EIS Repair Success on my 2002 SL55 AMG (R230)

bluesl

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You don't have to watch the forum long before coming to realise that the Mercedes EIS (Electronic Ignition Switch) is a major source of problems, especially as the car gets older. It's a complex piece of electronics which has the job of recognizing the right key is inserted before it can be turned and used to start the car and in checking its identity with the shift lever controller and the engine management ECU to make sure all three belong to the same car. It also releases the mechanical steering column lock. The challenge is that since all three of these components are coded, you can't simply swap parts over with known good ones.

I had an unusual fault in that the car would start perfectly on Keyless Go but rarely if ever on the key. I could insert the key and turn it but when I tried to start the car, there was almost always just a "grunt" from the engine. Various places had a go at fixing it - PSC Automotive in Cheltenham were hopeless, they replaced the starter motor claiming it was burned out. It wasn't. The Mercedes dealer wanted me to spend £1100 replacing the shift lever "as a first step" with no guarantee this would fix the problem. The SL Shop in Stratford were all style over substance and got nowhere except a large bill.

I had already gone to some lengths to investigate the problem and my findings were completely ignored by the Mercedes dealer "expert" who had only ever been trained to believe what the diagnostics were telling him which was nothing.

First, some basic facts. One, the battery in the key plays no role whatever in starting the car. You can start the car without a battery even in the key. Once the key is inserted, it is surrounded by an induction coil which - like cordless charging on a phone - powers that part of the key needed to send its identity through the infra-red window at the end. Once recogised and verified, the barrel unlocks and you can turn the key. Microswitches then activate the switched battery voltage.

When it comes to actually starting the car, the CAN BUS is used to get the three units to talk to each other and when all is OK, the engine ECU grounds a line from the green starter relay. That energises the starter solonoid and then the starter motor.

Take a look at this data logger trace showing a normal start. The blue line is the switched battery voltage and the yellow line is the voltage on the starter relay. The two traces are separated vertically for clarity. The arrowheads on the left side show the level of 0 volts. The horizontal scale is time, 1 second per interval. So in this case, I turn the key at 3 seconds, and to the start position at 5.5 seconds. The relay line is grounded to 0v for nearly a second, the engine cranks and starts and the blue and yellow voltages increase as the alternator comes online.

Normal Start.JPG

Compare that with the fault condition. Exactly the same as before except the yellow pulse does not last long enough to get the engine started. The "grunt" is just the starter motor being energised for a fraction of the second.

Failure Start.JPG

So the Mercedes dealer diagnosed a faulty shift lever (even though all was well with Keyless Go) and the SL Shop diagnosed a wiring fault between the EIS and the Shift Lever, even though a look at the circuit diagram would have told them there is no such connection. Talk about clutching at straws. £99 diagnostic charge from Mercedes, £298 from the SL Shop. Useless, the pair of them.

I lived with it for a while but decided to finally get it fixed and took the EIS to Autotronics in Leicester who at first did a standard repair covering the most likely faults but which did not solve the problem. They advised me then to heat the EIS in situ with a hair dryer. Bingo! Heat it up, the problem goes away, let it cool down, the problems returns, completely repeatable. The EIS has been back to them a second time and they have replaced a microprocessor and the EIS is working perfectly. Cost, £288, a quarter of what Mercedes wanted to charge to go down a blind alley and less than the SL Shop charged before they washed their hands of it.

Other posts here talk about cold EIS starting problems and one in particular refers to another company whose recommendation was just to go to Mercedes for a replacement because replacing the microprocessor damages other components due to heat. The point is, surface mount technology and flexible printed circuit boards are how things are these days and if you set yourself up to be an automotive electronics repair company, you'd better have the skills and equipment to handle surface mount. In practice, you ditch the traditional soldering iron and solder for a hot air gun and then use the right materials (solder paste and flux) to prepare the board to receive the new component. You also need to ability to source replacement parts. Autotronics came up trumps.

So Autotronics are the heroes of this little saga, I wish I had known about and gone straight to them. Very efficient admin and tracking, on the ball engineers. Highly recommended and I would use them again without hesitation. www.autotronics.co.uk
 

00slk

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I had same problem with our first r230, took it to LG Motor Services in Swaffham who had diagnosed it as in the EIS. It would only start when it was heated with a heat gun. The switch was removed and sent to Johnnysbc here on the forum. My bill was just under £300 from start to finish.
 
