Another “Active Lane Keeping Assist Inoperative” query

[rorywquin]

I recently had this come up

“Active Lane Keeping Assist Inoperative”
“Active Blind Spot Assist Inoperative"

It happend a few years ago and a switch off and restart fixed it. However the warnings now aways appear after a few miles.

I’ve tried disabling it all and re-enabling it - no luck.

The distronic and self steering are still fully functional - I tested them for about 5 miles on a motorway yesterday evening so, ruling out some of the sensors being a problem.

Batteries should be fine. The car is always hooked to a CTEK when it stands for long periods.

It is booked for a service in a month but hopefully I can find a simple fix before then.

We are planning a short 2 night trip next week and I’m concerned that this may be a sign of bigger problem and don’t want to be stuck at the side of the road (in-spite of the fact that I have Mobilo).

 

[mioba]

You simply need to get the codes read.
After years on the forum and realising cars get more complicated I got an icarsoft v3.
I am handy and it has paid for itself already

 

[rorywquin]

You simply need to get the codes read.
After years on the forum and realising cars get more complicated I got an icarsoft v3.
I am handy and it has paid for itself already

Thanks. I have considered that however:

I had these warnings flash up about 4 years ago so have followed postings related to it & I’ve also done some research and found that many people with this issue have had the “codes read” and it does not show up anything.

The other “simple solution” is to buy a new battery, with no guarantee that it will solve the problem.

 

[rorywquin]

Just put the test meter on the battery posts ~ 12.4 v.

I’d had the car on the CTEK all week. Did a long run yesterday and about 30 minutes into the drive the warnings popped up.

Battery now suspect #1.

On charge again and will check V when fully charged.

 

[Blobcat]

12.4 is good

 

[rorywquin]

12.4 is good

Oh - I thought that AGM had to be about 12.9/13 .

Suspect #1 eliminated.

 

[Blobcat]

Oh - I thought that AGM had to be about 12.9/13 . I’d hoped my problem was solved

With AGM I'd get the cell covers off and top them up - bit of work with a knife to get the stickers off the top and a screwdriver to undo them but worth it

 

[V6Matty]

At a guess I’d say it’s a wire that’s loose to one of the radars in the front or rear bumper, I think mine had something similar, a good clean of the connectors and hasn’t done it since thankfully.

 

[rorywquin]

At a guess I’d say it’s a wire that’s loose to one of the radars in the front or rear bumper, I think mine had something similar, a good clean of the connectors and hasn’t done it since thankfully.

I’ll have to look. But, low milage 19,000 miles , 5 years old but always lived in a garage etc.........

 

[V6Matty]

I’ll have to look. But, low milage 19,000 miles , 5 years old but always lived in a garage etc.........

Probably still possible, the one in the rear bumper does get a lot of water and crud on it from the rear wheels

 

[Blobcat]

I’ll have to look. But, low milage 19,000 miles , 5 years old but always lived in a garage etc.........

Mouse eaten…

 

[rorywquin]

Mouse eaten…

I have trapped a few of the blighters there.

 

[Blobcat]

I have trapped a few of the blighters there.

Used to have one living in the “V” of the cams on an XJ6… it would jump out every morning when the car was driven out and back in for a nice warm bed at night…
Only discovered it when investigating why the under bonnet insulation was coming away. Put a trap in place of its bed and that was the end of that.

 

[EmilysDad]

..... Put a trap in place of its bed and that was the end of that.

 

[rorywquin]

Had my battery tested by a Varta recommend workshop and they say it is fine. However I wonder if it is at the bottom end of the healthy range and the systems in these cars need more.

If I leave the car on charge and then drive it, there is no warning for about 30 minutes. Alternator is pushing out +14v while driving (per the V meter in the car) so one of the batteries is back on my suspect list.

 

[ajlsl600]

You simply need to get the codes read.
After years on the forum and realising cars get more complicated I got an icarsoft v3.
I am handy and it has paid for itself already

Me 2.....

 

[rorywquin]

New cranking battery and aux battery is fine (showing 12.8V after parking the car and measuring 12 hours later).

Issue is intermittent and only becomes “inoperative” after about 30 minutes of driving. Park the car for a few hours and it is all working again.

Any thoughts please? Faulty relay?

I’d get one of those Icarsoft units if someone could explain how I could drill down to the problem.