Anyone recommend waxoyling

[Scop]

Has anyone out there had their car professionally waxoyled ? I could get mine done for around £450. Judging by the price of a pair new wings it looks like it could be good value. I'm thinking of getting mine done while its rust free.

 

[Silver Arrow]

I have mine professionally waxoyled.
My other toys too. The old Range Rover gets old engine oil once a year, but you need to leave it in a field for a week afterwards, or outside somebodys house you don't like!
I did my Spitfire Mk2 when I got it new in 1966, but the stuff was called dynitrol then. It is still in pristine condition.

 

[230K]

Hi

I would recommend it but not at that money, a gallon of the stuff is about £20, a power wash and a days work would have all the vunerable areas done.

230K

 

[Myros]

DIY once a year

for 20 years at that price. I think the argument is all but one-sided really. If you clean the sprayer properly, you can use it year on year. You'll need ramps or a pit to do it justice though.

 

[steveb2]

I have had my 1977 MGB Waxoiled and my old Range Rover,Highly recommend it!Don't pay that price though,far to high....I can recommend someone if you are in the South,who is very good,and quite cheap.

Steve

 

[stever]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a garage to waxoyl my w123 in the south-west or north-west? £450 seems a bit steep to me.

 

[Blobcat]

Try and keep the Waxoyl as warm as possible. It is murder trying to apply it when its cold. I would recommend you do it yourself if you can as get a good idea of the state of play with your car and a better understanding generally of your vehicle once you start poking around underneath it.

 

[clive williams]

I have mine professionally waxoyled.
My other toys too. The old Range Rover gets old engine oil once a year, but you need to leave it in a field for a week afterwards, or outside somebodys house you don't like!
I did my Spitfire Mk2 when I got it new in 1966, but the stuff was called dynitrol then. It is still in pristine condition.

I've still got a can of waxoyl from when I used it in the doors of my old Rangey to slow down (its stopped I think) the electrolytic corrosion between the aluminium outer door face and the steel inner.

I've also got a pristine Alfa Romeo GTV6 1984 vintage, which had been factory treated to the then new rust proofing process when Fiat took over and was Dynitrol treated as well by the dealer as part of his PDI. Dynitrol was reknown then as being the best of all the treatment - waxoyl being the only one to have carried over from that time.

The GTV6 is in storage now but I still yearn to hear that V6 on full song and one of these days I will roll it out again.

Clive

500E
E320CDIT210

 

[madf]

I find Dinitrol is better penetrating and less likely to be washed off by water than Waxoyl. I believe Car Mechanics tested them and and confirmed this.

Having said that Waxoyl is more readily available. As I have a pit, I immerse my 5 litre can of Waxoyl in hot water (or leave in the sun) to make less viscous, pour some into a plastic baisin (old microwaveable pudding baisins are ideal and apply by brush to externals and spray into chassis rails if the car has not been wax injected from new.

We kept a 1978 Mini Estate for 15 years with no welding that way. I can assure you it still rusted:-(.

You need overalls, a hat and lots of rags to mop up the drips and it is of course essential to shield all brake disks and calipers, and do not cover the catalyst or you will have a fire)
Both Waxoyl and Dinitrol are inflammable so no smoking etc..

I keep a brush especially for the prupose and thin with White Spirit when spraying in winter otherwise it congeals in contact with cold metal.

Of course the car should be dry and free from all mud: so a good hosing of all wheelarches at least 2 days before to remove mud etc is essential and to leave time to dry (or drive 5 miles!)

 

[Silver Arrow]

" --at least 2 days before to remove mud etc is essential and to leave time to dry (or drive 5 miles!)"

The chap who does mine insists that it should be clean, and dry for about 10 days before treatment to avoid any encapsulation of moisture.