Disaster! Oh dear.....

[Hibbo]

Oh dear oh dear oh dear.

I'm still trying to sort my temp gauge problem, and with the binnacle removed slightly I noticed that the gauge jumps up when I moved the loom on the multi-plug.

With the binnacle out of the way I decided to carefully remove the back of the plug to check for shorts between pins, then, hey presto! I had 16 loose pins and an empty plug shell! Brilliant!

It was actually quite comical, as I tried to hold it together and push them back in, yet another man-made disaster.

So now the inevitable question; does anyone have a wiring diagram that lists wire colours and pin numbers?

I've only got one week left of my detox month, thank folk, I'm much safer in the pub on a Friday night than in the garage!

 

[anyweb]

hehe :{P

a similar thing happened to me once when i disassembled a relay on my old 190d

i pulled the cables out to view the assembly then realised my mistake, too late. I only managed to get them all back due to manoevering all the cables back to their rightful place due to luck and positioning of the wires

in your case, with 16 wires (I only had 6 to deal with) you'll need to provide the Mercedes part number of whatever it was you pulled apart

then hopefully one of us here can pull up a diagram

cheers
anyweb

 

[Hibbo]

I sort of managed to get quite a few of them back in, just going by how they sat and how the plug was keyed to its connector. I didn't have the bottle to do it this way though!

It is the main plug that goes onto the temp/fuel/oil pressure board on the instrument cluster. The car is a 1994 facelifted w124 E300 diesel estate. Luckily the pinholes on the shell are numbered.

Bugger.

 

[television]

Once more I ask for the first 6 number of the VIN I only have limited info on the 124

Malcolm

 

[Hibbo]

wdb124191
Cheers Malcolm

 

[television]

Email me m.watford@homecall.co.uk


malcolm

 

[television]

Thats wonderful, he has gone to bed, what a life some folk have.

Malcolm

 

[Hibbo]

No I've not Malcolm!

I wouldn't do that!

Email on it's way, all help is GREATLY appreciated!

 

[television]

I have sent two emails with an att, hope you get both, your luck is in as you will get all details and pin out. they are big files,so that you can read them
.

Malcolm

 

[television]

I have sent two smaller ones,they took too long to go through.

malcolm

 

[Hibbo]

Brilliant Malcolm! Just what I need!

I literally can't thank you enough

 

[television]

Brilliant Malcolm! Just what I need!

I literally can't thank you enough

Sleep well


Malcolm

 

[Hibbo]

Just got the plug back together (on the second attempt) and it works perfectly (after swapping pins 7&8 to where they should be!).

Thanks for all the help!

Going for a spin so hoping it will have inadvertently fixed the temp gauge problem....

 

[Hibbo]

Well the instruments are fine, thank folk!
But my temp gauge problem still ramains - once it's up to temp it starts fluctuating upwards, then goes FSD. Give it a tap and it (sometimes) comes back down.

I think I'll replace the 50ohm ballast resistor next.

 

[television]

Well the instruments are fine, thank folk!
But my temp gauge problem still ramains - once it's up to temp it starts fluctuating upwards, then goes FSD. Give it a tap and it (sometimes) comes back down.

I think I'll replace the 50ohm ballast resistor next.

If its wire wound,they either work or they do not.

Malcolm

 

[Hibbo]

It's standard carbon film by the looks of it. Can these go intermittently short?

I ran the engine up to temperature with the binnacle out and a multimeter on the temp sensor pin, the resistance stayed steady.

I have a gauge cluster from a pre-facelift 320, it has a different PCB layout to mine but the same connector, I might just sub that in and go for a spin, at least it'll prove if it's the sensor/wiring or the gauge.

 

[Flying Scot]

Well the instruments are fine, thank folk!
But my temp gauge problem still ramains - once it's up to temp it starts fluctuating upwards, then goes FSD. Give it a tap and it (sometimes) comes back down.

I think I'll replace the 50ohm ballast resistor next.

its not something silly like no working blades on the water pump impeller? Had that on my sons BMW 525 it had a plastic impeller (BMW said it had an alloy one so it was the last thing we checked) and the whole impeller casting had become detached from the drive hub ran fine most of the time then sometimes the needle did a dance and sometimes it went FSD and when you tapped the panel (sometimes) it would come back down - go figure

 

[television]

It's standard carbon film by the looks of it. Can these go intermittently short?

I ran the engine up to temperature with the binnacle out and a multimeter on the temp sensor pin, the resistance stayed steady.

I have a gauge cluster from a pre-facelift 320, it has a different PCB layout to mine but the same connector, I might just sub that in and go for a spin, at least it'll prove if it's the sensor/wiring or the gauge.

Carbon film are quite stable unless they show visual signs of stress, they cant go short circuit, when I think of the life that I have lost with intermitent faults.

Malcolm

 

[Hibbo]

I'm sure it is just a gauge problem, not a cooling problem, as it SHOOTS up to FSD, and SHOOTS back down. It can stay there for 10mins, a tap and it drops INSTANTLY to 85c.

If I could even get to the sender (stupid 606 intake manifold again ) I'd run a wire straight from it to the pin (CAREFULLY taking pin 2 out of the plug ) on the cluster and go for a spin.

I hear you Malcolm - incredibly annoying!

 

[television]

I'm sure it is just a gauge problem, not a cooling problem, as it SHOOTS up to FSD, and SHOOTS back down. It can stay there for 10mins, a tap and it drops INSTANTLY to 85c.

If I could even get to the sender (stupid 606 intake manifold again ) I'd run a wire straight from it to the pin (CAREFULLY taking pin 2 out of the plug ) on the cluster and go for a spin.

I hear you Malcolm - incredibly annoying!

Can you access both terminals on the gauge, if it shoots up to max is the sensor in the - lead or the + you should measure when its ok and again when faulty, try that test on both terminals.

Malcolm