different readings on the longer ones (which on parts drawing and numbers must be the fronts.... ) suggests on the way out so worth doing (I hope)

garage seemed to think park brake release is may be related to other stuff.... I don't know what gives it the signal to release as u drive away, it worked yesterday OK

Very sorry to hear of your other issues.
Just a Thought .. the top mechanic at MD said one of the reasons these esp sensors blow out can be overhearing, even keeping a fair wedge of pad on the discs helps reduce heat transmitted to the sensors.
So if your brake pistons were siezed ... changing the sensors might prevent later issues .. so not all wasted.

Apparrently you can get the pistons and seals for the fronts.
But having gone to the hassle of changing a split boot cover.
If I had to do this I think I would just send them off for refurbishment.

You then know they are all 100% and come back powdercaoted etc.

A few people have found good places and the prices were not astro!

The new MB calipers are for me pretty pricey!

I would look for so,eone who used genuine brembo parts.

 

[Botus]

the point about heat is very interesting... Its the front calipers and the front sensors !!

I did have that brake fluid temp high code stored recently. A bit odd as to me the brakes hardly drag enough to get slightly warm let alone hot... And the other point would be every day in Germany you'd need to fit new sensors on one of these things …. try doing over 130 mph there and every 5 seconds some knob pulls out doing 55 and everyone seems to thing that's acceptable driving over there...

they must get through discs and pads in 10k miles at best

 

[alexanderfoti]

I'm sure it's heat related. Mine only gives the errors after stopping from speed and letting it heat soak.

 

[Botus]

I wonder if the later design/part numbers are less likely to have issues?

 

[Rich2166]

Hi Alex
Your issue sounds slightly different in my msg. Cleared after driving 15ft.
But if you cleaned the sensors and reluctor rings and its still there, barring low voltage which I am sure you have already checked.

It might be worth resetting the EPB.
I know, I know, wtf has the EPB got to do with and abs - esp issues.
Note mine also had 3 sensor fault codes advising a viz inspection.

Only takes 5 mins and seems to have cured mine. (Far too early days, but whereas I got this Msg. On EVERY start!
No messages since last Friday.

To Reset:
Get rid of the message (by driving left and right )
Stop put in N .. dont press brake firmly to get HOLD. Stop engine (the EPB is not applied).

Switch Ign. Back on
Then press EPB handle for a few seconds .. you see the EPB red icon light.
Switch off engine.
Restart hopefully with EPB icon lit.
Pull EPB Handle for > 12 seconds.
Turn off engine.

Restart and no more msg.

Sounds crazy
... but N47-5 is my ESP controller, and its linked to A13 my EPB switch, via the CGW N93.
It also goes throught the front and rear SAMs (note at various times I could get fault codes, saying Sensor readings from front axle, then later the rear axle were implausible).
View attachment 42967

Will this work on other Mercedes models, mine is a W221 S350?

I did clean the sensors and the rings.
Well when I say cleaned the rings ... I rolled up lint free cloth sprayed a bit of brake cleaner on it . And pushed it into the sensor hole and rotated the wheel. Dirty grey/black slightly greasy chalky stuff came out . Did this till I could see what looked like ground grey steel, with a sort of regular pattern on it ... mine didnt have the classic deep cogs. .....
This may have been totally the wrong way to do it? And took ages .. a truly hateful job!

But I assume its a hell of a lot cleaner in there, than before .. and seems to work.
Note this cleaning in its own, did Not stop my messages.

 

[Botus]

this thread is rather old...

My brakes where getting hot 7 out of 8 pistons in the front calipers were seized completely solid (good work for a 50k mile car that has been cherished) we should learn to appreciate quite how well they developed these cars ...to empty your wallet.

It took me 3 hrs to remove the pads on one side, just to find the pistons won't move at all for anybody, 6 hours later I didn't spend long trying on the other side - MB grangemouth do great deals on refurbed calipers and their price on genuine pads and discs are shocking (in a good way)

We then found here with 6 owners in the space of 6 months (and I see the same years on, with newer cars on a big USA forum) ALL the W221 ABS sensors die to a timetable Mercedes carefully developed...

Not sure the exact reason, but STAR tell you to always do both on the same axel at the same time. For a rusty bit of copper wire built to a quality standard even China would frown over, the price is shocking (in a very bad way)

 

[Rich2166]

this thread is rather old...

My brakes where getting hot 7 out of 8 pistons in the front calipers were seized completely solid (good work for a 50k mile car that has been cherished) we should learn to appreciate quite how well they developed these cars ...to empty your wallet.

It took me 3 hrs to remove the pads on one side, just to find the pistons won't move at all for anybody, 6 hours later I didn't spend long trying on the other side - MB grangemouth do great deals on refurbed calipers and their price on genuine pads and discs are shocking (in a good way)

We then found here with 6 owners in the space of 6 months (and I see the same years on, with newer cars on a big USA forum) ALL the W221 ABS sensors die to a timetable Mercedes carefully developed...

Not sure the exact reason, but STAR tell you to always do both on the same axel at the same time. For a rusty bit of copper wire built to a quality standard even China would frown over, the price is shocking (in a very bad way)

Thank you Botus, It’s nice to own a Mercedes but boy owners get shafted

 

[Rich2166]

Sorry for you its defo an infectious desease!
Ta Da

No doubt shortly to be accompanied by these two cycling repetatively
View attachment 43053 View attachment 43054
And I dont even have run flats!

Btw Botus Mobilo think they have found the fault.
View attachment 43056
A corroded earth to the ABR (ESP) controller.
Low loading it to Dealer tomorrow ... ref cant undo nut on body stud ... locked solid!

If I wasnt so ****ed off I would have grabbed a jump start lead, and connected it to the main earth point lol


Just thinking how many earth points like this there must be that could give me future fun and games

Considering the price of the car, they could have used gold plated contacts for the brakes, ABC and Comand units or at least the exposed connections.

Interesting post, before you found the bad earth did you think you had a wheel speed sensor issue? have the same messages on my dash, I’ve just purchased a new wheel speed sensor today, however after reading your post I wonder whether I may have the same earth issue, or though it’s probably unlikely.

What are your thoughts?