clk 200 kompressor engine noise

[spoddy_clk]

Hello everyone

I hope you are all keeping well in current circumstances.

I have an issue with my a209 2004 clk 200 kompressor which I am scratching my head with and was wondering if anyone has experienced a similar problem.

When I start the car it runs fine for a few mins, then I hear a click and a drummmm noise and the revs drop then the noise stops, it then runs for a few seconds then click and the drummmm noise again with revs dipping.
This goes on for about a minute then goes away and engine runs ok.

If I am driving and stop at the lights the noise comes on and the revs drop from idle and engine stalls. Not all the time but majority of it.
The engine restart takes a 4 seconds roughly but engine restarts.

Anyone know what it could be?

I had check engine light come on and would get P0172 and P0410 the odd time. I clear the codes. I have had the air hose under the air filter replaced, the one under the kompressor with the little valve.
Was told MAF was ok. The exhaust manifold had a crack at the seam going into the engine and was welded which initially removed the Cel light and new thermostat and fixed the running rich issue when I bought the car.

Was just trying to figure out what this drummm or whirring noise and revs dipping at idle would be.

Thanks
Ronnie

 

[John Laidlaw]

Alternator?

 

[spoddy_clk]

I have been going out every 5 days and starting the car using a portable power pack device I have. With lockdown the car hasn't been driving really, but this was happening before lockdown when I was driving it.

The voltage on the dash says 13.5-13.7 at idle. Adding foot to gas pedal and revs at 1200rpm it says 14.1 volts or 14.2 but stats at 14.1 volts then lifting off gas pedal it says 13.5 or 13.6 volts.

Would a bad alternator or lowish battery cause issues like that?

 

[LostKiwi]

Does your Aircon work as it should?

 

[spoddy_clk]

I am getting the bump bump bump noise from the dashboard. I think I turned the Aircon off on the dash but was wondering if it could be the pump with the clicking and noise.

I'll try pressing the air con button and see if it makes the same noise.
As I got a new serpatine belt and pulley put on I was wondering if it being new is making something like an alternator, power steering and or air con pump run different.

Do air con pumps running with little refrigearint make noises and can it cause the car to stall after driving.

My work mate says need a proper service like oil change and as voltage lowish on the battery a new battery as could be the load on and off causing the issue.

I have recorded a video of the noise.

Thanks

 

[spoddy_clk]

I tried starting the car tonight and it started up ok. Air con was turned off (red light on button) let car run over, battery was starting from 10.9-11 volts then went up to 13.6 volts at idle.

No groaning or drummmm noises so when temperature was at about 50 degrees celsius I tried turning the fan on full setting on cold setting temperature control.
With no air con, I noticed the groaning started whether it was coincidence as I had the fan on the volts dropped to 13.4 volts on the dashboard display.

I tried switching the aircon on and the load was down a bit but went back to 13.6 volts sometimes 13.7 volts at idle.

The noise was in the background and eventually ceases. Revs drop as the noise comes on but go back to normal about 800rpm.

Running aircon on and off with fan settings at half and max seems to put more load on the battery which I assume is normal but drops to 13.3-13.4 volts.

My question is would a new battery be at 13.6-13.7 volts when the car is running at idle? Increasing the revs to 1000 rpm will increase volts to 14.1 or 14.2 volts.

Could the noise be alternator struggling to keep the battery charged?

I didn't get any CEL light on the dash.
I think the air con needs charged as not blowing really cold air.

Thanks

 

[spoddy_clk]

Hello everyone

Long time not been on, but it's understandable in these awful pandemic times. I've been busy at work (NHS).
Hopefully it'll be the beginning of the end of it in a few months with a vaccine.

Update on my 2004 clk 200 kompressor A209.
So few weeks back the car battery was basically dying and I was getting the dash errors or malfunctions for the stability, abs and airbag etc. I checked out a few shops and eurocarparts for a replacement battery, ended up getting a Mercedes one off the Mercedes dealership a few miles from me for £120. Same 74ah and 680cca as the older Varta Mercedes battery. It was lighter than the old battery too so shows how old it was and had been in.

Took my time removing the air cabin filter box, and used old jump leads to connect a spare battery to the leads while taking the
old battery leads off and lifting the battery out. I wasn't sure if the car has a radio code, so didn't want to take chances.
New battery in, connected up. Air cabin filter box back on. Fixed up the wiring for the windscreen washers etc as the insulation material had come away with some insulation tape.

