Ctek charger lead fitted & ready to be used.

[David Richardson]

A few days ago I posted a thread asking of the correct manner of permanently fitting a Ctek charger lead to my W176 and this is what I did.
I bought a 2.5mtr comfort lead & cut off the male connection, then crimped two insulated 10mm eyelets in place, carefully drilled a 10mm hole in the charging post, fitted the positive lead to the post using a short nut & bolt leaving the cover free to slide across.


I then fitted the negative lead to the nearby vehicle earth.


I Finally secured the cable using cable ties & tucked the female socket out of the way of danger & ready to be used.


Hopefully helpful to others

 

[Wighty]

A few days ago I posted a thread asking of the correct manner of permanently fitting a Ctek charger lead to my W176 and this is what I did.
I bought a 2.5mtr comfort lead & cut off the male connection, then crimped two insulated 10mm eyelets in place, carefully drilled a 10mm hole in the charging post, fitted the positive lead to the post using a short nut & bolt leaving the cover free to slide across.
View attachment 57456

I then fitted the negative lead to the nearby vehicle earth.
View attachment 57457

I Finally secured the cable using cable ties & tucked the female socket out of the way of danger & ready to be used.
View attachment 57458

Hopefully helpful to others

Very clever buddy !

 

[Wearsafoxhat]

Did a similar thing with mine. As the battery is in the boot I thought I would take the fly leads ; wired the same as yours, to a two pin socket fixed to one of the panels in the boot.

I have then cut the plug off the charger and connected the two pin plug, makes life easy.


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[ZZZZ]

Great job, David!
Those eyelets look really solid - where did you get them? - I'm sure I can use a few...

 

[ajlsl600]

all mine go with eyelets to batt and where required with extn cables to an easy place to lodge ctek itself except bikes where i just have eyelet cable appear at a convenient place to cable tie snap connector . i rotate 4 cteks around 2 bikes 3 cars and two tractor mowers worked very well for a number of yrs now . tho i still seem to need to buy 2 batt a yr on average .

 

[Blobcat]

all mine go with eyelets to batt and where required with extn cables to an easy place to lodge ctek itself except bikes where i just have eyelet cable appear at a convenient place to cable tie snap connector . i rotate 4 cteks around 2 bikes 3 cars and two tractor mowers worked very well for a number of yrs now . tho i still seem to need to buy 2 batt a yr on average .

Get one for each... currently I’ve 4 Optimate and 3 Ctek...
I also hard wire and have quick release connections cable tied to the bike frames. I just run a mains extension lead under the bonnet or boot seal in the cars. Never had a leak or issue with the seals.

 

[McDonald]

You guys have done it. I've only thought about it. I would like an arrangement that didn't involve closing the boot over a cable. I wonder if it might be possible to make a hole beside or above the rear number plate to deliver the power? I'd be interested in opinions.

 

[Wearsafoxhat]

You guys have done it. I've only thought about it. I would like an arrangement that didn't involve closing the boot over a cable. I wonder if it might be possible to make a hole beside or above the rear number plate to deliver the power? I'd be interested in opinions.

Good evening,

I wouldn’t be contemplating cutting a hole in that lovely SL of yours. Closing the boot on a small diameter cable isn’t likely to do damage to the boot seals.
A bit of extra Gummi Pflege and leave the boot open for the seals to reform should be all that’s needed.


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[McDonald]

Good evening,

I wouldn’t be contemplating cutting a hole in that lovely SL of yours. Closing the boot on a small diameter cable isn’t likely to do damage to the boot seals.
A bit of extra Gummi Pflege and leave the boot open for the seals to reform should be all that’s needed.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks for that. Except for delivering power into the boot, I see no advantage to any mods. The crocodile clips on the C-Tek clip neatly onto the battery terminals. I put the carpet back into place and the charger and extension lead sit in the boot. I just wish I could close the boot without the intrusion of the power lead. In the end, making holes in the bodywork doesn't seem like the way forward. I'll leave well alone.

 

[David Richardson]

Great job, David!
Those eyelets look really solid - where did you get them? - I'm sure I can use a few...

Hi Dave,
I bought a whole set of electrical connectors, spades. joiners & terminals from a seller on e bay some while ago

 

[LostKiwi]

Thanks for that. Except for delivering power into the boot, I see no advantage to any mods. The crocodile clips on the C-Tek clip neatly onto the battery terminals. I put the carpet back into place and the charger and extension lead sit in the boot. I just wish I could close the boot without the intrusion of the power lead. In the end, making holes in the bodywork doesn't seem like the way forward. I'll leave well alone.

If you want to fit an easy foolproof connection to the battery look at Anderson connectors.
These can be fitted under the car and all you need do is run the cables through a grommet through the boot floor or use a gland type seal.


Available in multiple sizes including big enough to handle jump starting. Weatherproof too.

I used to use them on my Defender which had two batteries secured under a seat meaning to gain access you had to unbolt the seat every time. Modified a set of jump leads to use 2 connectors so I could unplug the clamps from one end and connect direct to the Defender or connect the clamps for use on other cars. Best thing about them is that you can guarantee a clean disconnect if jump starting.
Polarity protected and fool proof if a visit overkill for the Auxiliary battery on an r230.

 

[ajlsl600]

You guys have done it. I've only thought about it. I would like an arrangement that didn't involve closing the boot over a cable. I wonder if it might be possible to make a hole beside or above the rear number plate to deliver the power? I'd be interested in opinions.

personally i aint making any more holes in my motors, if you must find a grommet thats already passing wires and use that. i run my cables from under bonnet or across door seals ,never an issue ,next job aux batt on ml166 now i understand some daft b organised things so THAT wont charge from main batt position and same db DONT ALERT ANYONE TO THAT FACT !!!!!!

 

[flowrider]

personally i aint making any more holes in my motors, if you must find a grommet thats already passing wires and use that. i run my cables from under bonnet or across door seals ,never an issue ,next job aux batt on ml166 now i understand some daft b organised things so THAT wont charge from main batt position and same db DONT ALERT ANYONE TO THAT FACT !!!!!!

I guess you know the W166 battery is under the drivers seat and Mercedes very nicely installed the battery and then fitted the carpet without cutting an access hole in it to get to the battery.

 

[umblecumbuz]

Fused circuit? Can't see one.
Unlikely to be needed, but what's a fuse for?

 

[ajlsl600]

I guess you know the W166 battery is under the drivers seat and Mercedes very nicely installed the battery and then fitted the carpet without cutting an access hole in it to get to the battery.

on mine, seat forward ,battery visable

 

[flowrider]

on mine, seat forward ,battery visable

That's good, the battery must have been replaced before or someone needed access for something.

 

[Mike Smith]

Anderson connectors are used on virtually all HGV's especially artics to provide power to the trailer interior lights and tail lifts. Makes it very easy to jump start another truck, just plug the lead in on both motors and thats it.