C207 2012 Brake Pipe Repair

MrGundam

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Evening all,

So after owning this car only 1 week one of the brake lines bursts!

Seems there was a load of crud on top of the plastic under carriage right up against the brake lines.

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Which has resulted in one of the lines bursting and the one next to it corroded.

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I have inspected the rest of the lines and it is actually in good condition apart from the section that burst and was up against the moist dirt.

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Now I know the best 'sure fire' thing would be to have all the pipes replaced, but given the rest is in good condition I am thinking about repairing the straight section with the corrosion. I will call a local indy I was recommended on Monday but given I would need a tow and then the cost of the work I would expect a bill for around £500 - £600.

I actually called a another local Mercedes Independent that was open and when asked for a quote on replacing all the lines they said they would recommend replacing the corroded part only as per MB. I keep reading people online however saying the whole lines need replacing.

So I just wondered if my thinking is ok / safe:
1) Use a quality DIN handheld flare tool (Vigor V4416) so I create a bubble flare on the existing pipe at a completely clean part.
2) Use about a meter of 3/16" copper brake pipe with males nuts and joiners
3) Coat the joins and pipe with wax seal
4) Bleed the system with a pressure bleeding kit (Sealey VS820)
5) Possibly use my iCarsoft V2 to purge any air from ABS? (Not sure how much leaked out before saw the warning message)
6) Test / check / Test / Check
 

ajlsl600

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If done correctly and cut back to good no issue with repair.pipes like much else made of rubbish designed NOT to last .good old bundy lasted yrs.
 
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MrGundam

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If done correctly and cut back to good no issue with repair.pipes like much else made of rubbish designed NOT to last .good old bundy lasted yrs.
What's 'bundy'? I assume a short copper section is OK assuming it will not rub and is secured properly so no stress?
 

Mr Greedy

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Depending on access, ask a good independent if it's worthwhile replacing more of that straight run, where it's very simple to do and basically doesn't change the job, so that maybe you can get the joints somewhere protected (like high up behind wheel arch liners), and it also means that it will only be the CuNi pipe exposed to the worst of the weather/wet road. I'm not saying pay hardly any more, but if a longer section can be put it virtually at the same cost, I'd be enquiring about that.
 

mattkh

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Remove the bit you decided to replace and use it as a template to bend the copper pipe.
 

ajlsl600

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As above. You can get a cheap flarin tool that will get to where u need it. My proper flaring tool wil not get into tight spaces the copper stuff flares real easy.
 

onefortheroad

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Is that the rear most undertray you removed ?
 
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MrGundam

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Is that the rear most undertray you removed ?
The corrosion / much was the NS undertray in the middle of the car. Seems a load of mud / stones somehow got in there and sat against the brake lines. The rest of the lines are absolutely fine so I have gone the repair route.
 

sonic

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I have always intend to take my undertrays & give the underside a clean out.
Is it much of a job to get them back on again?
 
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MrGundam

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I have always intend to take my undertrays & give the underside a clean out.
Is it much of a job to get them back on again?
I'll let you know end of weekend :)

Removing them isn't too bad. I was shocked at how much dirt was stuck in there sat against the brake lines! 1 week I have had this and already had a ruptured brake line. These are not checked in an MOT as it is covered. Scary.
 

Wighty

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I'll let you know end of weekend :)

Removing them isn't too bad. I was shocked at how much dirt was stuck in there sat against the brake lines! 1 week I have had this and already had a ruptured brake line. These are not checked in an MOT as it is covered. Scary.
If you just bought the car , you must be covered by the sellers warranty ??
 

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