Bleed ABS unit with STAR?

[Conor]

Hello

I just changed the rear lines on my S212 and then proceeded to bleed the lines with two man method. I got a nice bit of air out the rears.

I bled the fronts too and didn't get much air, but at times, a load of white milkshake looking fluid came out.. I think the reservoir ran dry.

I think the flow is much higher on the fronts than rear so I was used to the level going down slowly.

I can't get a brake pedal at all now.

Since then, I have bled the lines on the ABS unit and also the MC bleed screw.

Still nothing. So I then went for my Gunton EZ bleed as I read it needs to be bled under pressure..(one man method) .. and bled the system again.

A nice bit more air came out the rears..

Questions:

Am I doing this right.. I just go around with pressure bleeding until everything runs clear.

Do I need to actuate the ABS with STAR? I searched though the system and cannot find an ABS option anywhere..any ideas welcome.

Also.. I read somewhere that when air entered the ABS system you need to pressure bleed but also pump the pedal at the same time.

Any input on this is much appreciated.

 

[Conor]

..Ok, quick update.

I couldn't find the bleed function in STAR, so plugged in a "Launch" system to try that.. it said that function wasn't available for my car..

So I guess it's just manual bleed until everything is clear. I will reaquaint myself with the WIS doc now and see if I missed anything.

Good job I had a bunch of DOT4 there lol..

 

[Conor]

So.. quick update on this for future people.

Aftering trying a Gunson EzBleed type setup, and a vacuum bleeder.. and 2 person method I still had no pedal.

I was advised that the system needed to be bled and pressurised to 2 bar.. which was confusing, because I had done that with my EzBleed .. it clearly wasn't enough pressure.

So today I went and bought myself a Sealey VS820 which did the job nicely.

I went around the 4 corners as per usual.. no air released.. but when I went to the pedal it was hard. Like magic.

I can strongly recommend that Sealey product, as out of all 4 methods, this was less faff. I would recommend buying the Hilka product in Screwfix as it's the same thing, but cheaper.

 

[M80]

Many thanks for that Conor, I'm a future person.

I've used the Eezibleed for years and never been really happy with it.
I've replaced the cap with MB OEM and adapted, as the original was so poor.
Hoses weren't long enough to site the container somewhere secure.
I've had issues bleeding rears, and also getting a good solid pedal.

I have been aiming to do the Viano 'again' as it was never as I would hope for.
I've been reluctant to replace the fluid on the 211 as the brakes, and pedal, are a pleasure, and I would hate to reduce that.

So on your recommend I've ordered the Sealey, but a fair bit cheaper

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Viano 1st, then I'll hopefully report back the same success as you.

 

[M80]

You've done me a good turn there Conor.
The kit is well made and far superior and easier to use than the Eezibleed.

The 639 had a chewed nipple, easily replaced with the wheel off, and of course using this kit a breeze to bleed afterwards.

I've just done the 211, off trolley jacks.
2 jacks, each axle high in turn, and on my back to crack the nipples (once the kit is connected and pressurised of course). Done between rain showers all completed in less than 1 hour.

A couple of points worth a mention, imo.
On 1st use I connected the air line fitting to the supplied cap.
It latched and held, pressured up there were no leaks. But it hadn't gone fully home, even though it looked good.
The result was that I cracked nipples and fluid exchanged with air, looking like it was bleeding, but badly. The union hadn't allowed for the new fluid to pass at the cap, so all I was doing was introducing air to the calipers I had cracked.
Once I had realised and pushed the connector home fully, I resolved easily by bleeding through new fluid as was intended anyway.

Next point,
on completion the pressure release on the main tank will draw fluid back from the vehicle reservoir. But only if the main tank is lower than the reservoir. If it isn't there will be some new fluid spilt as the cap is unscrewed.
Obvious when your busy mopping up.

Some years back being tired of balancing catch cans, and spillage, I concocted this to deal with the old fluid from the caliper

 

[Richard Moakes]

I bought one of these BGS 8519 | Brake Bleeding Bottle | 1 l https://amzn.eu/d/ii3zDYk to use with my Sealey pressure bleeder.

