Buying an old (1987 W124) Mercedes and need some advice on corosion

[leninsaccountant]

I have always wanted a 1980s W124. I've saved for months, and I'm finally in a position to buy one.

I've found one that I have fell in love with. 90k miles. Great condition. But I wanted to get everyone's advice on some potential issues specific to the car.

I have looked up the car's MOT history. It has passed all of its MOTs, but in the advisories section it noted some corrosion

- Oil leak, but not excessive

- Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule all pipes front and rear

- Front Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material both sides

- Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material both sides

- Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced

- Front Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened both sides

- Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened both sides

- Shock absorbers has a reduced damping effect all round

- Front Coil spring corroded both sides

- Nearside Front Outer Anti-roll bar pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement

- Central Prop shaft joint worn, but not excessively

Does anyone know how serious these problems are? Is some underside corrosion to be expected given the car was produced in 1987? I am guessing things like coil spring and brake pipe corrosion would not be that expensive to fix if they did develop into a problem, but 'vehicle structure corroded' and 'suspension arm corroded' scare me.

Any advice about all this would be hugely appreciated -- especially from mechanics, DIY mechanics, and W124 owners. Thank you!

 

[daveenty]

I have always wanted a 1980s W124. I've saved for months, and I'm finally in a position to buy one.

I've found one that I have fell in love with. 90k miles. Great condition. But I wanted to get everyone's advice on some potential issues specific to the car.

I have looked up the car's MOT history. It has passed all of its MOTs, but in the advisories section it noted some corrosion

- Oil leak, but not excessive: Depends on where it's coming from, top end easy, crank/bottom end then an engine out job.

- Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule all pipes front and rear: Not a massive problem but will need replacement at some stage.

- Front Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material both sides: Again, not massive but will need replacement sooner rather than later.

- Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material both sides: As previous though can be awkward at the rear due to them being routed over the subframe

- Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced: This could be anything from slight surface rust to severe corrosion which will need addressing urgently.

- Front Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened both sides: Assuming they mean the bottom wishbones than not too bad to replace.

- Rear Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened both sides. A common fault and again, not too difficult to replace.

- Shock absorbers has a reduced damping effect all round: Replacement the only real solution

- Front Coil spring corroded both sides: Replacements needed but top housings will also need checking out for rot.

- Nearside Front Outer Anti-roll bar pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement: Not a massive problem

- Central Prop shaft joint worn, but not excessively: Will cause vibration and a harsher than normal ride, replacements available

Does anyone know how serious these problems are? Is some underside corrosion to be expected given the car was produced in 1987? I am guessing things like coil spring and brake pipe corrosion would not be that expensive to fix if they did develop into a problem, but 'vehicle structure corroded' and 'suspension arm corroded' scare me.

Any advice about all this would be hugely appreciated -- especially from mechanics, DIY mechanics, and W124 owners. Thank you!

Not a mechanic but an old bloke who still messes with cars, done a few up over the years, should know better now really but still messing with them.

I've put a few comments into your above post though other forum people may have alternative and better suggestions.

To be brutally honest, I'd be tempted to avoid this particular car as it looks to be reaching the stage where it will want a lot more spending on it than it's actually worth. Fine if it's a 500E or similar but for an average W124 I'd be looking around a bit more for a better one.

Take your time looking and, if possible, enlist the help of a Mercedes specialist before committing to buy. The fee for this service would be well worth it for what it could potentially cost you in time and grief.

One more thing, whilst most parts are available for these cars, there do tend to be waiting times for certain things so this would also need factoring in.

 

[rayhennig]

Any advice about all this would be hugely appreciated

My feeling is that this car should be avoided.

Join the UK MB club and pose these questions there. And I sometimes see members selling vey good, well preserved cars.

Someone asked me recently about buying a 30 year old MB. I advised to have upwards of £5000 in reserve after purchase. More if you want the best.

RayH

 

[ajlsl600]

Corrosion is the issue, mechanicals not big drama, may cost, but doable. If significent rot ur financially screwed, unless ur able to do all urself, except perhaps top coat. Find something nicer, needing no bodywork

 

[00slk]

Sounds like another mot tester who is not competent on inspecting a car. Corrosion, surface rust are two totally different things.
How can a tester decipher between corroded brake lines covered in grease or other materials. If the brake lines are corroded that is a fail! How can they say corroded covered in grease. X-ray eyes. Springs is another one, corroded mean damaged, so another fail. Or another bug bear undertrays fitted, so could not inspect!!
Really, where's their x-ray eyes...
If you ask me, the whole mot inspection is a farce. We did inspections that involved using screwdrivers and pick hammers. We discovered the difference between corrosion and surface rust and corroded brake lines, because we were taught how to recognise damage, unsafe and safe vehicles.
If anyone is unsure on buying an old vehicle, I'm afraid a brand new or up to a 3 year old car is best, because these cars haven't been subjected to unsure inspectors.
Just my opinion on Mot's now, they virtually are ruining good clean cars safe history.

 

[Simon Barry]

Have you looked at the 124 guide, here in the General Mercedes-Benz Related Discussion by Jay of Mercland ? it is excellent. I wish he would write some more on later models !

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Sounds to me like a neglected W124 . So - .Rust locations 1 is front corner , bumper bracket to body rust .2 is Under the battery tray ,3 is the normal front wings . 4 one , or all of the wheel arches . 5 the jacking locations . And other places if its not been looked after. From what i read on its condition, i would just walk on by ..But after all it will all be down to the price of the said W124/

 

[clarkmichigan55b]

I would give it a miss. There is always some thing better if you take your time.

 

[C16RKC]

Sounds like another mot tester who is not competent on inspecting a car. Corrosion, surface rust are two totally different things.
How can a tester decipher between corroded brake lines covered in grease or other materials. If the brake lines are corroded that is a fail! How can they say corroded covered in grease. X-ray eyes. Springs is another one, corroded mean damaged, so another fail. Or another bug bear undertrays fitted, so could not inspect!!
Really, where's their x-ray eyes...
If you ask me, the whole mot inspection is a farce. We did inspections that involved using screwdrivers and pick hammers. We discovered the difference between corrosion and surface rust and corroded brake lines, because we were taught how to recognise damage, unsafe and safe vehicles.
If anyone is unsure on buying an old vehicle, I'm afraid a brand new or up to a 3 year old car is best, because these cars haven't been subjected to unsure inspectors.
Just my opinion on Mot's now, they virtually are ruining good clean cars safe history.

I read this with much interest - and I agree entirely.

A lot of MOT testers test to add "excessive corrosion" advisories when they see surface rust under a car.

 

[C16RKC]

I'd probably buy that car... so you should probably stay away

 

[DREAMER NO2]

C16RKC Haha your right mate ..