E 320 ignition lock sticking

moonrabbit

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I am having a problem with getting my key into the ignition, with a little jiggling it will go in but it wont go in smoothly. Does anybody have any ideas, does it need replacing or a dab of WD40. How easy would it be to replace. Thank you in anticipation of your brilliant advice. :D
 

television

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2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
I am having a problem with getting my key into the ignition, with a little jiggling it will go in but it wont go in smoothly. Does anybody have any ideas, does it need replacing or a dab of WD40. How easy would it be to replace. Thank you in anticipation of your brilliant advice. :D

Not WD40 locksmiths sell white grease so do MB made for this purpose
 
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moonrabbit

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Thank you Malcom, will try the grease, hopefully it will work, cant bear the idea of replacing the whole ignition. Everyday I cant get the key in unless I twist it gently left and right, then it clicks (as if unlocking) and then the key slides in perfectly. Will keep you posted. Thank you - Moonrabbit
 

television

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Your Mercedes
2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
Thank you Malcom, will try the grease, hopefully it will work, cant bear the idea of replacing the whole ignition. Everyday I cant get the key in unless I twist it gently left and right, then it clicks (as if unlocking) and then the key slides in perfectly. Will keep you posted. Thank you - Moonrabbit

The problem with oils and WD40 is that it can cause the levers to stick more than they do now.

you do not say what car it is, but on those where the gearshift is locked with the key out you could try a gentle movement of the shift lever while getting the key in or out.
 

Bolide

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BMW 525 Diesel Touring
Assuming this is an older car like a W124 you need to change the lock barrel asap. When they fail the barrel becomes nigh-on impossible to remove and you need a locksmith to do the job

A barrel keyed to your car is about £65 from a dealer and takes a few days to arrive from Germany. I'd leave the key in till then

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 

television

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Then Moonrabbit, I would take the advice of Bolide, and do that.
 

wireman

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nice 201 2.5D 1993 & very nice 129 SL500 1994
Bolide is spot on your lock will get worse.
Do not try any kind wet lubricant on any lock as Television says it gums up their gubbins. Real lock smiths use dry lubricants, graphite flake being the oldest and most reliable but there are PTFE aerosols available which will probably be satisfactory.
WD40 is a water displacer and as such works well, as a lubricant its fine for an hour or two and then it goes gummy this is not very good for sliding surfaces such as the tumblers in a barrel lock. The gum residue also leaves sticky and eventualy electricaly poor coatings on HT leads which can of course kill off the ignition system, If you do use it wipe it and the water off ASAP.
The problems with barrel locks wearing are often due to grit and the like being inserted into the key hole along with the key and staying in there when the key is withdrawn, wipe the key clear of any gunge and the locks will last longer.
My car belonged to a plasterer for 16 years and I have 4 wonky key holes and two badly worn keys, presumably due to the abrasive nature of the muck in his pockets.
 


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