Alarm Siren on 98 CLK 230K

[Jon Browne]

Does anybody know where the siren is located. I think it needs to be replaced looking at another thread but can't tel where it actually is.

 

[television]

I can send you a paper on this. Pop up your email address for a few mins and you can delete it in edit when I say

 

[Jon Browne]

Thanks Malcolm

 

[television]

Thanks Malcolm

jxxxxxxxxxxe@hotmail.co.uk

Paper sent, go back to your last post and go to edit and remove address

I cannot say if the details are the same for a RHD car but it should be in that corner,,if not the other side in the same place

 

[Jon Browne]

Thanks for that. Do you know if they repairable or not.

 

[television]

Thanks for that. Do you know if they repairable or not.

Sorry I have no idea on that one

 

[bigasotonuk]

Hi,
Depending on the alarm system fitted it may just utilise a normal car horn. If its like my AMG, I tried to take it apart but failled quite dismally as though all the screws were removed it would not budge, I ended up replacing it for a new one for a shade under £50 from MB, it was secured to the car by a single T30 screw (Security type).

 

[jamesmc]

Just out of interest. Was this a standard fit or an option? Same car (ish).

 

[television]

Just out of interest. Was this a standard fit or an option? Same car (ish).

This is a standard fit James

 

[jamesmc]

OK..... Malcom

Call me an idiot. How can I test the alarm system is functional?

230k Cabriolet

 

[bigasotonuk]

Hi,
The alarms on these vehicles I believe were genuine MB alarms fitted from the factory and depending on spec either had a battery back-up alarm siren or utilised an additional car horn as the alarm siren.

 

[jimsinessex]

OK..... Malcom

Call me an idiot. How can I test the alarm system is functional?

230k Cabriolet

Hi James,

Sit in the car with engine off, lock it with the remote control, then move about a bit, the alarm should sound. Not sure if this applies to a cabriolet.

Or, unlock the car with mechanical key, the alarm will sound. It is well worth exercising the mechanical key once a year in both the door lock and the boot lock so you know which way to turn it and also stop it seizing. Remember, when you do need to get into the car in an emergency (e.g. flat battery in key) then manual will probably be locked in the car!!!!!

Yes, I know you have a soft top but less hassle to use the key if it is up.

Jim

 

[television]

Hi James,


Or, unlock the car with mechanical key, the alarm will sound. It is well worth exercising the mechanical key once a year in both the door lock and the boot lock so you know which way to turn it and also stop it seizing. Remember, when you do need to get into the car in an emergency (e.g. flat battery in key) then manual will probably be locked in the car!!!!!

Yes, I know you have a soft top but less hassle to use the key if it is up.

Jim

If only owner would spray some silicon( and not WD40) into the locks, including the boot, we would not get all of the post "help my key will not turn."

There are these little plastic inserts from MB and they cost 50p each, you can leave them black or spray to suit the car, and they keep all of the dirt and salty water out.

 

[bigasotonuk]

I posted the pt. no. for this lock plug not so long ago, I have them fitted to all the external locks on both my C class's.
If any one wants the number for this lock plug PM me.

 

[jamesmc]

Cheers Jim & others

Carried out some tests. The Alarm activates when using the key to manually open the door but no action when I'm in the car with the doors locked by remote keyfob. Sat there for a few minutes in case there was a delay before full activation but still no joy. I suspect that lack of activation inside the car is a normal (older) cabriolet feature more than anything.

When the alarm activates all flashers go at a high rate of knots (faster than normal 4 way flashers) but no audible siren at all
Doing some homework leads me to believe that there should be a siren, with a battery backup unit fitted, under the bonnet on the left side forward chassis frame. I have a connector there with nothing attached and an ominous looking space where the siren should be so I suspect that for some reason it has been removed in the life of the car. Next I will check the suspect looking connector to see if there is an intermittent 12VDC voltage popping up when the alarm is going. As it is my mission in life (as far as the car is concerned) to bring it up to the best spec possible I will hunt down a unit to fit and get the system working as MB intended.

The boot lock was seized from the day I picked up the car and, despite spraying with a realising agent and silicone spray, it still is. Once the weather improves (it rains here sometimes you know!) I will remove it and work on it until it starts to work again with the key.

Incidentally if you have seized boot lock and a flat battery on a CLK, but need to get into the boot, there is a quick work around to get the boot open. Unlock the drivers door manually, pop the bonnet and apply power via jump leads to the heavy duty +ve connection just forward of the main fuse/relay box. You need to pop a small plastic cover to gain access to the positive connector. Connect the -ve to any section of nearby bare metal.
Once the power is restored you can pop the boot from inside the cab by using the remote boot release on the dash.

best regards
James Mc

 

[jimsinessex]

I posted the pt. no. for this lock plug not so long ago, I have them fitted to all the external locks on both my C class's.
If any one wants the number for this lock plug PM me.

I hunted down Andy's post for the part number and it is A210 766 00 56

On my W209 CLK there was no plug fitted to the drivers door lock as new and the boot lock has now been tucked under the lip of the boot where it collects all the road dirt thrown up at the rear of the car so well worth fitting a cover there as well.

Jim