Started the car and it roared into life but got that hunting and revs jumping up and down then settled.
Next job was to replace spark plugs, ordered some but got plugs for the w204 c180. Very thin and long, not correct.
Took old plugs out and noticed very black with orange/brownish colour on the end of most of the plugs, one was black, suspected running rich cylinder. Some wire brush cleaning and fine sandpaper and they looked alot better. Added a bit of copper grease to the threads and put back in. When I lifted the engine cover alot of old insulation material had broken up and little bits were everywhere so carefully removed the bits in around the plugs before removing them. Didn't want any of it falling into the cylinders.

I took my time as one of the ignition coil bolts had been rounded, but luckily the others came out and I found one of my little handle hex head screwdrivers fitted the head of the bolt so using some vice grips on the rubber handle and pushing down, it cracked loose and I could remove the ignition coil bolt.

All plugs went back into their respective locations and I gave the ignition coils a blast out with electrical contact cleaner, dried naturally and reinstalled.

After that I started into removing the throttle body pipe and it was dirty but not that bad, so using cotton buds and paper towels blasted it out with carb cleaner and gave the outside a good clean. I gently used the cotton buds around the edge of the butterfly flap careful not to disturb it. It will really need taken off and the reverse side cleaned.

So once dry, reattached the air pipe and bolts etc, copper greasing them as I went. I also took one of the little air pipes off and blasted some carb cleaner into the EGR valve. It'd need taken off and properly cleaned but tried this in the mean time.

Finally I disconnected the air filter cover removed the air filter. The amount of little stones in the bottom of the tray, I carefully removed and using a little brush and old cloth cleaned the plastic up. I used electrical contact cleaner and blasted it into the MAF. It might not of done much as hard to see it. I cleaned the plug end too.

Next I cleaned some air valve connectors in the ignition coil area, the one that is a barrel shape and sits to the left of the third coil from the front. It had a little old oil in it. So gave it a good clean up. I reattached and disconnected the ECU plug and transmission plugs. Transmission was ok, the ECU longer one had old oil on some teeth. so clean cloth and thin plastic square and gently cleaned the oil off. Blasted the plug head with electrical contact cleaner and cleaned oil off. Did this a few times to try and get as much out as possible.

I did get the pig tails installed last November, loom was washed out, must be some still there.

Once everything dried, reattached then checked no tools sitting about, all elecy plugs connected tightly. Everything in place, lowered bonnet and went to start the car.
Turned the key let go, car took a little while to start, but it fired up and hunted a little. I gave the car a little throttle and it smoothed out and took car out of the garage and let it run over in the yard.

Car warmed up to about 50 degrees so switched off and restarted. Fired up very quickly, slight hunting but not long idle smoothed out.

Went for a drive to the shops and car felt better. Only thing is driving slowly 30mph-ish gears change after they reach the speed, but sometimes the revs sit at 2500 or higher if putting foot down from pulling away before the gears up-shift or just after I bump the gear stick to the right or towards me.

So I think a transmission fluid and filter change is next. Is there anything else that could cause the shifting to delay. On the open road I tried the kick down, revs shot up but car didn't blast forward. It worked one night a few weeks after getting the car last year. I stopped to get petrol on Monday and pulling out of the station I gave a bit of gas and coming up to the little roundabout car surged forward a little, like the kompressor kicked in.
But went around the roundabout and tried a little acceleration and long delay before shifting, only when I let off it up-shifted.
I am thinking low transmission fluid or it needs changed. Coming up to the lights or stop signs the car downshifts ok if take foot off the gas.

Anyone recommend a good dipstick somewhere to check the level?

Thanks long read sorry but appreciate any advice from experience anyone may have.

 

[Wighty]

Dipstick for the 722.6 box
https://pulsar.ebay.co.uk/plsr/clk/...YV8dV8/gajAm3tLXzSVSXaxTBxtmm6+tZbas7NPPuLk"}

 

[Wighty]

Gearbox atf and filter change every 40k on these boxes buddy

 

[spoddy_clk]

Thanks Wighty. I don't know when it was last changed tbh.
But I'll buy the correct filter, gasket and Automatic transmission fluid for the car and get my mechanic to change it.
Then it'll be done car is on 118553-ish miles.

 

[Wighty]

Thanks Wighty. I don't know when it was last changed tbh.
But I'll buy the correct filter, gasket and Automatic transmission fluid for the car and get my mechanic to change it.
Then it'll be done car is on 118553-ish miles.

Also get the electro plug that goes into the gearbox changed , they can leak .

 

[spoddy_clk]

I didn't see any drips on the garage floor. I also watched a youtube video and see it has covers over it so unless it stops it dripping.
I was thinking of replacing it too, but was really wanting to see if a transmission fluid top up would resolve gear changing at more revs. It was changing at 2500 rpm, then over 3-3500 rpm so unless that plug is intermittent?

