EIS C270 cdi w203

Nigelmark

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Please can someone clarify? This information leads to one question at end please???

I have Y plate 2001 C 270 cdi Avantgarde Auto. Over the years I've had a few Mercedes and a fair few key, ecu, steering lock issues too. Except for simple electrical testing and fitting of plug and play parts I have had to get specialist help when keys involved and security.
A month ago I threw out my key by accident big mistake.
First person I called provided a key and said they could get in car, they did picking it, and then took eis off programmed with password to work. Ok it did lock unlock car and when in slot turned on all dash lights but did not crank also released steering lock. The dash said reading data and with google further reading said it might take 7 hrs. Waste of time did not work. I know the eis had been changed before I had the car but it worked fine for years. Ok I then have no choice but to get my Mercedes guy from Birmingham out.
He says somehow the first person messed up codes. So he takes off ecu virginises it matches the key and the whole thing works fine. Im at three hundred now OMG.

With it all working now the car has a battery drain on negative side of around 1.4 amps when off and key out. After every fuse and relay out I find minor changes only with discharge from fuse 45,relay out/airbag 64,command and relay M Start relay/ignition Note when I connect battery with everything off this relay clicks on!!!!!

The up shot is I get to fuse 31 Start Enable in cabin its 20 amp. Once out the discharge goes down to 0.30 amps great. Also after discussion with the person who did ecu I find if I pull the white plug on eis this also drops amp discharge to nothing nearly 0.09 amp. For now I put a safety switch breaking negative and just switch on when using the car no problem. I am told the eis should draw little current after switch off like sleep mode. Here are my two questions please. When key in the eis draws around 2.12 amps measuring on negative side.


Does anyone agree that jump starting with key in could have knackered the EIS??? I did maybe do that!

My next step is to replace eis again and just get the key programmed. The question is on c class how many have the same eis box? Are the diesel and petrol the same or different?
The reason I ask is that on e bay ect the price varies from £25-00 to £200-00 Could anyone please say models the eis is the same on??


Not trying to start huge discussion just thoughts on the two questions please.

Thanking anyone Nigel
 

mersum1es

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W212/-09/350CDI, W219/-07/320CDI, EX:W220/-01/320CDI, EX:W211/-04/320CDI, EX:W210/-01/270CDI
I doubt it is EIS itself. You must dig part number, and cross check EPC.

Is your command buzzing when battery connected? That's most common culprit for current draw... but if that has no big effect, it is probably something else...
Then you have few places which are not behind fuses; Alternator (though modern voltage regulator usually won't fail so they would keep drawing current), test by removing wire. Breather heater, test by removing connector. Heater booster, test by removing connector (usually draw is much more is heater fails).
 
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Nigelmark

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I doubt it is EIS itself. You must dig part number, and cross check EPC.

Is your command buzzing when battery connected? That's most common culprit for current draw... but if that has no big effect, it is probably something else...
Then you have few places which are not behind fuses; Alternator (though modern voltage regulator usually won't fail so they would keep drawing current), test by removing wire. Breather heater, test by removing connector. Heater booster, test by removing connector (usually draw is much more is heater fails).
 

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