Brake fade on my Sprinter

deer man

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Hi, as the title suggests I have brake fade, its fine when you pump the brake but if you hold the brake hard the resistance fades. I have bled the brakes and there was very little air in the system.

A mechanic friend has suggested it could be due to the high pressure of the pump or it could be the master cylinder!!? He seems to remember a tech letter being sent to MOT centers.

If it is the MC how much would it be to replace?

Many thanks in Advance!
 

turbopete

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ive no clue on price im afraid, but it certainly sounds like a master cylinder fault.
 

television

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We have had one or two sprinters that have been difficult to bleed. the master cylinder is fairly easy to replace,,it is a twin system where one seal can go down
 
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deer man

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Television, could you send me the 3 papers on bleeding the system?
 

television

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With an Email address I can
 
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deer man

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Thanks! I am trying to work out how to send a pm.
 

television

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Thanks! I am trying to work out how to send a pm.

You cannot send PMs until you have been here a couple of months.

You can add your Email address in your signature/ profile, do click save at the bottom of the page
 
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deer man

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Malcom,


Many thanks!
 
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television

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All 3 sent,,you can go back to your post and remove the address within 2 hours in edit
 

turbopete

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it is, but when you get heat related rake fade, (PROPER brake fade) it doesnt pump up, whereas this does, which to me sounds like theres air in the system somewhere, like a faulty master cylider or incorrectly bled brakes as, when you pump the pedal it goes hard, then sinks.

also for the OP, check the calipers (and if it has drums on the rear, the wheel cylinders too) all round for fluid leaks as a faulty caliper seal could also cause this problem!
 

Russ/merc

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Hi Im new to this forum, it seems there might be some good advice to correctly bleed sprinter breaks?? Just replaced the discs and pads all round and removed the front calipers and de-rusted them as they looked like something dredged off the sea bed, however now I have awful break pedal feel! which ever way I attempt to bleed them (pressure bleed, then tried a vacume bleed) they are great without a vac on the servo, but as soon as the servo vac's up the pedal fades to the floor!!! Please help as I assume there is a issue with these and I might be just a simple procedure change in the bleeding method.
 

wireman

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This may be an example of servo booster control valve failiure or a leak on the vacuum valve within the servo booster.
 

Number_Cruncher

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As the OP stated, there is a technical note for MOT centres explaining that on some diesel engined vehicles some pedal creep may be normal and acceptable.

See section C on this page;

http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_330.htm

to determine whether the system on your vehicle is acceptable.
 

Greenblood

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Sorry to bring up an old topic, but as a new member I'm not yet allowed to start a thread yet.

I have a 308 sprinter, I have just failed the mot with rusty brake pipes. I have replaced them and am due to bleed them tommorrow...is there a set procedure or any tips on bleeding them?

Thanks chaps!

Steve
 

turbopete

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you should be able to start a new thread no problem!

bleeding should be the same as any other vehicle, as far as im aware!
 

Greenblood

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308 sprinter normally aspirated!
No I got a message saying I couldn't because I didn't have permission or wasn't yet registered or something.

Heho!

Ok, so nowt to worry about then? That's cool.

Ta chap

Steve
 


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