ATF, How to change??

Silver_Star

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If you look on the DIY guide on mb club it shows a picture of the improvised drain tool. It is basically an old banjo bolt with bit of hose attached.

There isn't any need to use one however. On the N/S of the bell housing you will see 2 pipes - One is flow and return.....they have straight coupling unions on and are very easy to open; I opened one put it in a clear 5ltr container propped up on some bricks started the engine and stopped once the ATF coming out the line was fresh red ATF.
 

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OK next question if i run the starter, where is the fuse (number and location would be helpful) and will i see any errors after?
You need to check your fuse chart. On mine (203 C240) the pump fuse is in the boot, LH side, either the 2nd or third one down, but this info shows on your fuse chart so do check.

No errors will show after refitting the fuse.
 
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V6Matty

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thanks to all, will spend some time this weekend and see where everything is and maybe locate an old banjo bolt (must have some somewhere in the shed). does seem and easy enough process and after looking at the DIY from Miffy i feel a little more confident, same me a few pennys instead of getting it done during the service.
 

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thanks to all, will spend some time this weekend and see where everything is and maybe locate an old banjo bolt (must have some somewhere in the shed). does seem and easy enough process and after looking at the DIY from Miffy i feel a little more confident, same me a few pennys instead of getting it done during the service.

If you have the car jacked up to change the ATF you may as well do the service, it will save you even more ;)
 
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V6Matty

V6Matty

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If you have the car jacked up to change the ATF you may as well do the service, it will save you even more ;)

i know, i was going to get a load of things done at the same time, so normal service, tires changed (getting new ones), rattle on NS front looked at and was going to ask him to do the ATF but may do that myself, although for the sake of about 2 hours more labour i may not do it.
 

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BTW, taking the banjo off the oil cooler pipe to drain the TC is in a WIS document so its standard practice. NOTE, WIS advises to Start the engine and drain the atf via a hose into a bucket. Stop after 3 liters, pour in 3 liters and repeat twice to flush.
 

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BTW, taking the banjo off the oil cooler pipe to drain the TC is in a WIS document so its standard practice. NOTE, WIS advises to Start the engine and drain the atf via a hose into a bucket. Stop after 3 liters, pour in 3 liters and repeat twice to flush.

I will have a look at that IF I ever manage to work out WIS..
Then I shall exclaim Gee WIS:)
 

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BTW, taking the banjo off the oil cooler pipe to drain the TC is in a WIS document so its standard practice. NOTE, WIS advises to Start the engine and drain the atf via a hose into a bucket. Stop after 3 liters, pour in 3 liters and repeat twice to flush.
The downside is an additional 6 litres of ATF to flush the system and at £12 a litre.......£72 down the drain, I will stick to removing the banjo pipes and cranking to get it all out !!;)

It would perhaps be cheaper to do a pre oil change with cheap ATF, then do another an hour later after a short drive with the real Mercedes ATF ?
 
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oigle

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The downside is an additional 6 litres of ATF to flush the system and at £12 a litre.......£72 down the drain, I will stick to removing the banjo pipes and cranking to get it all out !!;)

It would perhaps be cheaper to do a pre oil change with cheap ATF, then do another an hour later after a short drive with the real Mercedes ATF ?

Whichever way you do it (and I see no benefit at all in cranking), you only need to run 5 litres extra through it to remove 90+% of the old fluid. The torque converter holds around 4.5 litres and the cooler and lines hold less than .5litre, so why pump more or less?
If you don't want to bother getting rid of all the old stuff, just change the fluid in the sump.
Cheap insurance anyway for a multi thousand dollar gearbox.
 

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