CLK W209 - Engine stalls / won't start - code P1337 ?

[GilesCLK]

Hi everyone,

I have an intermittent fault on my 2006 CLK 280 w209.

Occasionally the car will not start when I turn the key. The key turns all the way and power comes on, but the starter motor doesn't turn at all, no click..nothing.
Usually I just try it 2 or 3 times and then it will work fine and car will start.

The second more serious problem which I think might be related is that at random times maybe once or twice a week, the engine will just cut out, sometimes when I've just started the car and I'm at standstill, and more worryingly sometimes when driving.
Again the car will always start again after a couple of turns of the key,
Never with either fault does the starter motor crank but the car not start, it's just always either nothing, or the car starts.

Reading similar posts some people describe crankshaft position sensor (CPS) problems and say these usually occur when the car is hot, and can mend itself when the engine cools. But this description doesn't seem to match my problem which happens when the engine is cold or hot.
Also I think with a CPS problem the car will crank, but not start, which also isn't what happens with my car.
So could my problem be a CPS issue or not ?

Alternatively I've read a few posts on Electronic Ignition Switch issues, could this be the problem ? Should I send my EIS off to be tested and rebuilt ?

Or possibly a low battery in the key fob itself ? (The problems happen when using both keys).

Alternatively could it be the "Camshaft position sensor" or magnets ?

One other thing the car is throwing a code, P1337...

If anyone has any ideas I'd be grateful for help or direction where to investigate further.

Many thanks.

 

[Wighty]

Hi everyone,

I have an intermittent fault on my 2006 CLK 280 w209.

Occasionally the car will not start when I turn the key. The key turns all the way and power comes on, but the starter motor doesn't turn at all, no click..nothing.
Usually I just try it 2 or 3 times and then it will work fine and car will start.

The second more serious problem which I think might be related is that at random times maybe once or twice a week, the engine will just cut out, sometimes when I've just started the car and I'm at standstill, and more worryingly sometimes when driving.
Again the car will always start again after a couple of turns of the key,
Never with either fault does the starter motor crank but the car not start, it's just always either nothing, or the car starts.

Reading similar posts some people describe crankshaft position sensor (CPS) problems and say these usually occur when the car is hot, and can mend itself when the engine cools. But this description doesn't seem to match my problem which happens when the engine is cold or hot.
Also I think with a CPS problem the car will crank, but not start, which also isn't what happens with my car.
So could my problem be a CPS issue or not ?

Alternatively I've read a few posts on Electronic Ignition Switch issues, could this be the problem ? Should I send my EIS off to be tested and rebuilt ?

Or possibly a low battery in the key fob itself ? (The problems happen when using both keys).

Alternatively could it be the "Camshaft position sensor" or magnets ?

One other thing the car is throwing a code, P1337...

If anyone has any ideas I'd be grateful for help or direction where to investigate further.

Many thanks.

I think a good start is to have any fault codes read with an MB specific code reader like icarsoft or MB Star .
You could check things yourself like how old is the car battery (date stamp on the terminal ?) . What charge does it have .
Unplug the electrical connectors to the cam magnets and check for oil , you should do this anyway with an M271 engine .
I’m planning on changing my ClK cps anyway at 10 years old just as a precaution , they are £30 ish .
Have you googled the fault code .

 

[Oldspanners]

Hi everyone,

I have an intermittent fault on my 2006 CLK 280 w209.

Occasionally the car will not start when I turn the key. The key turns all the way and power comes on, but the starter motor doesn't turn at all, no click..nothing.
Usually I just try it 2 or 3 times and then it will work fine and car will start.

The second more serious problem which I think might be related is that at random times maybe once or twice a week, the engine will just cut out, sometimes when I've just started the car and I'm at standstill, and more worryingly sometimes when driving.
Again the car will always start again after a couple of turns of the key,
Never with either fault does the starter motor crank but the car not start, it's just always either nothing, or the car starts.

Reading similar posts some people describe crankshaft position sensor (CPS) problems and say these usually occur when the car is hot, and can mend itself when the engine cools. But this description doesn't seem to match my problem which happens when the engine is cold or hot.
Also I think with a CPS problem the car will crank, but not start, which also isn't what happens with my car.
So could my problem be a CPS issue or not ?

Alternatively I've read a few posts on Electronic Ignition Switch issues, could this be the problem ? Should I send my EIS off to be tested and rebuilt ?

Or possibly a low battery in the key fob itself ? (The problems happen when using both keys).

Alternatively could it be the "Camshaft position sensor" or magnets ?

One other thing the car is throwing a code, P1337...

If anyone has any ideas I'd be grateful for help or direction where to investigate further.

Many thanks.

Have a look at this http://p1337.enginetroublecode.com/mercedes-benz-clkclass
Being an intermittent fault could be a connector loose or corroded or as Wighty says a battery playing up.

 

[gassed up]

It's not typical CPS failure and the batteries in the key fob are irrelevant. P1337 suggests a communication problem between EIS and ECU. The real ****er is that these intermittent faults are a nightmare to pinpoint. True diagnostics means finding the differential, change one and only one thing at a time until you find what makes a difference Could be the EIS, the ECU, the cabling or the multi-pin plugs and you won't know until it drives for a few weeks without faulting. I have a 2004 W209 320 and the electrics have become flaky, every time you fire it up it tells you about another non-existent problem. It is now off the road for a gearbox re-furb and I have vowed that whilst I have the opportunity I will remove the interior so that I can inspect the harness. With my car damp weather increases the issues, corrosion in multi-pin plug looks likely.

