My issue with a lot of rust converters is they then form a barrier after reacting making subsequent coatings containing either cathodic or rust inhibitor protection less effective. I have had great results wit bilt hamber hydate 80 though. Nowadays for underbody rust stalling I lean towards 45% phosphoric acid (wear safety goggles to make damn sure it doesn't go in your eyes), perhaps a few applications depending how deep the pitting is then apply electrox zinc primer X 2 coats. if I'm feeling lazy or the area is generally oily or im in a rush I skip the primer and go straight on with bilt hamber dynax S50 watered down 25% with white sprit. Then a couple of coats of neat S50 or Dynax UB depending on how much stone impact there's likely to be. I've never had any significant recurrence with this especially if its kept topped up with dynax.
But it depends on the location of the rust . Cut it out is the only cure for tin worm . But if you talking about surface rust you can stop it .Use a emery cloth to get down to shiny bear metal and try and remove as much pitting as you can. I was luck in the uk you can get Metalmorphosis from Range Riover Club .The club members use it to rebild the old LandRovers .I have used it and it works well .I would go for a good rust converter .
I used to use a rust convertor in NZ that wasn't water based, I can't really understand why water based rust preventers are the be all and end all? They just don't work! I have coated my TR7 V8 with this water based product as per the instructions and I can show you rusty surfaces' showing through whether I have painted over top of the product or not. The non water based product I used in New Zealand when I had my panel shop are still not showing any rust as the cars I restored over 25 years ago are still owned by my old customers who have kept in touch with me.
My understanding is air, water equals rust on steel. 90% of rust starts from the unpainted internal steel parts.
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