E270 CDi - Drivers Side Mirror Motor & Indicator Repeater LED's Not Working

Martian

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E270 Aventgarde, (2005) CLK 320 AMG Convertible, (2002)
All,

I recently purchased an E270 CDi MY2005 that would appear to be in very good fettle, (hopefully not tempting fate), other than the drivers door mirror and indicator repeater LED's not working.

I removed the door card just to check that the door module had all the connectors plugged in correctly.

Here is the door module: -

upload_2020-6-3_17-7-15.png

I took a look at the circuit board but it will be difficult to repair without schematics - should I ever have the need to do so!

Although I could have monitored the various outputs, (from the module to the door mirror), I considered it to be just as quick to remove the door mirror and pick up the various feeds from there!

This was not quite as simple as it first appeared as when I found time to remove the door mirror, (and check the wiring for the mirror motors and indicator LED's), I found that I had not got the right Torx bit!

The mirror retaining bolts are 5 point HOLLOW Torx, (T20 or T25 - I can't remember the exact size - apologies), obviously so as it reduces the risk of an 'opportunist' thief pinching the mirror presumably?

Here is one of the retaining bolts: -

upload_2020-6-3_17-24-48.png

Once I had obtained a suitable set of 5 Point Hollow Torx bits I removed the mirror, (there is NO need to remove the door card as the two cables can be unplugged from the Door Module by removing the cosmetic cover on the inside of the door immediately below the Tweeter).

The two inner bolts are quite difficult to access and you can't use a straight shaft without snagging the mirror body so I simply used the Torx bit and turned it with a small pair of molegrips - although a pair of pliers would have worked just as well.

Once I had removed the mirror there was nothing obvious to cause me any concern, (but the mirror was in the extended, normal, position), so when I plugged it back into the Door Module and 'retracted' the mirror I was greeted by the following 'mess'!!

upload_2020-6-3_17-27-26.png

Six of the cables were completely broken and one was still intact, (the insulation had not been cut), but the conductors had been severed! Ironically 4 of the cables were colour coded but the remaining three were not - they were all black!!

A close up . . .

upload_2020-6-3_17-34-49.png

As I didn't want to waste time by having to remake connections I paid close attention to the exact lengths of the severed cables in order to ascertain which black cables went to which and I got it right first time fortunately with no incorrect connections!

I simply soldered very short pieces of thin gauge cable onto the severed cables and then used heat shrink to insulate them all and the mirrors and indicator now work as normal and the error message is no longer present on the dash!!

This is no doubt a common problem - due to the high number of mirror retract actions undertaken over several years and is, therefore, not too much of a surprise?

I believe that there is also an auto mirror dimming and heater function, too, but haven't had the right circumstances to test these functions yet but I have every confidence they will be ok too - otherwise it will be out with the soldering iron once again!

I hope that this may be of benefit to some of you and is my first attempt at reciprocating your very kind responses to MY earlier enquiries - although I hope that I will not be getting too intimately acquainted with my new acquisition too soon!
 

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AMGeed

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Nice write up for anyone else with non operational mirrors.

You'll probably find similarly broken wires in the n/s boot hinge under the protective cover.
Not a great design for them to break either folding the mirrors or closing the boot over a period of time.
Here's what I found in the boot.
20180406_140111.jpg
 
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Martian

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Just as an aside you could effect repairs with the mirror in situ as you simply pull the mirror glass away from its mounting plate, (a simple 'click fit), and you then have full access if you don't mind soldering whilst standing?

If you do decide to work on the mirtor in situ you will need to drape a sheet over the door to stop any errant solder from falling onto the door paintwork of course!
 
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Martian

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Nice write up for anyone else with non operational mirrors.

You'll probably find similarly broken wires in the n/s boot hinge under the protective cover.
Not a great design for them to break either folding the mirrors or closing the boot over a period of time.
Here's what I found in the boot.
View attachment 58859


Yes the result of cables that run along an 'articulated' route!

Not come across this issue too many times, however, which has to be a bonus!
 

AntMB

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I did this to my left hand mirror, need to do it to the right hand as the glass heater is stuck on and the motor doesn't move the glass around properly. I've bought some 0.5mm tri rated cable to rewire the lot.
 
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Martian

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And I committed a cardinal sin by forgetting to highlight the importance of disconnecting the battery, (before commencing any electrical work on the vehicle), just to cover the H&S aspects.

Apologies.
 

Blobcat

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And I committed a cardinal sin by forgetting to highlight the importance of disconnecting the battery, (before commencing any electrical work on the vehicle), just to cover the H&S aspects.

Apologies.
I prefer working live, gives an air of excitement :p:D:cool: - I get my "kicks" where I can these days :rolleyes:
 

AntMB

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When I did the mirror, I unplugged it and worked on it indoors.
 
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Martian

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When I did the mirror, I unplugged it and worked on it indoors.

Although I unplugged mine I actually worked on it on my lap whilst sitting in the drivers seat!!

I even brought my Solder Station and Heat Gun into the car too!

I am so used to working in awkward locations that I rarely use the work bench!!

Possibly due to my spending a lot of time working on my bikes!!
 
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Martian

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I prefer working live, gives an air of excitement :p:D:cool: - I get my "kicks" where I can these days :rolleyes:

I am well versed in working with high voltages and high currents and vehicle electrics are pretty tame in comparison as the low voltage is not of any real concern.

But the high current can cause a few issues - especially when mixed with highly volatile liquids and gasses!!
 

AntMB

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I've got tons of time, not driven my wagon since March after loading up an an auction. So should whip the mirror off and do it. I'll be driving it again once my parking sensor turns up, too big to park without one, so been using our Golf to get to work.
 
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Martian

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I've got tons of time, not driven my wagon since March after loading up an an auction. So should whip the mirror off and do it. I'll be driving it again once my parking sensor turns up, too big to park without one, so been using our Golf to get to work.

I have driven quite a few 'large' vehicles but haven't agree that these are definitely LARGE!
 

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