Electric Windows

[Paul Wong]

Hi, I have a 1998 C240 and it has a very low mileage - 26,500. The electric window problems began a week ago. At first, both the driver and passenger side front windows functioned randomly and then after a few days totally inoperative. According to some suggestions posted in the forum, I disconnected the battery to initiate a power-on reset. However, it worked only for 2 days and the driver side window is dead again today. Is there a more permanent solution?

 

[MOB]

I have similar problem with my 1997 E200, first one of front window and door mirror stops working then a day or so later the other stops, had back with local garage they could find nothing contacted MB they where no help, so basiclly they disconnect battery and reconnect this resets windows but only lasts for a couple of days. Sorry no help but will be interested in any reply's you get.

 

[television]

If the back and front window are not working, you can forget component failure, that has to be a wiring connection problem, its a matter of taking off a door card, and finding the missing voltage or ground and working back into the car, you could check the fuses and the holders making sure that you do have 12 volt both sides of the fuse holder.

Malcolm

 

[luders79]

Hello,

I've had probelms like this at work before where windows and door mirrors stop working and can be reset for a couple of days by disconnecting battery. The cause that it has bee in these probelms have been a fault with one of the rear DCM's ( door control modules ) This is all part of the window motor. What happen's is that it sends faulty signals on the can system causing things to shut down. If you want to try this then if take the triangle trim off at the bottom of the B pillar you will then find the connectors for the electrics in the relavant door. N/S/R or O/S/R door. Disconnect them in turn and see if the front windows start working when it is disconnected. If it does then this could be the cause of your problem. You could also try it with the front DCM's aswell if the rear's doesn't work.

Hope this is of some help

Let us know how you get on

Luders

 

[MOB]

Luders79, Did as you said opened drivers side post panel located 2 plug, 1 black and 1 pink, disconnect both and reconnected window operating again. Waited for problem to recur, and then tried passenger side nothing happened. Disconnected drivers again and windows working again, so I think my problem is on this side. Questions:
1 What are the black and pink connectors for?
2. What is problem with this unit, where is located on door, can it be repaired or do I replace?
3. Can I leave permanently diconnected ( can live without rear window operating)?

Thanks for the help

 

[luders79]

Hello,
IF the windows work with the connectors disconnected then that is more than likey your problem.
1. Can't remember off the top of my head what each of the connector's I think it's the black one you have to disconnect will try and find out. Has black connector Got a brown wire and a brown with red trace in?
2. The component that goes faulty is in the door it is all part of the window motor thats part of the window regulator. As fair as i know is that you can't repair it replacement is required.
3.If you left it disconnected I don't think it would cause any probelms Can't say i've tried it. If you do leave it disconnected and you get any other problems be sure to tell garage that it's disconnected as it will have faults logged in system Mainly CAN faults.

Hope all goes well

Luders

 

[MOB]

Luders79, I removed the panel from door to trace cables, the pink connector is for the speakers ( so I reconnected this) the black connector has 4 cables 2 approx 1.25 sq. these are brown and red / yel and 2 x .75 sq.cables these feed into the window switch, door courtesy light and the motor (1.25sq). I removed the connection on the motor, (this is a 9 pin connector) and I undid 3 Torx screws on "black plastic box" on motor, this revealed a printed circuit board (PCB). Questions:
1. As the motor appeares to be working fine is this PCB that requires replacing?
2. Is this a spare part or do you I have to get complete with motor?

I still have window disconnected and all is well, but it ususally takes a couple of days for problem to recur.
Thanks for the help

 

[luders79]

If there is a probelm with that component then you have to replace the whole thing. I'm not aware of being able to repair or replace items on their own.

Hope all goes well,
Glad i could be of some help.

Luders

 

[MOB]

Problem has not recurred over last 4 days, so I assumed problem is back door drivers side door control unit as already discussed.
Has anyone ever changed this unit?
As I have already said this is attached to motor, when you remove the 9 pin connector and 3 torx screw on black box, it opens to reveal a PCB.
Can this be replaced by any other unit without having to programme etc ( ie one out of Scrap yard)??
If not and I order new unit does this need to be programmed??

Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[Shala]

I have a 1999 C180 Esprite. I also have this problem over the last 3 months. First the front passanger side stopped working for 2 days. When I took it to garage to hav it looked at it started againg. 2 days later the passanger side mirror & window stopped working again. few days later the passanger side started working then driver side stopped working. And it keeps happening randomly between the front 2 windows. I'm getting very annoyed with this. I bought the car in febuary & bought 1 years warranty with it so if anyone can tell me what part needs replacing then maybe I can hav it fixed under warranty. 1 thing I do know is that the problem started about 3 days after I had my sound system (amp, sub) installed. would that hav caused any problems?

I would apreciate any help

Regards

Shala

 

[MOB]

Have you been resetting windows by diconnecting battery ?
If you have do as Luders79 suggested on earlier reply.
Disconnect back windows one at a time, you will fine the connector at bottom of central pillar or along cable tray at front doors.(4 pin connector there maybe a 2 pin connector pig-backing on it this is for sound system leave alone)
I did this when passenger front window was not working as soon as I disconnected back door (drivers side) I tried front window and has now been working for the last week. Luders says that the Door Control Unit for this door is sending a fault on the CAN system resulting in windows shutting down and other faults (my C/L shut down while I was away for a week !!!!!!!)
I have stripped panel from the door and examied the window motor there is a
black plastic box attached in this there is a PCB I think this is where the problem is, unfortunately this is not a spare part, as it comes complete with motor.
I am still trying to find out if I get one from a scrap yard does it have to be programmed etc. I work with a Software Tech and he suggested to have another look at the PCB and if it has DIP switches if it has it should be ok to fit a second hand PCB making sure the same switch arrangement. ( the switches give the DCU an "address" for CAN System seemingly????
I will let you know how I get on.

 

[Shala]

Thanks very much mate. I can live with it temporarily as long as the driver side desn't keep messing up (unless it's really hot weather like its been recently). if the whole motor needs changing then i'll just try to get it changed under warranty

 

[MOB]

I have had another look at the window motor and the PCB does not have DIP switches.
Has anyone ever fitted a new or second hand window motor as I am unsure if this needs to be programmed to suit car???
I forgot to mention my car is a 1997 E200 A/T

 

[luders79]

Hello,
To replace it you have to drill out the rivits that hold regulator in as motor comes complete with regulator. Then just re-fit new one with new rivits. No coding required.

Good luck

luders

 

[Paul Wong]

MOB

If you are now accessible to the PCB, I suggest you give it a trial by repairing the PCB itself. The only electronic component which has a time-delay effect is the capacitor. Look for electrolytic capacitors (size of small cans) which usually dries up after a no. of years. If you can find one (or more) which cannot be charged up, replace them and see what happens.

Paul Wong

 

[Paul Wong]

I have changed to a brand new battery recently and all the troubles with the electric windows seemed to have disappeared. Everything has been working as normal for a week already. So have your batteries recharged and see if there's any improvement.

Paul Wong

 

[Paul Wong]

I recently have my 100A battery renewed. Since then all my windows worked well. It's been 10 days since and everthing is still normal.

 

[MOB]

Paul,
I disconnected back door electrics as advised by Luder79 for 1 week and had no problems, I reconnected and within 2 days problems started again, I have disconnected again and no problems for 2 weeks, so I can only assume I need to change out motor / PCB, I have found out that the PCB is not a spare part and comes complete with motor. I can live w/o back window so I will try and pick one up in scrap yard.
I did have battery checked and it was fine.

 

[Paul Wong]

MOB, all my windows are still working properly with the new battery. So high enough voltage is probably one of the cure. My previous battery read 11 volts and the new one 13 volts. Just for your reference.

 

[Shala]

I have a huge sound system in my car with a power capacitor on it. i've had the problem since the sound system was fitted. or could it be because the battery was didconnected or because the sound system is drawing too much power.

what voltage is it supposed tobe on anyway?