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bluesl

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I think we need an LG Motor Services here in the Cotwolds! Sadly, my prolonged journey to get this fixed has cost three times that, thanks to three Mercedes self-proclaimed "specialists" failing to deliver. Still, it's fixed and I can move on to sorting out the PSE pump, the leaky steering rack, the throttle position sensor, the TPMS sensors, the worn track rod, the ABS light and on and on. It's easy to see why it's depreciated as much as it has and less than 45000 miles.
 

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With the move away from lead in solder the are many incidences of “fingers” growing and shorting out surface mount components. By re-flashing the solder with a hot air “iron soldering iron” you can get rid of them and get the circuits working again.
 
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bluesl

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I think this fault is quite common and a failure of the chip itself so replacement was the only option. I had previously had the EIS apart hoping to find a bad connection or dry joint but was out of luck, it all looked pretty good.

0A14F440-4E8D-4EDF-A9BA-26F76DAFDD5E.jpeg
 
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bluesl

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You can see how the three circuit boards are connected by flexible links which fold up and over the black key barrel, the pins on the top right inserting into the holes on the bottom right.

In the centre of the middle board is the white infra-red transceiver which when the boards are folded aligns with the infra-red window on the end of the inserted key and allows contactless communication between the key and the EIS.

With no obvious fault, I was at the limit of my knowledge which is why I had to go for help from someone with experience of this device.
 

00slk

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What had happened to the eis on ours was a crack in the motherboard, which when warmed closed up, or I am assuming that is what happens when the heat was applied. Weigh above my knowledge of anything electrical.
My 55 has 134000 on it.
 
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bluesl

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Mine was not fixed until the chip was removed and replaced, hard to say whether it was the chip itself or the connections to it being remade which sorted it.

Reminds me of a friends old 911 where the engine stopped when somebody got into the passenger seat. Turned out it was enough to flex the circuit board in the ECU under the seat, a dry joint breaking circuit. I was hoping for a similar eureka moment when I took my EIS apart!
 

mioba

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Good write up and thanks for sharing.
A bit of hassle and burnt money, but you got there in the end.
Happy motoring
 

peterws1957

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I think we need an LG Motor Services here in the Cotwolds! Sadly, my prolonged journey to get this fixed has cost three times that, thanks to three Mercedes self-proclaimed "specialists" failing to deliver. Still, it's fixed and I can move on to sorting out the PSE pump, the leaky steering rack, the throttle position sensor, the TPMS sensors, the worn track rod, the ABS light and on and on. It's easy to see why it's depreciated as much as it has and less than 45000 miles.
Amazing how some specialists are, when it comes down to it, actually clueless. How they have the cheek to charge a diagnostic fee when they can't diagnose the problem. defeats me. Sounds as though you have a bit of a journey ahead with the SL!
 
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bluesl

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Sadly yes, I’ve owned it from new, been Main Dealer serviced throughout until I got the distinct impression they knew little about a (then) 17 year old car. I’m not one to skimp on maintenance at all but I do expect a proper job. Their mantra always was “it may be only worth £12k but it cost £96k and the maintenance costs reflect that”. Mine is a very early SL55 and back in the day, there were a lot of recalls. The core mechanicals are bullet proof, it’s the brakes/suspension/electronics meet hydraulics/pneumatics where the problems are.
 

00slk

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Sadly yes, I’ve owned it from new, been Main Dealer serviced throughout until I got the distinct impression they knew little about a (then) 17 year old car. I’m not one to skimp on maintenance at all but I do expect a proper job. Their mantra always was “it may be only worth £12k but it cost £96k and the maintenance costs reflect that”. Mine is a very early SL55 and back in the day, there were a lot of recalls. The core mechanicals are bullet proof, it’s the brakes/suspension/electronics meet hydraulics/pneumatics where the problems are.
Don't forget 'water' mine love's water, I think she might have been a dolphin in her previous life :rolleyes:
 
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bluesl

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Ah yes, I think my PSE pump problems may be linked to it having sat in its rain-soaked foam rubber shroud over winter albeit in the dry. If you take your R230 off the road for winter as I do, check the boot is bone dry and put a couple of drying cartridges inside before you cover the car up and connect the trickle charger.
 

