Buggered it up

[LNM]

Trying, un-successfully, to do a spot of rust bubble removal.

Got rid of the rust, sanded back to raw metal, cleaned with meths, primed (twice) and then painted using the right colour paint with a tiny brush.

But it looks sh**te because its metallic silver.

Am I fighting a losing battle here + should I go to a paint shop? Is it worth me even trying in other words?

Only ever tried re-spraying small bits on a flat colour, which looked fine once dried + polished, but methinks this is gonna be a lot more difficult, given the initial results.

 

[landover]

You would be better leaving car into a body shop to get it done

There is no way you can achive decent results with a brush.

Any way after rubbing car down you will have to build up with filler.

Then use an orbital sander to shape filler

Now you are ready for primer

If the car is silver it will need a base coat first then lacquer it.

 

[Richard Murray]

Paint

Hi

First rule in DIY paint-shop is patience.

You're half way there if you've sanded the area right back to bare metal. There is a product you can use at this point (Jenolite), which you simply paint on, leave for half an hour then wipe off. The acid gel kills any rust that may be in tiny holes in the bare metal. Use wet and dry sandpaper for best results. If you need a lubricant in addition to water - use a tiny amount of car shampoo. Don't use Fairy Liquid as it's full of salt.

By the way - all this should be under-cover in a garage, and completed on a dry day. Now you can prime the metal area. A couple of coats will do the trick. Remember to sand back lightly to achieve super-smooth results.

For the top-coat, leave your spray-can standing in a bucket of warm water so that the paint reaches room temperature and avoids tell-tale splatters. When spraying - don't get too close and don't rush it. Small sweeps will do. Then leave and return 30-45 minutes later and build up. Once you're happy with opacity and paint thickness, leave well alone. The paint needs to cure before you can apply the top lacquer clear-coat. A week should be ample.

Same set-up with the lacquer.

If you rush it - then you'll need to start from scratch. Tell-tale runs are the result of too much paint.

Best of luck.

Richard

 

[numbnuts]

Re: Paint

Hi

First rule in DIY paint-shop is patience.

You're half way there if you've sanded the area right back to bare metal. There is a product you can use at this point (Jenolite), which you simply paint on, leave for half an hour then wipe off. The acid gel kills any rust that may be in tiny holes in the bare metal. Use wet and dry sandpaper for best results. If you need a lubricant in addition to water - use a tiny amount of car shampoo. Don't use Fairy Liquid as it's full of salt.

By the way - all this should be under-cover in a garage, and completed on a dry day. Now you can prime the metal area. A couple of coats will do the trick. Remember to sand back lightly to achieve super-smooth results.

For the top-coat, leave your spray-can standing in a bucket of warm water so that the paint reaches room temperature and avoids tell-tale splatters. When spraying - don't get too close and don't rush it. Small sweeps will do. Then leave and return 30-45 minutes later and build up. Once you're happy with opacity and paint thickness, leave well alone. The paint needs to cure before you can apply the top lacquer clear-coat. A week should be ample.

Same set-up with the lacquer.

If you rush it - then you'll need to start from scratch. Tell-tale runs are the result of too much paint.

Best of luck.

Richard

Talking through your porthole mate it is only a small rust spot he has touched in with a brush.
If he sprays the rust spot he will have to spray the full panel also never heard of leaving basecoat
A week before you can put the clear lacquer on that means your car is off the road for more than a week for a little rusty spot behave yourself.

 

[landover]

Re: Paint

Hi

First rule in DIY paint-shop is patience.

You're half way there if you've sanded the area right back to bare metal. There is a product you can use at this point (Jenolite), which you simply paint on, leave for half an hour then wipe off. The acid gel kills any rust that may be in tiny holes in the bare metal. Use wet and dry sandpaper for best results. If you need a lubricant in addition to water - use a tiny amount of car shampoo. Don't use Fairy Liquid as it's full of salt.

By the way - all this should be under-cover in a garage, and completed on a dry day. Now you can prime the metal area. A couple of coats will do the trick. Remember to sand back lightly to achieve super-smooth results.

For the top-coat, leave your spray-can standing in a bucket of warm water so that the paint reaches room temperature and avoids tell-tale splatters. When spraying - don't get too close and don't rush it. Small sweeps will do. Then leave and return 30-45 minutes later and build up. Once you're happy with opacity and paint thickness, leave well alone. The paint needs to cure before you can apply the top lacquer clear-coat. A week should be ample.

Same set-up with the lacquer.

If you rush it - then you'll need to start from scratch. Tell-tale runs are the result of too much paint.