Works really well, not had any mess so far

 

[alexanderfoti]

We use an autel motorised version, works really well, but even with that you sometimes have to actuate abs valves to get all the air out

 

[Bay Leaf]

I want to do a fluid change on my 2013 SL350 non AMG braking system. Can I do this the old fashioned way eg someone pumping the pedal and me working at the wheels. I do have a Gunson's Eezibleed but I'm not sure if I have a cap to fit and also find it to be a bit messy to use. I also prefer the two man method as the one pumping the pedal can top up the reservoir.
Thanks
BL

 

[alexanderfoti]

Yes for just a fluid change, no computer needed

 

[Bay Leaf]

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Conor]

You've done me a good turn there Conor.
The kit is well made and far superior and easier to use than the Eezibleed.

The 639 had a chewed nipple, easily replaced with the wheel off, and of course using this kit a breeze to bleed afterwards.

I've just done the 211, off trolley jacks.
2 jacks, each axle high in turn, and on my back to crack the nipples (once the kit is connected and pressurised of course). Done between rain showers all completed in less than 1 hour.

A couple of points worth a mention, imo.
On 1st use I connected the air line fitting to the supplied cap.
It latched and held, pressured up there were no leaks. But it hadn't gone fully home, even though it looked good.
The result was that I cracked nipples and fluid exchanged with air, looking like it was bleeding, but badly. The union hadn't allowed for the new fluid to pass at the cap, so all I was doing was introducing air to the calipers I had cracked.
Once I had realised and pushed the connector home fully, I resolved easily by bleeding through new fluid as was intended anyway.

Next point,
on completion the pressure release on the main tank will draw fluid back from the vehicle reservoir. But only if the main tank is lower than the reservoir. If it isn't there will be some new fluid spilt as the cap is unscrewed.
Obvious when your busy mopping up.

Some years back being tired of balancing catch cans, and spillage, I concocted this to deal with the old fluid from the caliper

Hey, glad to be of service ..

LMAO - you did a bit better than me .. When I set mine up, the push connector wasn't 100% seated, and as soon as I pressurized, the connector popped and I had a nice stream of DOT4 into the engine bay....

 

[Conor]

... while we are on the topic of bleeder appliances...?

What are peoples thoughts on the vacuum type appliances?

My thoughts are that they are unreliable...the problem is that if the connector onto the bleed nipple isn't 100% sealed, you can introduce air (bubbles) at that point - which means a load of bubbles in the bleed line .. and if you aren't tuned in, it looks like there is loads of air in the system, which results in a perpetual wait for air free lines ... ask me how I know.

With that in mind, I don't think i'll ever use a vacuum bleeder again. I just don't have confidence in the technique.

 

[Uncle Benz]

Here’s a trade tip for you… some cars are trouble, even when you have all the kit. Audi A3 for example. If you have to remove the ABS unit (which you often do, because they break) the bleeding proceedure will see you put a gallon of fluid through it, pulsing the pump and clicking the valves. You’ll still end up with a soggy pedal. And here’s the tip - pump the pedal up hard, wedge it down with a length of wood braced against the seat and leave it overnight. The compressed air bubbles really don’t want to sit there and they will rise up overnight. When you release the pedal in the morning they’ll be right there ready to pop into the reservoir and out to freedom. This method has saved me countless times over the last quarter century. The old tricks are still the best!

 

[Conor]

Here’s a trade tip for you… some cars are trouble, even when you have all the kit. Audi A3 for example. If you have to remove the ABS unit (which you often do, because they break) the bleeding proceedure will see you put a gallon of fluid through it, pulsing the pump and clicking the valves. You’ll still end up with a soggy pedal. And here’s the tip - pump the pedal up hard, wedge it down with a length of wood braced against the seat and leave it overnight. The compressed air bubbles really don’t want to sit there and they will rise up overnight. When you release the pedal in the morning they’ll be right there ready to pop into the reservoir and out to freedom. This method has saved me countless times over the last quarter century. The old tricks are still the best!

Experience eh! Sounds like a solid tip .. thanks G.