Copper brake pipes

[David124T]

I am renewing all four brake disks and pads on my 1990 300TE. I have come to the conclusion that the rear pipes will also need to be renewed due to excessive corrosion. The pipes from the calipers are connected to a tee distributor that is screwed to the rear sub frame. A third pipe from the front of the car is also connected there. They all look like they will be a pig to change due to the route they take. I am considering using copper tube rather than the original steel tubing. Does anyone have any experience of using this type of pipe? Is there any reason why I should stick with steel? There seems to be tons of copper brake pipe and fittings for sale on e-bay. What size pipe and fittings would I need?
Thanks in advance.

 

[dava]

It's probably not copper but a copper coated subistute, real copper pipe kinks for fun and is virtually unusualble because of this. The stuff on e bay is much easier to use and will last as long.

 

[Mikesmerc]

Have used high pressure copper tubing before on land rovers etc. You will need a flaring tool kit if you want to start from scratch. Remove the steel length of tube, cut before the union, slide the old union off and reuse for new copper brake line. Make sure the o.d . are the same.
Mike

 

[Ultymate]

The stuff you want is known in the trade as "Bundy" tubing is easy to bend and does'nt corrode

 

[David124T]

Thanks for the replies. I think that the tube I need is 3/16" and the fittings are M10 x 1mm thread. Can anyone confirm that I have the details correct please.

Thanks

 

[Silver Arrow]

I'm fairly sure that it isn't copper, but an alloy. My son got a kit with all the bits and pieces for the fittings from the local motor factors. They supplied the tubing in lengths. Actually they will make up replacements cheaply if you supply the old bits as patterns.
I certainly wouldn't mess about using the wrong stuff in an important area such as brakes.

 

[Ian B Walker]

Having replaced "ALL" the lines on a 124 estate in the past, I would recommend dropping the sub frame. Sounds a pig of a job to do, but try routing the pipes where they were originally. Virtually impossible and soooooo time consuming. With the sub frame lowered you can at least reach all the clips and remove the old pipe as one to use as a pattern.

 

[bigasotonuk]

My local factors make the pipes up while u wait they,ve got a book that tells them the correct lengths and what ends to use for any car.
I would not go to the expense of buying flaring tools etc. when i could buy the pipes you described for approx. £15 (possibly less).
Thread sizes don,t think there normal metric threads some obscure taper thread "i think".

 

[kth286]

David124T

So they have lasted 16/17 years - very good.

Save yourself a lot of time and hassle and just fit Merc pipes/tubing from the dealer.

You will be pleasantly surprised at how cheap they are, and they come complete and to the exact length, ready to fit - and they should last another 16/17 years.

Take your VIN to dealer and delivery normally within 3 days.

 

[wireman]

The "copper" brake pipe is an accident waiting to kill somebody.
Pure copper bundy tube is suitable ony where no vibration or regular movment will take place, this is not on a motor vehicle.
To ensure your (and my) safety use Kunifer10 tubing this is a 90/10 copper nickle alloy developed for marine enviroments which does not fracture catastrophicaly after being subjected to vibration. I am amazed that people fit pure copper, when I first used K10 in the seventies the MOT man told me that copper brake pipes were a fail and they had moved to steel in the 1930's because of the disasterous results of total brake failiures. Production of the K10 documentation got me a ticket.

 

[Ultymate]

Bundy tubing as I know it is nowhere near pure copper which would as you say work harden and fracture. The bundy tubing I've used for years is pliable can be easily shaped by hand doe's not work harden and is ok even in marine environment As you say pure copper would fail MOT.