Door Catch adjustment: Calling all Tech capable...

230ceBruno

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I was wondering if anyone can help with Door Catch adjustment for a 124. To give a little background these door can get kind of difficult to close requiring more than one attempt. Being a coupe some issues lie with the contact point of the glass window with the door frame. In this case I think the catch is out of wack too.

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With a coupe you have very long doors, over the years they can drop at the rear (not helped when folk lean on them when open) to set it up you must remove the striker plate, then push the door closed, if its to low at the rear, you either shim the front bottom hinge or jack the door at the rear so that the door closes and in line. Re fit the striker plate so the when the door is closed it sits 1mm proud on the rear wing
 
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230ceBruno

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Hi Malcom, I think I got most of what you said except for all of it. Not really. I am just stuck with the use of/context of "proud" in relation to the rear. The strike plate is the latch to fixed to the rear pillar which recieves the door catch when it closes?
 

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Hi Malcom, I think I got most of what you said except for all of it. Not really. I am just stuck with the use of/context of "proud" in relation to the rear. The strike plate is the latch to fixed to the rear pillar which recieves the door catch when it closes?

OK when closed the back edge should stick out 1mm from the front edge of the rear wing, the idea being that it stops wind noise.

And yes the striker plate is the one that the door lock closes onto
 
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230ceBruno

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Thanx Malcom, as usual very helpful.

PS Jack rear (inviting more stress to the hinge?) or Shim front which do you recommend?
 
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stevesey

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OK when closed the back edge should stick out 1mm from the front edge of the rear wing, the idea being that it stops wind noise.
Not heard of that one before - can see that below flush would create a problem, but proud really reduce wind noise?
 

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Bruno

I doubt if it really is out.

The point being that Merc sealing is so effective that it is the resitance of the air that often stops it shutting first time.

If you leave a window or sun roof slightly ajar you will be able to close it very effectively first time every time and thus proves the point.

By meddling with it you will make it worse.

Merc themselves use a jig to set the door closure.
 

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Not heard of that one before - can see that below flush would create a problem, but proud really reduce wind noise?

Yes this is standard set up procedure and in the coach builders bible
 
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230ceBruno

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Actually you could all have a point as I have previously tried to reposition the strike plate.

I need to get it back to OEM standard.

Recommendations required pls
 
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stevesey

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Yes this is standard set up procedure and in the coach builders bible

Just checked my w202 and the rear door panels are flus, but the window surrounds being slightly below the C-pillars. Tried to adjust but the strikers have two plastic pins that locate then on the body - the only way to get any adjustment appears to be to trim the pins down!

Shame, as at speed there does seem to be more wind noise from the back of the car - possibly the C-pilllar area rather then the floor/boot (although i have yet to get a rear seat passenger to give their opinion/try to pinpoint any specific source). I'll do thet before attacking the striker plates with a stanley knife.
 

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Sit in the rear seat with a piece of paper and see how easily it slides into the gap between the draught excluder and the door.
 

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Could the hinge pins and bushes be worn allowing the door to sag?
 

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Could the hinge pins and bushes be worn allowing the door to sag?

Yes I think that they could be,just by opening the door and lifting at the rear would show this, 1mm at the hinge could show up as 5mm at the catch end of the door
 
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