Is there a dipstick that can read the engine oil and auto transmission fluid as one dipstick?
As would be useful for the w211 e class too, my dad doesn't like trying to read a display, not that techy pressing buttons etc lol.

 

[Wighty]

I didn't see any drips on the garage floor. I also watched a youtube video and see it has covers over it so unless it stops it dripping.
I was thinking of replacing it too, but was really wanting to see if a transmission fluid top up would resolve gear changing at more revs. It was changing at 2500 rpm, then over 3-3500 rpm so unless that plug is intermittent?

Is there a dipstick that can read the engine oil and auto transmission fluid as one dipstick?
As would be useful for the w211 e class too, my dad doesn't like trying to read a display, not that techy pressing buttons etc lol.

I have a dipstick for the 5g auto box , like I posted above . The 7g box doesn’t have a dipstick tube (don’t know if your Dads W211 is 5 or 7g box ? ) . Both my cars have dipsticks for their engines which are car specific

 

[spoddy_clk]

His w211 cdi is a 4 cylinder 06 model. I would need to check tbh when I am next round.
I was wondering if the one dipstick can read engine oil level and transmission fluid level off the little bit at the end of the dipstick.

I checked my engine oil level using the car display in my clk and it said 5.7 litres. Would that be ok?

I'm just giving the car a good service, so air filter, oil filter and oil changed. Serp belt and pulleys changed. New air pipes under air box and the one with little valve under the kompressor replaced. New thermostat, car warms up great. Pig tails on the cam shaft sensors to stop oil going into the loom. Cleaned all electrical connectors, and spark plugs though will order new replacements.

I noticed the droning noise isn't as loud or bad, so maybe new battery helping. I will continue to check electrical plugs for further oil and hopefully it'll eventually be gone.

Thanks for your help Wighty. I'm slowly learning everything on this car and hoping a good tune up will get it back to standard as an older man owned it before me so dunno how well he kept it serviced as no history.

 

[spoddy_clk]

Which ATF is best for this gearbox?
I read that our gearboxes are designed for MB 236.10, but also read 236.14 is fine for the 722.6 5 speed gearbox and to only use the Mercedes Benz ATF not any after market stuff.

If draining from the ATF sump, how much would normally come out as I was told I need about 7-8 litres by the dealership. I know some is left in the torque converter but would an August 2004 manufactured clk 200 kompressor have a drain plug for the torque converter or can you only get it out of the ATF sump?

 

[Wighty]

Which ATF is best for this gearbox?
I read that our gearboxes are designed for MB 236.10, but also read 236.14 is fine for the 722.6 5 speed gearbox and to only use the Mercedes Benz ATF not any after market stuff.

If draining from the ATF sump, how much would normally come out as I was told I need about 7-8 litres by the dealership. I know some is left in the torque converter but would an August 2004 manufactured clk 200 kompressor have a drain plug for the torque converter or can you only get it out of the ATF sump?

Fuchs atf4134 is 236.14 and is backward compatible , eBay is where I get it , or www.opieoils.com

 

[Wighty]

With the TC drain plug if you haven’t got one , you can disconnect an oil cooler line and drain the TC from that .
You can also empty the sump , refill with 3.5L of atf , run the engine through the gears , then drop the sump change the filter and refill with another 3.5L of oil .
I buy 4L of Fuchs ATF every year and replace the sump contents because the oil is cheap (£28) . Then I change the filter every 35-40k miles

 

[spoddy_clk]

I stopped at my mechanic and he said only get the Mercedes Benz ATF 134. Is the Fuchs ATF safe to use?

 

[spoddy_clk]

Well the dipstick is ordered so at least will be able to see how much is in the sump.
I have a Mercedes sump gasket and filter out of the dealer.

Thanks for the opi oil link, I had a look and it recommends flushing to ensure all the fluid has been replaced by Fuchs.

I'll go with the Mercedes Brand in the mean time as my mechanic will be draining and removing the ATF sump for the filter.
I dunno if the bolts will come out ok lol so might leave any oil cooler pipes. I am hoping the sump bolts come out ok.

Anyways the sun is out, so will go replace my spark plugs. I was cleaning the driver seat last night and some of the beige, Kiesel Beige I believe as it was coming off at edges due to wear. So I contacted a company who make leather dyes to see if they can match it and I will sponge the dye onto the drivers seat to bring it back to life. they do work for Car SOS so should be good.

 

[Wighty]

I stopped at my mechanic and he said only get the Mercedes Benz ATF 134. Is the Fuchs ATF safe to use?

Fuchs was factory fill for MB gearboxes , eBay are doing 20% off some of the Fuchs at the moment . If the mechanic is an MB Independent specialist then go with what he says , if he isn’t, me and the other half of the world are using Fuchs
Edit , and of course MB doesn’t make oil .