brakes 54 plate c class

[bigfoot148]

on last mot front off side brake was less officient than others,is this a common occurence? what needs to be done to solve the problem

 

[Cole@MBS]

Sounds like its seizing up, very common for the nearside on a 203 to seize but not the off side.

Welcome to the forums.

 

[turbopete]

yes definately sounds like seizing up. more common also on low mileage/low useage cars as the brakes are seldom used to keep them free! as stated, more common on nearside. i think thats the case for all cars. probably coz thats where all the water stands on wet roads!

 

[television]

Wonder why this is only on the 203

 

[rob the painter]

To make that side more efficient, the caliper needs stripping out (not necesserily removing completely) and the brake pad locations and the caliper sliders need cleaning (with emery cloth) and rebuilding with copper grease. If you are confident you can remove the piston seal and press the brake pedal a couple of times to extend the cylinder. Look for any corrosion and clean with emery cloth and wd40 and gently push the piston back. This should make the brakes as efficient as possible.

 

[Cole@MBS]

I wouldnt want to use emery on a machine finish part like a piston, a lite bit of 120 and a lot of wd40 to keep the finish but do the same job as Rob has pointed out!!

 

[Number_Cruncher]

To make that side more efficient, the caliper needs stripping out (not necesserily removing completely) and the brake pad locations and the caliper sliders need cleaning (with emery cloth) and rebuilding with copper grease. If you are confident you can remove the piston seal and press the brake pedal a couple of times to extend the cylinder. Look for any corrosion and clean with emery cloth and wd40 and gently push the piston back. This should make the brakes as efficient as possible.

If the slides *need* emery cloth to clean them rather than just a rag with solvent, then, you should fit new slides.

The caliper pistons form the high pressure seal, and have only a thin plated coating. Nothing beyond a rag and solvent should be used.

Copperslip should *not* be used anywhere in contact with rubber - a dedicated rubber grease should be used.

During the 80's, many Vauxhall calipers siezed up because well meaning DIyers and back street garages used copperslip on them - it swelled the rubber, and jammed the slide.

 

[rob the painter]

Just to clarify I did not mean put copper grease on the piston, just the brake pad contact area as per the norm. As for emery cloth, it comes in different grades so use a circa 320 grit. The wd40 will also act as a lubricant so not to leave heave scratches. This method is only to remove corrosion. If its not corroded, dont rub it.

 

[Number_Cruncher]

>>If its not corroded, dont rub it.

If it is corroded, renew it!, don't rub it!

 

[wireman]

DO NOT use WD40 anywhere near a brake component.

WD40 is mineral oil based.

Mineral oil must never contact any brake seals, pistons or gaiters covering them.

If it gets on the hydraulic seals they will be seriously damaged, even a mineral oil finger print on a part normaly wetted by brake fluid can have disasterous results, this applies to all hydraulic brake parts on any vehicle. The damage may only manifest itself months or years later probably just when you need the brakes to work at their very best.

If a solvent is required use methylated spirits only and nothing else.

Lubricate parts for assembly with brake fluid only.

Cleanliness is of paramount importance.

Number cruncher has it right, if any part is tatty renew it.