Best of luck.

Richard

Now you have really confused the guy
You tell him to use car shampoo . NO This contains wax.
Then you tell him to leave it for a week before final coat.
Post some pictures of your paint jobs .
You will never paint a metalic car with your process.

Sorry but you are talking wet m8.

 

[Richard Murray]

Paint

Hi

I'm assuming the rust spot is on an arch, but what the hell, the original post by LNM doesn't say. He also doesn't mention the age of the vehicle, and whether it's worth the 'folded stuff' for a professional paint job.

It's possible to paint just a section and I know from experience that the trade also used to 'feather' a painted area, rather than completing the whole panel.

There's nothing wrong with using a tiny amount of shampoo. The majority is washed off during the process. If you're concerned you can wipe-over with methylated spirit or acetone to remove any traces of wax or grease.

I normally leave the paint to cure as suggested, although everyone will have there own view on this. It doesn't mean the car is off the road, however it will mean masking off the area again and wiping down the panel. At this point if there were any flaws in the original paint job, they could be remedied with T-Cut before sealing with a couple of coats of lacquer.

If the car is under 6 years old or particularly valuable I'd be inclined to get a professional job done. They have the added benefit of being able to bake panels and use proper air-conditioned spray tanks for temperature, filtration, etc.

Richard

 

[sclass]

Re: Paint

Hi

I'm assuming the rust spot is on an arch, but what the hell, the original post by LNM doesn't say. He also doesn't mention the age of the vehicle, and whether it's worth the 'folded stuff' for a professional paint job.

It's possible to paint just a section and I know from experience that the trade also used to 'feather' a painted area, rather than completing the whole panel.

There's nothing wrong with using a tiny amount of shampoo. The majority is washed off during the process. If you're concerned you can wipe-over with methylated spirit or acetone to remove any traces of wax or grease.

I normally leave the paint to cure as suggested, although everyone will have there own view on this. It doesn't mean the car is off the road, however it will mean masking off the area again and wiping down the panel. At this point if there were any flaws in the original paint job, they could be remedied with T-Cut before sealing with a couple of coats of lacquer.

If the car is under 6 years old or particularly valuable I'd be inclined to get a professional job done. They have the added benefit of being able to bake panels and use proper air-conditioned spray tanks for temperature, filtration, etc.

Richard

You just go on and on talking rubish [.air-conditioned spray tanks]
What are you on about.Do you live on a different planet.

 

[numbnuts]

Re: Paint

Hi

I'm assuming the rust spot is on an arch, but what the hell, the original post by LNM doesn't say. He also doesn't mention the age of the vehicle, and whether it's worth the 'folded stuff' for a professional paint job.

It's possible to paint just a section and I know from experience that the trade also used to 'feather' a painted area, rather than completing the whole panel.

There's nothing wrong with using a tiny amount of shampoo. The majority is washed off during the process. If you're concerned you can wipe-over with methylated spirit or acetone to remove any traces of wax or grease.

I normally leave the paint to cure as suggested, although everyone will have there own view on this. It doesn't mean the car is off the road, however it will mean masking off the area again and wiping down the panel. At this point if there were any flaws in the original paint job, they could be remedied with T-Cut before sealing with a couple of coats of lacquer.

If the car is under 6 years old or particularly valuable I'd be inclined to get a professional job done. They have the added benefit of being able to bake panels and use proper air-conditioned spray tanks for temperature, filtration, etc.

Richard

Still talking **** mate flatten down area to be painted then wipe over with PANEL WIPE
Then a TAC RAG then prime, when dry flatten primer TAC RAG again apply colour Flattening between coats and TAC RAGGING then once it is dry PANEL WIPE and TAC RAG
Now spray the lacquer once lacquer is dry flatten with 1200 grade sandpaper then compound Then polish. [The best compound is G3 or G4]. Now stand back and admire your work. :lol:

 

[Richard Murray]

Paint - what do I know...

S-Class

Now you know...

Shttp://www.asashop.org/autoinc/june97/paint.htm

Thanks numbnuts for info.

Richard

 

[sclass]

Re: Paint - what do I know...

S-Class

Now you know...

Shttp://www.asashop.org/autoinc/june97/paint.htm

Thanks numbnuts for info.

Richard

Now you know what...... YOU KNOW NOTHING.

 

[LNM]

Got worse problems to think of now; see profile. Also a big scratch down the drivers door.

Been quoted about £200 per side if anybody reads this far back.

Had to suffer the ignminity of quickly laquering over the word to try + stop the worst of the rust starting.

Not a happy bunny now with lots of cctv installed.