C180 kick down

D3AN

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I just recentley bought my first Mercedes C180 Esprit Auto (1996) Driving home this evening I needed to use kick down, my old omega auto just required a neat little tap on the pedal and it was away, but this didn't happen for me tonight, I tapped the pedal and nothing happened, I double tapped the pedal and kick down was there for a second and then back into normal drive. I haven't had chance to check anything as yet as it's dark outside, just wondered whether this is my fault or a problem with my car.

The accelerater feels a little strange too, very easy to press for about an inch and then quite stiff, not ever having any experience in driving these cars wondered whether this is the norm..... would appreciate any comments or advice.

Thanks
 

television

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The throttle cable can go tight on these cars, and they need to be lubricated.

Do you know what gearbox you have in the car
 
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D3AN

D3AN

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Not at the moment i'm afraid, but will find out.....

Thanks for the reply
 
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D3AN

D3AN

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Thats great thanks, Transmission 722421 04 038155 ,automatic transmission, floor shift (с 01.01.1963)
Would that be the information you need.

Appreciate the quick reply
 

television

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What this now tells me is that your car always starts in second gear, unless you use kick down,,so your throttle cable must be sorted out otherwise it will feel slow.

I will look to see if I have any info on this
 
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D3AN

D3AN

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Yes it does feel slow, I did notice when taking a look under the bonnet earlier at work that part of where the cable connects to a metal bracket on the engine with a metallic kind of nut with sleeving, the nut had broken away from the sleeving (sorry that is so vague) will have a better description and picture in the morning. Really appreciate the advice, very impressed with the knowledge thank you.
 

Ellsy Tanners

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The cable isnt to hard to change, once its set up correctly, so that there is no slack at idle, you will have a much improved smooth throttle response.
 
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D3AN

D3AN

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I plugged the x431 Launch scanner into the C180 today which revealed to current codes (MB Code 007) Intake Air Temp Sensor open circuit. I fixed that and no difference and the second Code (MB Code 064) Input signal from IFZ open circuit or short circuit to positive.

I heard that the multiplug that fits on the gearbox may contain oil, which I haven't had chance today to check and will make time tomorrow and post result.

Thanks for the support
 
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D3AN

D3AN

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I decided for some reason to try another kickdown relay which didn't do the the job. I took alook underneath and saw a control module on the side of the gearbox, I disconnected it and out of curiosity plugged in the scanner to see what codes it came up with, it listed many :-| including another IFZ fault code (unfortunetly forgot to bring the printout home for the exact codes, from it I pressume and not sure whether I'm correct that the IFZ signals are sent via this module and could be at fault, I'm waiting for another module to arrive to try this and will post results. Can anyone advise that I'm making the right assumption or will this be a trail and error experiment :)
 
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D3AN

D3AN

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I will double check that thanks ...... the reason I didn't pay to much attention to vacuum pipes was that when I cleared the codes, the code (MB Code 064, Input signal from IFZ open circuit or short circuit to positive), came back immediately without having to start/drive the car..... unfortunely don't have very much experience (if any come to think of it :) ) with auto boxes so it's a huge learning curve/challenge.

Thanks again for your support
 
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D3AN

D3AN

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Today I managed to get the car in the garage and take a look. I checked for air leaks and couldn't see anything visible from the engine bay (ramp not available to check underneath) I noticed down by the bonnet hinge n/s the loom which appears to run to the gearbox, I gave them a wiggle and to see if there was anything had rubbed through, after which I plugged in the scanner and the previous fault code (MB Code 064, Input signal from IFZ open circuit or short circuit to positive) was no longer present. I had also adjusted the throttle cable as it seemed a little slack.

I do have kick down with pedal to the floor in sports mode only, but no kick down in Drive, not entirely sure whether this is what it supposed to do.

I've also noticed that idling isn't quite right, it doesn't have a maf sensor as such more like a boost pressure sensor like the sprinters have, I have repaired the wires that go to the sensor, but this hasn't cured the idling (500/700rpm in drive, foot on brake at traffic lights) I'm wondering whether the sensor is possibly faulty and if it is, I'm wondering whether the sprinter boost pressure sensor is the same as they look and connect with the same plug.
 


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