DPF Forced regeneration with iCarsoft MB V3.0

[ermu1973]

what was your RPM while time? in which gear you drive ? 30 minutes ?

 

[mioba]

what was your RPM while time? in which gear you drive ? 30 minutes ?

Hi Welcome

 

[ermu1973]

Hi Welcome

thx!

 

[Davy russell]

With reference to the notes in the above post - I've assembled the screenshots of the steps involved in this regen procedure with the iCarsoft MB v3.0
A couple of the slides are readings from the "next page" when there's too many items to display on one screen.

I'm hoping this youtube link will work, please let me know if it doesn't.

Tried this twice today , with same diagnostic tool , 360% blocked. After a quarter tank of fuel , no joy . I drove in manual 1st gear rpm 3000 , getting about 35kmh heat in sensor didn't go any higher than 175 . Can i ask , did you switch eco off? Struggling with this after 2 goes. Next move will be to ditch the dpf , they are such a pain.
Cheers
Davy

 

[Davy russell]

With reference to the notes in the above post - I've assembled the screenshots of the steps involved in this regen procedure with the iCarsoft MB v3.0
A couple of the slides are readings from the "next page" when there's too many items to display on one screen.

I'm hoping this youtube link will work, please let me know if anyone aware of any issues why this process would not complete when following this. The eml is reset when the dof calculation is done. Should it still be active ? Is it possible a sensor is stopping the forced regen ?

 

[tpn]

I have done this to a few cars. Normally you get a reading of 400%. It is a false flag and near the end of the slides you can see that the differential pressure switch is faulty or disconnected. You will not get a proper regen with that. Incidentally what is the exhaust back pressure?
You have to change the differential pressure switch before you can proceed. Also make sure that the tubes are not blocked
Wasting your time otherwise and causing impurities to get into the oil that can quickly make your timing chain rattle.
Unfortunately I am rushing to go to a showjumping meeting so a very quick observation

 

[ermu1973]

Hi Welcome

so i succes with that. Thank you!!! You are my hero.

OK happy to assist - I just uploaded all the 40+ screenshots and just need to collect my info....

Whitegold you are my hero. I did like on your photos with icarsoft mb3.0 . my dpf was 402 % and i also had error pressure sensor dpf. I drive 30 minutes , 2000-4000 rpm, mostly 3000. ik second gear. yes eco was first on and than off but on the end of 30 minutes i receptie message regeneration aborted. But still when i check dpf was 100% en than later 60-% and on the end 0%, Still mercedes c w204 from 2012 was in limb mode , no drive more than 3000 rpm.I change pressure sensor dpf and car is now like a new! But, one think i do you didn’t is i put some product i reservoir tank . It’s some Belgian product FAP dpf cleaner , cost 30 euro. I had half tank.

 

[chopper_harris]

Folks

A note to warn any potential buyer of an icarsoft unit, I purchased an icarsoft MB3 unit to force a regen after replacing the forward DPF temp sender.


White gold was very helpful with his MB3 step by step picture collage, but I hit a fault in the MB3 on my ML250.
The regen process fails during a DPF fill level recalculate stage, and exits.

The only codes present are for DPF overfill, and two codes related to wing mirror heating circuits?

Support from icarsoft has been non existent, Barnett Davies has made several empty promises to provide a response, and is now ignoring my emails.

If anyone in the Warrington to Preston area has access to a Mercedes Star unit, and can help me to force a regen, I would be pleased to hear from you.


If you do buy an icarsoft unit, don't expect any level of support, they are truly pathetic

 

[harrye500]

Chooper I don't lknow anyone with Star but there is MBTech the MB indy in Warrington.

 

[whitegold]

I have done this to a few cars. Normally you get a reading of 400%. It is a false flag and near the end of the slides you can see that the differential pressure switch is faulty or disconnected. You will not get a proper regen with that. Incidentally what is the exhaust back pressure?
You have to change the differential pressure switch before you can proceed. Also make sure that the tubes are not blocked
Wasting your time otherwise and causing impurities to get into the oil that can quickly make your timing chain rattle.
Unfortunately I am rushing to go to a showjumping meeting so a very quick observation

Hi thanks for the reply - the fault you noticed in my slides is an historic event - not current status - my understanding is that only current faults will block the regen or indeed any other resets.
The previous intermittent fault that had filled my dpf was the cyl1 bank1 temperature sensor that had been replaced with a Ridex equivalent item.
It was only after swapping this out for an original MB sensor that the dpf system became usable again.

 

[chopper_harris]

I thought it may be useful to close off my experience with the icarsoft MB3.

I couldn't make any progress with icarsoft tech support, Barnett Davies is not up to the job and appears to ignore complex support requests. This is well documented across other threads.

I ordered an Autel 906 unit, which has comprehensive multi brand support, plus a litre of Launch dpf cleaning fluid.

The initial DPF pressure differential was 32mb at idle, rising to 170mb at 3000 rpm.

The DPF differential pressure sensor is at the rear of the block on the OM651, requiring removal of the Ecu and air filter unit.

I removed the upstream DPF temp sender and injected the cleaning solution diluted 50/50 with the engine at idle.