 

[chris300zx]

Sound just like mine. I have a w220 s class. Key always turns in ignition but sometimes wont start car. Also car cuts out sometimes and dash light go out. If I wiggle key in ignition all lights come back.
I'm trying to get my EIS Switch cloned but need to find one with the right part number first.

 

[George Benz]

Has anyone found the solution to this problem?

I have been having exactly the same issues recently, it started with key issues as in delays in unlocking and having to press the key a few times to unlock, I changed batteries in both the main and spare and did not make any difference.

Then I had issues where I would insert the key into the ignition and the dash lights would flash on and off, things like the auto moving "easy access" steering wheel would stop and start intermittently when moving into the saved position.

Finally this culminated last week when I had the "ignition" issue, a few miles down the road at a junction the engine and dash cut out, however the radio stayed on?

I stopped and restarted the engine and everything has been fine since, these issues have come and gone over the last month or so and I don't want to get it looked at yet as really the cost will outweigh the value of the car, hoping someone else has pinpointed this issue?

 

[GilesCLK]

I think a good start is to have any fault codes read with an MB specific code reader like icarsoft or MB Star .
You could check things yourself like how old is the car battery (date stamp on the terminal ?) . What charge does it have .
Unplug the electrical connectors to the cam magnets and check for oil , you should do this anyway with an M271 engine .
I’m planning on changing my ClK cps anyway at 10 years old just as a precaution , they are £30 ish .
Have you googled the fault code .

Wighty
Thank you for your comments.
I had replaced the battery with a proper Bosch one to see if that helped, it didn't.
The alarm siren under the inner wing lining was broken so I replaced that, in case some electrical short was causing random problems, but no, not that.

Your idea of checking the Cam Magnets and connections for oil, I will try and do.

Regarding the CPS, whilst the part is only £30 odd, its a real pain to replace so I need to fine someone in London or nearby who is competent and trustworthy to do it, as I won't be able to see if they've changed it..

I do feel the P1337 code is a clue - and wonder if getting a new EIS cloned for £180 odd pounds might be a start in the right direction - if I take it to Mercedes Main dealer it will cost £200 for them to run diagnostics for a couple of mornings until it doesn't start and I wonder if I should spend that money first on trying to change the EIS first in case that is the problem.
If the EIS change doesn't mend it, it might be the ECU or bad cables somewhere which then becomes beyond my DIY capabilities as I have no idea which cables and plugs to check...

Thank you for your thoughts, much appreciated..

KR

Will

 

[GilesCLK]

It's not typical CPS failure and the batteries in the key fob are irrelevant. P1337 suggests a communication problem between EIS and ECU. The real ****er is that these intermittent faults are a nightmare to pinpoint. True diagnostics means finding the differential, change one and only one thing at a time until you find what makes a difference Could be the EIS, the ECU, the cabling or the multi-pin plugs and you won't know until it drives for a few weeks without faulting. I have a 2004 W209 320 and the electrics have become flaky, every time you fire it up it tells you about another non-existent problem. It is now off the road for a gearbox re-furb and I have vowed that whilst I have the opportunity I will remove the interior so that I can inspect the harness. With my car damp weather increases the issues, corrosion in multi-pin plug looks likely.

Hi Gassed Up
Thanks for your comments, yes I agree I think the P1337 is the best clue I have.
And that the fault is somewhere in the items you mention, EIS, ECU, cabling, or multi plugs.
The problem is also finding someone who can search for the problem...
I'm sure if I take it to Mercedes main dealer they will charge me £200 and say they can't find the problem.
Although I'm sure it needs someone with Star to root out the problem.

I may change the EIS next, and possibly the CPS (although I don't think its the CPS) and then move on to the next stage.

Computers eh.. what a pain..

 

[Wighty]

Wighty
Thank you for your comments.
I had replaced the battery with a proper Bosch one to see if that helped, it didn't.
The alarm siren under the inner wing lining was broken so I replaced that, in case some electrical short was causing random problems, but no, not that.

Your idea of checking the Cam Magnets and connections for oil, I will try and do.

Regarding the CPS, whilst the part is only £30 odd, its a real pain to replace so I need to fine someone in London or nearby who is competent and trustworthy to do it, as I won't be able to see if they've changed it..

I do feel the P1337 code is a clue - and wonder if getting a new EIS cloned for £180 odd pounds might be a start in the right direction - if I take it to Mercedes Main dealer it will cost £200 for them to run diagnostics for a couple of mornings until it doesn't start and I wonder if I should spend that money first on trying to change the EIS first in case that is the problem.
If the EIS change doesn't mend it, it might be the ECU or bad cables somewhere which then becomes beyond my DIY capabilities as I have no idea which cables and plugs to check...

Thank you for your thoughts, much appreciated..

KR

Will

You are welcome buddy . You have AMF Automotive in Kent , Alex is regularly on here advising people @alexanderfoti . He would be my go to rather than Main Stealers

 

[Uncle Benz]

It’s likely the EIS is at fault. It’s difficult to pinpoint exactly over the internet, but when I have cars with this fault, failing to do anything at all, disconnecting and reconnecting all the plugs on the EIS will often get them to restart as if nothing was wrong. If that works its a given that the EIS is faulty, and causing the problem. Although the EIS units look very similar, the faults they exhibit vary by model. 203 and 209 are almost always key not recognised at all. It can turn but do nothing, or sometimes not turn at all. R230’s usually run the car but wipers, indicators and roll over bar won’t work. E class will start and run, but nothing else in the car will work at all. Just my experience