Danny_Labrador

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So I have a problem with my 2006 SL350 (R230) which might be related to the above.

Essentially all my dashboard warning lights illuminate intermittently together with the rev counter/ speedo / fuel gauge and temp gauge all dropping to zero and coming back up again, (I have a video).

People have been helpful with suggestions of low voltage - but I have replaced the Consumer battery with top quality AGM and the problem persists.

Somewhere I came across the idea of playing hot air on the ignition switch area as a cure - thought it nuts but in desperation thought I would give it a go.

I placed a fan heater on the driver seat for two hours and drove the car without any issues at all. The next day I drove again with no heating and the problems were back within 2 mins of starting.

I thought this is crazy but decided to prove it one way or another with the fan heater again this morning. I have just come back from 40 mins drive with no problems at all.

Do you think this could be a faulty EIS ?? As detailed above ??
 

00slk

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Well, I would be the last person you'd want advice from, but heat seems to help out in damp situations, like me, the cold doesn't make me work very well at all, but put my space heater on in the garage and I feel like a teenager :D
But joking aside, it is a possibility that the heat is making things expand it tiny bit?
Keep the heat on, then see how it goes in Summer.
 

peterws1957

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So I have a problem with my 2006 SL350 (R230) which might be related to the above.

Essentially all my dashboard warning lights illuminate intermittently together with the rev counter/ speedo / fuel gauge and temp gauge all dropping to zero and coming back up again, (I have a video).

People have been helpful with suggestions of low voltage - but I have replaced the Consumer battery with top quality AGM and the problem persists.

Somewhere I came across the idea of playing hot air on the ignition switch area as a cure - thought it nuts but in desperation thought I would give it a go.

I placed a fan heater on the driver seat for two hours and drove the car without any issues at all. The next day I drove again with no heating and the problems were back within 2 mins of starting.

I thought this is crazy but decided to prove it one way or another with the fan heater again this morning. I have just come back from 40 mins drive with no problems at all.

Do you think this could be a faulty EIS ?? As detailed above ??
Intermittent faults seem difficult to diagnose. Unless you can get the car on STAR only guesswork. There may be a stored code which can be a starting point. Someone in your area might be able to suggest an MB indie to look at it for you.
 

Danny_Labrador

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This is a good thread and I posted above as I had the same / similar issues with the dashboard going mad.

My problem is resolved now and I post again - perhaps what I have to say may be of some use to someone - I hope so.

The first thing to say is that getting the car in front of an experienced automotive electrician equipped with a genuine Mercedes STAR diagnostic system is essential IMO. When you do this many things will come to light.

It immediately became clear on my car that there was an issue with the Overhead Control Panel (OCP) - on the windscreen where the interior lights are located.
The Star system reported that the sensor N70b1 (the in car temperature sensor) was reporting an "implausible reading". I guess this means out of limits (I believe it was 65C).

The effect that this had was to slow the CANBUS communications down to a very low level and this CANBUS issue apparently caused ALL the other issues to occur - and I can tell you there were many.
My expert explained it to me that in effect the comms in the car becomes so congested that nothing could talk on the CANBUS system and the net result is that everything starts to throw up error messages and ultimately start to fault (Comand system turning off and headlamps flashing in the most extreme case.).

One simple thing cured it all - the replacement of the OCP. A second hand one from eBay and all issues resolved. ( I say resolved but I now have a "light sensor" error - so that's eighter a faulty sensor or a bad connection - but its just that, nothing else)

The big lesson I learnt is get to someone who knows how to use the STAR system.
 

DSK

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Amazing for those who can get these faults bottomed out but, the reality is despite best efforts it’s the luck one gets with mechanics.

I’ve known of many insurance scams taking place when electrical faults occur and the owners and mechanics fail to resolve, so rather then keep spending money on it, or sell/scrap at a loss, people resort to insurance scams. Saw one in person taking place where a garage repeatedly side swiped a gold Merc C class with another damaged car of a similar size.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

teaspoonasaurous

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I am pretty sure that the EIS is the culprit in my SL. Considering the SRS and Rollbar warning can be made disappear depending on how much pressure is placed on the key. I will give Autotroics as go as the main dealer wants 900 for the part with 200 returned once i bring back a blue key...

This video here has a guide on removing the module. Wish me luck!
 

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