10 months out of a set of discs (Assume average mileage) is unacceptable
if you are getting these from MB return them. All parts carry a 1 year warrenty
hi, its 5 speed with driver program, and i have previously had problems with the gearbox, turned out to be air mass meter,.
i am now having problems with traction control, other than not being entirly sure how it works, it doesnt seem to do anything at all, and will light up the tyres if floored from a stand still, as it it never used to do this and i'd rather it didnt, i assume electronics are the devil again.
It is very unusual to have a problem with genuine MB discs. Unless you are driving very "vigourously" and then you have to go some. Thats the front. If its the rear. Then they are prone especially if the car stands or does not do much millage. They will cause a viabration. Only under these conditions would I ever suggest fitting non genuine discs to a vehicle. And only to the rear. The non genuine stuff does not seem to suffer with the same problem. But I stress only the rear.
As for the traction control. With out looking at the codes its difficult to say. But if I read you right. Then it sounds like it ok. It may well light up if floored from a stand still.
Hello Andy Thanks for that more info as follows:
Brakes I Have fitted gen MB parts always, first set of disks i replaced myself and had them skimmed afterwards a local engineering firm confirmed they were warped and refaced 90 'thou' of the fronts, they skimmed the rears flat and informed me they were true.. i do drive the car quite hard and the noise when braking from maximum speed was not that dissimilar from a 747 on take off, that has now ceased since second set of disks are fitted, although i have had a new steering damper fitted which was leaking, (maybe i had conflicting problems) this was done at the same time and i am now driving the car very gingerly to ensure pads and disks have chance to unite before i start stomping on the pedal again.
Traction Control:
Note: I always drive with the autobox in winter mode, as i have found it changes up smoother, and when i want to initiate the onset of adrenilin the car seems to react on kickdown the same as it does in S mode.
For the first 10 months or so that i owned the car other than very wet or greasy, i had the confidence to floor the car, even on full lock from a junction roundabout or pulling into traffic, and it would launch off into the distance, and all i had to worry about was holding onto steering, but recently i have lost that confidence, it does occasionaly in dry conditions break traction entirly, of which i mean blue smoke, i know it is not the tyres as i changed my very worn conti' sport contacts, for new with the sport contact 2 tread pattern, these have a revised traction AA compound, and this has made no difference.
The thing is with all of the above your BAS/ESP or ASR light should come on to indicate that the system is not avialable. One last thought when you switch on the ignition does BAS/ESP light come on ( Bulb test in cluster) it should then go out a few seconds after startup
re: Piestore
Many thanks for reply:
The car is fitted with ESP, and yes the light does illuminate for 2-3 seconds on initial ignition, the brake lights work and assuming there is only one switch linked to the mechanism i therefore again assume that's all ok.
The ABS works very well, does this mean the wheel sensors are ok.
There is a cauition triangle in the dash centre, this flashes quite frequently when i drive somewhat egearly, it almost certainly is illuminated when traction is lost.
With regard to the steering sensor, i was not aware that it had one , could you possibly point me in the right direction, for location, and is it a straightforward contact arrangement that i can check with a AVO.
This could enlighten the one thing which i do not like about the car, which is it will change up-down during conering and always has done, so if a steering angle sensor is present and assuming that it would be used by other sstems ie gearbox control, could this be my problem.
Regards 'Colin'.
Not sure how the traction control works on petrol models, but on diesels when the light comes on the fuelling is reduced to reduce engine power.
If that fails then the rear brakes are applied accordingly.
It's surprisingly easy to bring on the TC in a Turbo D. :twisted:
The reason why petrols must be different is because petrol engines use the throttle flaps to govern engine power, not fuel as on the diesel. How can the throttle be closed, unless it's electrically operated?
Biggest problem with MB and probably most others is corrosion. If you wash the car or park the car and then leave it with cold /wet brakes the pads which soak up the moisture will leave a lovely rusty patch on your discs (front or rear). the difference in friction that this causes will produce vibration/noise.
usually dissapears, but if car has been left for a week or so it can be perminant, new discs (not covered by warranty) will cure. Advice is don't wash the car and leave it wet, give it a run round the block to dry the brakes.
At rev limit, most certainly it will cut the fuel not the spark as cutting the spark would cause the cylinder to be flushed with petrol causing premature wear, dilution of the oil, very high emissions and possibly a catylitic converter fire. Oh, and the odd backfire.
I wonder if this is also employed for torque restiction on wheelspin?
I would have thought the lurching would put people off driving their car in that manner sufficient to avoid the premature engine wear through oil dilution. Surely the broken valve stems and cracked rings through excessive stress would be more likely to be a problem!
ESP-- If the ecu detects the rear wheel signal does'nt match the fronts or its partner, it applies the brake of the (spinning?) wheel to regain traction, closes the electronic throttle, and flashes the triangle to warn you that it is doing something. It does'nt cut the fuel or spark.
More advanced systems also have steering angle sensors and yaw (vehicle position) sensors which tell the ESP/ASR ECU exactly what the car is doing, IE if car is oversteering (back end out) the system can tell from the amount of steering angle how fast all the wheels should be turning, (outside wheels faster), what position/direction the car is travelling in, and how much gas you are giving it, it then takes over, closes the throttle aplies the brakes (front/rear/left/right as required to correct the (skid) and flashes the triangle to tell you it's busy. Fantastic.
On my C43 the ESP warning triangle is pretty much illuminated every time I pull away unless you're gentle on the throttle, but a hint of slippery surface and away it goes. Keeping it in 'W' mode helps but it will still light up with a waft of the throttle, so you pretty much have to balance the throttle on take off to save a few hundred miles of tread each time. Trouble is the road out of my estate has a slight incline to get to the main road...so every time you want to get out quick the ol'd wheels spin, no effective traction control whatever, and the ESP warning light comes on, but it would seem that diddly squat actually happens other than a pretty yellow light!
Get dealer to run a star test for any faults, and tell them to make sure all the adaptations are set correctly. What does it do when switched off? do the wheels spin more or less??.
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