Central locking w124 blow or suck to lock

[gorselands]

Door panel off, lubricated everything and my problem remains the same.

Remote central locking works but will not unlock. Again the drivers door button struggles to open then locks everything down again. All works ok with key.

It's a one vac pipe system. Does it blow to lock and suck to unlock or the other way round. If it is the other way round it can't be the pipe, can it?

Could problem be elswhere? Indications tell me drivers door but could well be wrong.

Resolved itself in warm weather last year but now seems to have become permanent. Not a problem using the key, just like things to work the way they're supposed to.

Many thanks

Mike

w124 1993 220ce coupe

 

[wscheffer]

It's the other way around it sucks to lock and blows to unlock.

 

[gorselands]

Thanks William. I thought it might be. This suggests it's not a vacuum leak. So leaves me wondering what else to try. I don't know how the key operates the central locking, electrical? Dirty contacts to what? Work in progress.

Mike

 

[television]

Thanks William. I thought it might be. This suggests it's not a vacuum leak. So leaves me wondering what else to try. I don't know how the key operates the central locking, electrical? Dirty contacts to what? Work in progress.

Mike

Dont forget Mike that when it sucks it could mask the fault by closing any leak,when it blows it cant

 

[gorselands]

Thanks Malcolm. Is there any way of finding the possible leak. Can I sit in the car, start it and try to operate the central locking and listen? Are there any elecrical contacts that could need cleaning, or am I clutching at straws?
And it's b' cold outside.

Mike

 

[television]

Thanks Malcolm. Is there any way of finding the possible leak. Can I sit in the car, start it and try to operate the central locking and listen? Are there any elecrical contacts that could need cleaning, or am I clutching at straws?
And it's b' cold outside.

Mike

Big snag is that the pump has a built in timer that cuts after 20 sec of running.
I use a small air brush compressor to find these faults

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb1.as...960&GA=722.428&GM=717.413&CT=F&Cat=15T&SID=80

I think that i would seperate and block off some pipes to narrow the search down, undo some of the T pieces and block them off.

Its B cold here too

 

[gorselands]

Thanks Malcolm, I do have a compressor but it's big so will think about that. Reluctant to start stipping all Vac pipes to test. Could it possibly be anything else before I start?

Mike

 

[gorselands]

After a liberal spray of wd40 and contact cleaner all seems to be working fine. However, button does not seem as free as passenger side. Would like to remove the vacuum container (actuator??) and check mechanical links and the seal.

Is it easy to remove, before I start undoing everything around? So far I have only identified one Phillips screw attached to it at the bottom of the chamber.

Could the wd40 have made a temp seal? The mystery goes on!

Mike

 

[C220GJS]

Are you sure it's not just the button binding in the door lining ,there was a thread about this recently and the cure was to spray a silicon lubricant around the lock button, I think.

 

[television]

I will do a DIY for the pump on the 123.124,126 and 202 cars in the next few days with pictures.

 

[gorselands]

Many thanks everyone. It's working again. Annoyingly I am not sure why. It could be that the liberal dousing of WD40 and contact cleaner, general fiddling has has eased something. Of course partially refitted door panel before realising I left out the poythene sheet! Never mind the sun was shining.

Malcolm, Look forward to looking at the DIY for the pump. Have a happy easter everyone.

Mike
PS. I have another query re. rear screen but will post that seperately.