Launch promote their own injection gun, but I found that an old wax spray gun worked perfectly.
Several 5 sec bursts at 40psi injected the 1ltr of diluted fluid evenly across the surface of the DPF honeycomb.

I replaced the upstream DPF temp sensor and monitored the live data of the differential pressure on the Autel 906.

Immediately, I saw the trace begin to drop, falling to around 28mb at 3000 rpm after a few minutes.
At idle, the differential pressure was 11mb, which is an acceptable figure for a healthy DPF.

A 15 minute drive saw the figures fall a little further, with a differential pressure of 7mb at idle.

I used the Autel to set a 'teach_in', or adaptation for a new DPF.
The fault codes and limp mode cleared, and the car is running perfectly.

I also performed an oil and filter change.

The Autel and Launch fluid quickly enabled me to rectify the stubborn DPF issue without having to perform a forced regen on a very heavily loaded DPF, which can cause permanent DPF damage.

The icarsoft MB3 doesn't have a DPF teach_in function, and I couldn't have performed these tasks.

There are many folks who try to push the MB Star clone units, which come with significant technical gotchas.
The icarsoft unit may be useful for routine code monitoring, but the documentation and tech support stink.

I can certainly recommend buying or finding an Indy with an Autel unit.

 

[Davy russell]

Need to force DPF Regeneration - W204 Bluetec C220cdi MY2012. (DPF Fill level is >200%)
There's conflicting info all over the place on this topic, a certain amount of which seems to be from the sellers of various other Diagnostic Kit, and purveyors of magic remedies to fix the DPF warning / 3000rpm situation.
After reading numerous favourable reviews of the iCarsoft MB V3.0 I've recently bought one to see if it lives up to its reputation.
Now done a couple of tries following the onscreen instructions, but I've not persuaded it to trigger the "Regeneration while driving" which follows on from the sequence of doing the "Static Fill Test"
Have read that Forced Regen won't happen if ECO start/stop is active, but perhaps this is speculation. Since it's about an hour-long procedure, and a painful drive around on back roads in first gear, I'm now getting reluctant to do much more "Trial and Error".
Looking for advice on this iCarsoft MB V3.0 - maybe I'm probably missing something obvious in the procedure.
Thanks for all and any replies!

I bought one mb3 and couldn't get it to regenerate after 3 tries. I got a guy George in Scotland called George to do a hho carbon clean and injector clean and went for a 30 minute drive and he also managed the dpf clean first time. So I'm thinking I spent 175 quid on a dud copy. I paid him 105 pounds for this which I thought reasonable. I also changed my pressure switch myself before he arrived . I tried the mb3 after the pressure switch change to no avail. I'm still getting a very occasional limp mode , which I think could be a maf sensor or a leak in the air intake , but no codes at all on the mb3. Can't remember the name of George's diagnostic machine , but he paid a grand for it and does all cars. George is based in East Scotland and is always busy with this and making a good living in it. One of the pains of dpf on Mercedes is it doesn't indicate when it is doing or attempting or needing a dpf clean.

 

[BiTurboMercedes]

When the DPF fill level is exceeds the readable amount at over 400% full and the ECU refuses to regenerate, it's time to take matters into your own hands by removing it and cleaning it.

I rigorously bathed it and washed out the ash with degreaser then with diluted hydrochloric acid to remove soot.

I was told by my Master Auto Technician that since the car had driven over 260,000kms, it had reached end of life and must be replaced. A new one from Mercedes is about $3000. I cleaned it back to new condition for $25 in material and a day of labour.
After reassembling everything back together, my scan tool said the fill level was 1%.
Fking nice

The degreaser started life as a bright pink colour and HCL was clear. The resulting liquids were disgusting.
I believe that since the contaminants are solids and not soluble in their respective liquids, I may be able to use a very fine filter to clean the liquids and maybe reuse them in the future. We shall see.

The puc from TorquePro is a week later and shows that the ECU is performing a regeneration without my intervention while I'm driving as depicted by the high temp of the pre CAT sensor. This is normal behaviour when the DPF is is detected as working normally.

MaYbE iT wAs YoUr DiFfErEnTiAl PrEsSuRe SeNsOr ThAt WaS fAuLtY!
No, it wasn't. Before performing the manual cleaning, I changed the sensor, confirming it was not the issue.

A MASSIVE thanks to Steven B Turner for his efforts in testing which was used in my cleaning process. His YouTube channel is below.

https://youtube.com/@StevenBTuner

 

[M80]

BiTurboMercede​

I would check the source of your Torque 'Cat' reading, that looks like the DPF temp while in regen.

'If' you are able to monitor Cat temp and DPF temp you should see the Cat temp to be a fair bit higher than the DPF during normal running. During a regen the DPF temp rises to be higher than the Cat. You should see that state for 6 - 10 miles approx.
While getting the Cat up to that temp is possible it would take some caning, and not so easy to keep it up there. At 23% load the temp would fall off rapidly.

 

[BiTurboMercedes]

BiTurboMercede​

I would check the source of your Torque 'Cat' reading, that looks like the DPF temp while in regen.

