Can I spray these items with Waxoyl?

Submariner1

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I want to spray the items indicated in green, which are gold galvanised steel, So assume they are OK.

I also really want to spray the yellow denoted items, that are untreated iron. Some sort of “magneto affair” and the blue items are like laminated steel. Helped a friend with his Honda, that was unmaintained and the yellow items were rusted to hell and his is 5 years old (mine is now 13 years old) - so maintenance pays off . Previously I had just sprayed these with WD40, but that is a pain; as you have to unbolt the engine cover, and one bolt is a torqued cylinder head cover.

The question, is does it matter if it goes on the Red items i.e. the cylinder barrel and cylinder head and the lower casing. These are aluminium with steel bore liners.
I.e. will it bubble up and go horribly gunky?

apologies as I know its not per se a Mercedes issue, but you guys are the best engineering resource I know, and it might be pertinent to someone spraying their Mercedes engine bay
830A5A44-3AB5-4C32-B108-32F7459687C7.jpeg
 

Gazwould

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It will just melt away .
 

peterws1957

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Wouldn't get Waxoyl anywhere near a motor. Not only will it look awful but it will melt on the barrel and head. Why not simply use a heat resistant paint either brushed on if you can do this neatly or spray with careful masking. But Waxoyl eew no!
 

M80

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I've just bought some Dinotrol RC800 for parts of the Vito,
sounds less attractive but is designed to be brushed onto some rust, chemically react and form a solid barrier.

I've not used it yet due to it raining, but it may suit.
 

robin.large

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The 'gold bits' would be ok. The 'magneto affair' is just that and is usually either bare metal or can be protected with a suitable lacquer. Same with the coil frame which is iron.

Use a proper electro type lacquer such as CPL it's cheap.

Nothing should go on the barrels otherwise you will change the cooling / heat transfer.

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Craiglxviii

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ajlsl600

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Put a star (gun sight ) on the cover.that will fix everything... ...
 

malcolm E53 AMG

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The cooling fan is going to suck dust in from the mowing operation so anything you treat will need to dry non sticky so heat resistant paint is your best bet on non treated brackets etc
 

LostKiwi

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The cooling fan is going to suck dust in from the mowing operation so anything you treat will need to dry non sticky so heat resistant paint is your best bet on non treated brackets etc
^^^^this^^^^

I wouldn't go near that with waxoil or anything similar.
If painting aluminium use an etch primer first or it will simply flake off.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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I've just bought some Dinotrol RC800 for parts of the Vito,
sounds less attractive but is designed to be brushed onto some rust, chemically react and form a solid barrier.

I've not used it yet due to it raining, but it may suit.
Thanks. I Got some Neutrarust 661 (sounds similar) for the A Class Subframe. Abandoned it, as it needs the area to be rusty, and leaves a primer like surface. But it doesn't like painted areas. So for a panel with only a few Tiny dots of rust here and there, its no good. Used my Trustan rust converter that washes off excess on painted areas.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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Wouldn't get Waxoyl anywhere near a motor. Not only will it look awful but it will melt on the barrel and head. Why not simply use a heat resistant paint either brushed on if you can do this neatly or spray with careful masking. But Waxoyl eew no!

Thanks I didnt think the green and yellow parts would get hot enough to cure off heat resistant paint , and dusty air is dragged over this area.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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The 'gold bits' would be ok. The 'magneto affair' is just that and is usually either bare metal or can be protected with a suitable lacquer. Same with the coil frame which is iron.

Use a proper electro type lacquer such as CPL it's cheap.

Nothing should go on the barrels otherwise you will change the cooling / heat transfer.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
Thanks very helpful
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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Lawnmowers are serviced???
Local Honda agent wants £270 for an annual service!
More than the CL500!
I just keep it clean and grease moving bits and change the oil 3 times a year with Mobil 1.
Its 13 years old and the tappets are still spot on and starts first pull.
Forgot to drain the Carb last winter and the carb is a bit junked up. So stripping that down now.

my previous one lasted 30 years, worked perfectly but the deck was beginning to go but still sold for £250.
The list on this has now doubled in 13 years so worth servicing ‘em.
Recon this one will see me out LOL.
 
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Submariner1

Submariner1

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Thanks for all the tips.
I think I will waxoyl the galvanished bits and Continue painting the magneto
the yellow bits with oil. And abandon the longer term protection. It seems ok just being jet washed down and redo the oil 2x a year.

BTW Waxoyl for under the deck is brilliant. Rinsed off with hot water takes 5 mins after a cut and has lasted 6 weeks so far.
Weed and feed pretty much ate 1/3 way through my friends deck in 6 years!
 

M80

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£270 for a service or a new engine?

I was given a 2nd or 3rd hand Honda jobo years ago. Beside sharpening the blade it didn't get attention.
I used it for maybe 10 years and each new season always expected it to not play. To assist start I used to remove the pull mechanism and use a socket on my cordless to spin it up, and each year it was away again. Until one year. So I gave it some attention. I cleaned it up, the air filter was full of all sorts. I cleaned that and it didn't need the cordless anymore.

It had an oil change, long overdue of course. But these don't do much mileage so to my mind replacing oil every 2 or 3 years would do. Anyway it now lives in Wales and a tenant over there uses it monthly to cut grass at a few properties. Maybe it's time for another oil change.

I bought a new Brast 2 or 3 years back, with a Briggs and Stratton engine. The old Honda performs just as well.
 
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