Drivers window - up but not down!

[ripples]

thanks alex. Yes the HD cable has a funny square grey cover that doesnt seem to want to come off easily. There is no obvious way for it to go - any ideas?

 

[ripples]

Ok I finally got the CCM out and it sounds like there is something loose in one of the black boxes in the top right of frame.

Does anyone have a schematic of this module?

 

[television]

That would be too hard to get hold of, they look like closed relays to me in the picture

http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Mercedes-Benz/1997/E420/SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS/6290.pdf

 

[ripples]

Malcolm,

A quick google tells me you're right - they are twin relays setup in such a way that only one can be fired at a time; both relays output goes to ground by default, and when one is triggered it feeds +ve voltage to that line. A clever way of reversing the polarity for the window motors.

I'm having trouble getting the relay out but when I do I'll post some more.

 

[television]

I use de soldering suckers but only good if the pins are not too tight in the PCB one way to remove them is to put a thin screwdriver between the relay and the PCB, heat up the pins and the relay will lift a touch, just keep melting the solder on each pin in turn while keeping pressure on the screwdriver, moving it around helps.

You can buy a sucker from Maplins circa £4 or get a coil of solder wick that sucks off the solder

 

[ripples]

Replace CCM - Do part numbers need to match 100%

I found a replacement CCM for 100 USD and I wonder if all the various numbers need to match.

What do the below actually mean?

TEMIC 335625 97W19
HW : 17/96
SW:08/95

The closest match I have there is the first which has 97W32, whereas my CCM has 97W19.

The first three images are of the potential replacements, last is of my unit.

Thanks for your help!

 

[ripples]

Ok thanks for your help everyone, I got it fixed.

Couldn't get the relays out with a soldering iron, just too tightly packed in there.

couldn't find a desoldering sucker for love or money either (I am in Geneva) but the other weekend I was in London and found one for 14 quid at Maplins.

Had the relays out in ten minutes, switched over the front and rear drivers side, and it works.

I cut the relay open and found the problem was not dirty or arced contacts as I suspected but a mechanical failure : relay would fire but the tiny little copper arm was warped and it would buckle under load instead of moving and making contact. I fixed it by bending it around a bit, but I didn't put it back because it will surely fail again.

Anyway, better late than never, problem solved. Thanks again.

Phil