'If' you are able to monitor Cat temp and DPF temp you should see the Cat temp to be a fair bit higher than the DPF during normal running. During a regen the DPF temp rises to be higher than the Cat. You should see that state for 6 - 10 miles approx.
While getting the Cat up to that temp is possible it would take some caning, and not so easy to keep it up there. At 23% load the temp would fall off rapidly.

I cross checked the sensor between Torque and the iCarSoft tool and they're the same item. This is the only exhaust temp sensor between the turbo outlet and end of the DPF and is located immediately before the CAT, so I'd have to assume that all CAT and DPF temps are taken from this sensor. The DPF temp may very well be much higher than what this sensor is showing but on this vehicle there is no alternate way to measure the DPF temp.
You're correct that the temp was elevated for about 10-15 or so minutes from the time I noticed it.
What I noticed was that even at idle, stopped in traffic, the temp remained very high. The engine load was normal at 23% even without the regen.
The only indication of a regen taking place was the elevated pre cat temp. Normally at a stop in traffic, it'll settle down to about 230c.

 

[M80]

It's the DPF temp on Torque that tells me it's in regen also.
Anything from 140 to 500 is common in normal running.
I've set Torque to flash above 525, it'll rise to over 600 easily, but a bit lower if stood. If given choice I might drop a gear to keep temp around 700+, for a faster / better incineration.

On this one I can't monitor the Cat, but on a previous V6 the Cat wasn't affected by a regen, after all it's all happening in the DPF.

 

[ajlsl600]

Hi thanks for the reply - the fault you noticed in my slides is an historic event - not current status - my understanding is that only current faults will block the regen or indeed any other resets.
The previous intermittent fault that had filled my dpf was the cyl1 bank1 temperature sensor that had been replaced with a Ridex equivalent item.
It was only after swapping this out for an original MB sensor that the dpf system became usable again.

Is that because ridex was rubbish or benz organising that system will not accept non genuine, did u send it back .? Most sensors are fairly basic eg wheel speed sensors. I think nox sensors are somewhat more complex but still cost makers about 20 quid.

 

[chopper_harris]

I cross checked the sensor between Torque and the iCarSoft tool and they're the same item. This is the only exhaust temp sensor between the turbo outlet and end of the DPF and is located immediately before the CAT, so I'd have to assume that all CAT and DPF temps are taken from this sensor. The DPF temp may very well be much higher than what this sensor is showing but on this vehicle there is no alternate way to measure the DPF temp.
You're correct that the temp was elevated for about 10-15 or so minutes from the time I noticed it.
What I noticed was that even at idle, stopped in traffic, the temp remained very high. The engine load was normal at 23% even without the regen.
The only indication of a regen taking place was the elevated pre cat temp. Normally at a stop in traffic, it'll settle down to about 230c.

This is incorrect, there are temp sensors upstream of BOTH the catalytic converter and the DPF

Part #200 is the Lambda sensor
Part #270 is the temp sensor upstream of the catalytic converter
Part #260 is the temp sensor upstream of the DPF

Part #100 is the upstream line to the DPF diff pressure sensor
Part #105 is the downstream line to the DPF diff pressure sensor

Part #220 is the NOx sensor

As I described earlier, the port for the temp sensor upstream of the DPF is where I injected the Launch DPF cleaning fluid, which cleaned out the DPF and enabled me to perform a DPF 'teach-in' to reset the DPF calibration and eliminate the DPF codes and limp mode.

 

[BiTurboMercedes]

This is incorrect, there are temp sensors upstream of BOTH the catalytic converter and the DPF

Part #200 is the Lambda sensor
Part #270 is the temp sensor upstream of the catalytic converter
Part #260 is the temp sensor upstream of the DPF

Part #100 is the upstream line to the DPF diff pressure sensor
Part #105 is the downstream line to the DPF diff pressure sensor

Part #220 is the NOx sensor

As I described earlier, the port for the temp sensor upstream of the DPF is where I injected the Launch DPF cleaning fluid, which cleaned out the DPF and enabled me to perform a DPF 'teach-in' to reset the DPF calibration and eliminate the DPF codes and limp mode.

You're right. After posting, I thought about what I had seen and realised what I said was completely wrong. I wanted to correct my statement but forgot about it.
Thank you for correcting me and informing the community.

 

[ajlsl600]

This is incorrect, there are temp sensors upstream of BOTH the catalytic converter and the DPF

Part #200 is the Lambda sensor
Part #270 is the temp sensor upstream of the catalytic converter
Part #260 is the temp sensor upstream of the DPF

Part #100 is the upstream line to the DPF diff pressure sensor
Part #105 is the downstream line to the DPF diff pressure sensor

Part #220 is the NOx sensor

As I described earlier, the port for the temp sensor upstream of the DPF is where I injected the Launch DPF cleaning fluid, which cleaned out the DPF and enabled me to perform a DPF 'teach-in' to reset the DPF calibration and eliminate the DPF codes and limp mode.

Well done.. easy to understand, I hope the makers of these sensors are not providing sensors for next manned space flight. 500 to go will be a bit of a disappointment!!!