Confused About Iron Fallout Removers …

[Submariner1]

Ideally I am Looking for a “Contactless“ alternative to Fine Clay Bar.

The car was clayed about a year ago, then machine polished with 3M Ultrafina ( apparently hardly abraisive ) then hand polished with Autoglyms Super Resin Polish and then given 2 coats of Collinite Wax. The beading lasted for most of the year - but is now just about past it. No longer ‘brilliant’ beading, just slight beading, but once washed still feels slightly greasy when wet i.e. not got the “dry” Feel to the touch of say an unwaxed car.

I was going to redo the above (minus the machine polishing with 3M) , then I heard about Gyeon Q2M Iron.
Seems it sprays on and disolves iron particles, and possibly other contaminates??? And just rinses off.

Q. Is this / other Iron Fallout products an alternative to Claying? Or complimentary?
Q. If the latter, does one use The Fallout remover before claying i.e. to rinse off as much contaminate as possible before deploying the contact based claying?
Q. Is it worth using a Fallout remover on the bodywork? - (I see benefits on the wheels ref iron based brake dust etc.)

Q. Is 500ml enough to do a CL500 (S Class Coupe)?
Q. Identified 2 Products :
i) Gyeon Q2M Iron (more liquid) therefore easier to spray on? Costs more £21 / Litre
i) Valet Pro Dragons Breath (a thicker product). Slightly longer dwell time … is that worse for the clearcoat, i.e. sits on the clearcoat longer or better because its not such a strong a solution? Cheaper £14.50 / Litre.
Both are PH Neutral so hopefully won’t attack my clearcoat?

Has anyone used either of these or ideally both? … love to hear which you rate as best.
Note of Paramount importance to me is that it does not damage the clearcoat in any way. I would be totally gutted If it damaged it in anyway, i.e. I would much rather use a product that worked 50% removing iron particles, but did not degrade the clear-coat at all. Than a product that cleared 100% of fallout but even damaged or degraded the clearcoat even in the slightest way.

 

[Binnedit]

Hi Sub

1. Not an alternative to claying. Claying is an aggressive system to remove stuff bonded off the clearcoat. You will be effectively dragging the contaminates off & across the clearcoat. You will (nearly) always marr the paintwork, to some degree, by claying. Fallout remover will only loosen off ferrous particles bonded to the paint / wheels.

2. Yes, I would always use fallout remover prior to claying. Ideally, you want to remove as much of the contaminates off the paintwork prior to going in with clay. Less stuff to drag across your paintwork.

3. Yes, but get if off before it dry's out. I usually spray, let it work for a few seconds. Agitate with a soft brush & rinse. May need to go again, if not fully removed. Plus, beware it smells awful.

4. 500ml should be enough. You can use sparingly higher than the top of the wheels. I would do 1 panel at a time.

5. I also use a tar & glue remover after fallout & prior to claying, to remove more contaminates

6. Personally, I use & have good results with Bilt Hamber Korrosol.

Looking forward to some dryer weather to get to grips with my (new to me) W216!

Hope that helps

 

[mioba]

Sub, I love your OCD ness.

I cant answer any of your questions, but did you revert to the manufacturers tech dept.

 

[daibevan]

I use ironx (just cause I have it) before claying. I just use it from halfway down the car (the trim line) and on the wheels, but obviously if you have contamination higher up you could do more.

 

[Submariner1]

Sub, I love your OCD ness.

I cant answer any of your questions, but did you revert to the manufacturers tech dept.

I tried but have not received an answer yet

 

[Submariner1]

I use ironx (just cause I have it) before claying. I just use it from halfway down the car (the trim line) and on the wheels, but obviously if you have contamination higher up you could do more.

Thanks
I assume, no problems with your clearcoat?

 

[Mr Greedy]

Use fallout removers when cool and overcast, as above you don't want it drying out. If you use a quality iron remover, it won't damage your paintwork. Bolt hamber is a good recommendation.

I tend to use a couple of alternate passes of fallout, then rinse and blow dry with my power vac hose on the outlet, then tar and glue, rinse with citrus, power rinse, dry, fall out then power rinse and dry, then t&g again and the citrus and wash.

Depending on the contamination, you can find iron particulate blobs, especially on the wheels and to the rear of the wheels on the panels, where it is a combination of iron particulate bound up with tar. One hit of either cleaning product is not enough to shift these, but a multi phase approach can pretty much shift them as an almost no contact method (maybe a dedicated very light detailing brush for each solution).

 

[daibevan]

Thanks
I assume, no problems with your clearcoat?

No, but I don't leave it on long & don't use much.

 

[Submariner1]

No, but I don't leave it on long & don't use much.

Thanks when you say not too long - on the bottle it says 2-4mins. Would you aim for 2 mins?

 

[Submariner1]

Use fallout removers when cool and overcast, as above you don't want it drying out. If you use a quality iron remover, it won't damage your paintwork. Bolt hamber is a good recommendation.

I tend to use a couple of alternate passes of fallout, then rinse and blow dry with my power vac hose on the outlet, then tar and glue, rinse with citrus, power rinse, dry, fall out then power rinse and dry, then t&g again and the citrus and wash.

Depending on the contamination, you can find iron particulate blobs, especially on the wheels and to the rear of the wheels on the panels, where it is a combination of iron particulate bound up with tar. One hit of either cleaning product is not enough to shift these, but a multi phase approach can pretty much shift them as an almost no contact method (maybe a dedicated very light detailing brush for each solution).

Thanks very useful info

 

[daibevan]

Thanks when you say not too long - on the bottle it says 2-4mins. Would you aim for 2 mins?

Probably max 2 min bodywork, 4 on wheels. In practice by the time you finish spraying one side & get the hose ready its probably time to rinse. Definitely only do one side at a time.

 

[Submariner1]

Probably max 2 min bodywork, 4 on wheels. In practice by the time you finish spraying one side & get the hose ready its probably time to rinse. Definitely only do one side at a time.

Much appreciated.
is it fair to say once you see the colour change its basically worked? And can be rinsed.

 

[daibevan]

Much appreciated.
is it fair to say once you see the colour change its basically worked? And can be rinsed.

It will only change colour if there is contamination, so don't wait for a colour change.

 

[Morethanpolish]

Another one I will recommend, as have used it for about 5 years, is Kenotek Wheel Cleaner Ultra.
It doesn't stink, and is ph neutral so body safe.

Kenotek Wheel Cleaner Ultra (1 litre) - Morethanpolish Ltd

10/10 rated purple bleeding safe wheel cleaner for all wheel types

morethanpolish.com

The above is good advice.