Control panel LCD dead

71markA180

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Hi, I have a A180 2l cdi Advantage we 2006, just bought it. The LCD control panel was very faint now it has gone blank. Is there a separate fuse for this, I can't find it in the fuse box list. Is it better just to change the LCD altogether?
Any advice welcome. I don't want to splash out on anew lcd if a fuse could Bethe problem.

Thanks
 
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71markA180

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Thanks, I'll take a trip the the scrap yard see what I can dig out, if not I'll change the LCD. Cheers
 

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Hi, probably what happened it's the known issue that with heat the lcd gets darker and darker. If you see that it gets back to normal with AC on and fresh inside the cabin you know it's that issue. There are many companies which can replace the lcd, you send them the entire "dashboard" (sorry right now I don't know the correct word) and they send it back to you with new lcd. Or you can do it yourself with patience, there are videos on youtube. Replacing the entire dashboard at MB dealer is about 850 euros. I had two w245 and I had to replace it on both. Junk parts really.
 
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Hi, probably what happened it's the known issue that with heat the lcd gets darker and darker. If you see that it gets back to normal with AC on and fresh inside the cabin you know it's that issue. There are many companies which can replace the lcd, you send them the entire "dashboard" (sorry right now I don't know the correct word) and they send it back to you with new lcd. Or you can do it yourself with patience, there are videos on youtube. Replacing the entire dashboard at MB dealer is about 850 euros. I had two w245 and I had to replace it on both. Junk parts really.
 
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Hi, thanks for the advice. I managed to get the whole control panel out and striped it down. So I know an LCD replacement is possible at home. Then I found the same panel from a scrapper for £18. So I've ordered the panel, see if this one works, should be job done. Cheers
 
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71markA180

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Hi again. Now I'm really in trouble! So I got a second hand control panel from the same model. Fitted it and nothing worked. No lights at all anywhere on the panel. I re fitted the old one which just had the faulty LED but now nothing is working with that, no lights, no speedometer or rpm, fuel, all dead. Took a fault code and it says lost communication with control panel.
What should I do now? Checked all the fuses in the main box. Am I missing something or is this terminal?
 

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I don't understand, did you replace only the led panel or all the "dashboard instrument" (sorry I'm not English I don't know the exact term)? From what I remember the problem could be the fact that there are two kind of led panels, with two different voltages. Probably you put the wrong one and the error in some way blocks it at all and doesn't work.
 
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I don't understand, did you replace only the led panel or all the "dashboard instrument" (sorry I'm not English I don't know the exact term)? From what I remember the problem could be the fact that there are two kind of led panels, with two different voltages. Probably you put the wrong one and the error in some way blocks it at all and doesn't work.
Hi, I changed the whole panel with a second hand one. The replacement did not work so I put the old one back a and now nothing works on this. Before it was just the led but now none of the gauges work.
I think AI may need to reset the main computer but have no idea.
 

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Ok, in this case I think you need a professional diagnostic tool to encode the new panel. Every panel needs to be initialized through stardiagnosis (at least I suppose, they did this to me). Let us know
 
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Ok, in this case I think you need a professional diagnostic tool to encode the new panel. Every panel needs to be initialized through stardiagnosis (at least I suppose, they did this to me). Let us know
I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your help.
 

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Did you bench-test the replacement instrument cluster?
Was it something like this:

44354264824_83ec7d2921_o.jpg


You should've only swapped the actual LCD, not the whole thing - the mileage is stored, and an attempt to change it locked the CPU - as Exp21 said, it now needs a STAR session (in very capable hands) to unlock and restore the mileage.
 
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Unfortunately I did not. I thought it would be a simple swop, which I have now learned the hard way, it isn't. I'll try and find a local auto electrician that can do the job. Thanks.
 

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If you're near (or even if you're not) London, get in touch with Forrera at Sevan Motors in Hammersmith W6 7PP - unquestionably the top expert on 168 / 169 / 245 cars.
 
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If you're near (or even if you're not) London, get in touch with Forrera at Sevan Motors in Hammersmith W6 7PP - unquestionably the top expert on 168 / 169 / 245 cars.
I'm up in the NW so it's a bit far. Thanks anyway.
 
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Well I've had a development. I had a completely dead control unit after my tampering. I had lots of advice from various auto electricians and the one mentioned above. Everything from ECU, STAR and possibly a fuse. I checked all the fuses, every one, always start with the basics! All good. Today I checked I had power going to the dash and I do. Replaced the original dash after the power chech and we have lift off! Lights, rpm, fuel gauge all sprung in to life. Still no idea what the problem was and I still have no LCD but I'm certain not touching it again, well not this week anyway . Thanks everyone for your helpful tips, it's been an experience.
 

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Check your LCD voltage, I might have a spare :)

My LCD is nice and bright, I bought a spare Instrument Cluster (PCB from which is pictured above), just to get 245 sport style needles :rolleyes:

49582418703_05711d65af_o.jpg
 
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71markA180

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Looks great. I'm a little nervous about touching mine again after this experience. I can live with no LCD but not without the speed, fuel. If I do have a go I'll be in touch. Still no idea what the problem was in the first place with the total failure.
 

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Thanks :)
If you have the mileage display back, then there was no locking of CPU, as far as I know.
The total 'blackout' could be a simple connection issue - there are two pins which require 12V positive on this PCB - see the first pic above - maybe the plug wasn't locked in fully ...
 

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