Central locking bypass - access driver side fuses?

[Oldcodger]

2003 SL500 and I'm unable to use central locking including soft close on boot although key activates flashers and beep sound theres no lock action.

All batteries are OK and maintained by Ctek

I'm wanting to check that there are no fuses blown firstly but find I cant access the rear inside (drivers side) fuse box as it is centrally locked.
Any ideas please how I can bypass?

Thanks

 

[Wighty]

Have you got a metal key to use manually in the door lock ?

 

[Oldcodger]

Yes I have but that only gets me into the doors and boot

The central locking everywhere else is till locked

I've bypassed the petrol flap but nothing else so far

 

[LostKiwi]

Sounds like your PSE pump has failed - usual cause is water ingress or failure of the pump vanes.
From memory fuse 71 behind the drivers seat can blow. If you pull the fuse, check it and reinsert if not blown it can reset the pump.

 

[Oldcodger]

I can't get access to the fuse behind the drivers seat though!

Hence this post...

 

[star]

Pull the front panel off from the top and get your head down, you can see the fuses from there.

 

[LostKiwi]

Pull the front panel off from the top and get your head down, you can see the fuses from there.

This. The panel in front of the shelf pulls off top first. Get the seat all the way forward and you can get your head down the gap to see.

 

[mioba]

If you can get into the car, why cant get to the panel inside the car, or is something amiss.

 

[LostKiwi]

If you can get into the car, why cant get to the panel inside the car, or is something amiss.

Normally you'd access the fuse box through the cubby behind the driver then lift out the bottom panel from the cubby box. The cubby locks with the central locking so if the pump isn't working the cubby won't unlock (along with every other cubby and glovebox).

 

[00slk]

This. The panel in front of the shelf pulls off top first. Get the seat all the way forward and you can get your head down the gap to see.

Providing you haven't a big head.............Sorry, I'll get my coat

 

[Oldcodger]

I am a bit of a buckethead but will give it a go!

 

[Oldcodger]

I am a bit of a buckethead but will give it a go!

So I got my head in now just need to figure which fuse it is?

 

[Oldcodger]

Update - got my head in and can see that fuse 71 is 25A when it should be 20A.
I guess this suggest that the car has had a fuse blowing proclivity?
Having said that the fuse has not blown.
It did not reset the pump so I guess that is where the problem lies?
Input appreciated

 

[Blobcat]

Update - got my head in and can see that fuse 71 is 25A when it should be 20A.
I guess this suggest that the car has had a fuse blowing proclivity?
Having said that the fuse has not blown.
It did not reset the pump so I guess that is where the problem lies?
Input appreciated

Having too large a fuse installed isn't a good thing... IF a fuse is blowing it's happening for a reason and shouldn't be replaced with a larger fuse (although this will highlight the problem area... usually with a fire...)

 

[Oldcodger]

I agree - to quote Bart Simpson

'I didn't do it!'

 

[star]

Having too large a fuse installed isn't a good thing... IF a fuse is blowing it's happening for a reason and shouldn't be replaced with a larger fuse (although this will highlight the problem area... usually with a fire...)

There is a known fix and I think Malcolm subscribed to it, the pse pump has an excess current draw on pump start up, known fix is to go up by 5amps on the fuse. I suspect pump failure in this case.

 

[LostKiwi]

I'd agree with Star. It's definitely pointing towards a PSE pump failure probably through water ingress from leaking boot seals.

 

[Oldcodger]

I'd agree with Star. It's definitely pointing towards a PSE pump failure probably through water ingress from leaking boot seals.

Ive not had any great water ingress with this vehicle. Previous 350 had pools of it under the spare and the foam surround was sodden.
No such thing on this one although I do leave a towel in either side just in case.
I should find out on Monday when I have it in to my Local MB expert.
Thanks for the feedback - I'll report back when I know

 

[Oldcodger]

Turns out the PSE pump was the villain and suggested by the Techy that the PCB was showing an intermittent refusal to talk to anything.
Decided on a Genuine MB replacement which hit me for £850 + VAT = £1020!
Double Ouch!
Techy pointed out that people are selling refurbed ones now for £7-800 with limited guarantee so I figured get the real deal

Anyway I got the duff one back off them and have found a guy on ebay that will do a diagnosis for cost of return postage then quote for repair

Has anyone used this guy? Reckon its worth it to find out?

Mercedes R230 SL PSE Central Locking Pump Repair Service | eBay

I am based near Dartford, Kent. However, I travel on most weekend to and around London on the M25. A non working pump can also affect the operation of the hard top roof. If your boot won't open using the key then there is a way of tricking the car into thinking that the boot separator is closed...

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Oldcodger]

By way of an update

The local MB experts fixed the problem but sadly it was only temporary (or perhaps this is another one?)

I asked them for the old PSE pump back which they did (weren't going to) and I sent it off to the Ebay guy

Mercedes R230 SL PSE Central Locking Pump Repair Service | eBay

I am based near Dartford, Kent. However, I travel on most weekend to and around London on the M25. A non working pump can also affect the operation of the hard top roof. If your boot won't open using the key then there is a way of tricking the car into thinking that the boot separator is closed...

www.ebay.co.uk

The guy is genuine and is a sound chap called Fawad. He does this as a kind of part time sideline whereby you send the pump to him along with the ebay order for £12.98. He then tests it thoroughly and gives you a report back

So guess what? It worked fine both on the test rig he has and in his own SL500. He duly returned the pump to me (which is what the £12.98 was for). Basically the test he did was for free. I told you he was sound!

All was well for a couple of months but now the car has completely locked including the boot even on the small key. I can get in the drivers door but the alarm goes off and doesn't stop when I try and put the key in the ignition (in fact it doesn't recognise the key at all)

I have to have an interesting conversation with my original expert.

He says he will come out and have a look at the car which is under cover at home dry and immobilised.

Batteries are both on conditioner/monitors and appear fully charged.

One thing I'm wondering about - the local guy noticed that the locking fuse was 25A and he changed it back to the 20A from the fuse chart. Wondering if this a factor? I'm not going to touch the fuse or anything else until my guy comes out to look at it

Can anyone point me in the direction of 'the known fix' star mentioned above please?

Sorry to ramble on