Exploded view of W210 estate leather seats?

[Kallisti]

Anyone know where I could find a dis-assembly diagram? I've got a pair of pre built headrest DVD units that I want to install, hopefully tapping the power from the seats, the cables go down the stems.

I've not had a chance to look at it in the flesh yet, but thought it'd be nice to start with a proper disassembly diagram.

 

[television]

try this
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb1.as...&GA=722.329722.509722.605&CT=F&Cat=45P&SID=91

 

[Kallisti]

lol, perfect - forgot about that site, then again last time I tried to find anything on it I found it a little inaccessible for some reason

 

[Kallisti]

Follow up on this now that I've gotten into the seat (very easily)...

Where would I be best to get power from?

The input requirements for the screens is 12v, 1.5amps with a typical usage of 12 watts.

The seats have electric adjustment, but no heating.

I guess my best bet is to go around underneath to the front where the harnesses are - does anyone know what the various leads are rated at? There seem to be three harnesses with just +- on each, are they any use or are they switched by the controls?

Can't see from detali.ru which is the main input power. At this point I'm guessing I might need to remove the seat to do this?

Advice much appreciated.

--Steve C

 

[Myros]

if you disconnect the plugs from

under the front end of the seats, you should be able to test them for live feeds under various conditions. as far as i recall, nothing on the seat is live without the ignition key being in the lock, but i imagine you would want something live on insertion, rather than at stage 2 of the steering lock. You could use your circuit tester to see what comes on and when, and then take your feed accordingly.
I used a different method, and ran a feed from the rear power outlet to a bank of auxiliary cigar lighter sockets which i mounted between the driver's seat and the tunnel. The mem can now charge her phone and run the dvd for the kids at the same time. The dvd is portable though, and not a fixed screen set up like yours.

 

[bigasotonuk]

Electric seats in my AMG are live with no key in the ignition, as long as a front door is open, the seats are fed from a relay in the boot, the coil of which is activated by the comfort control unit.
I personally would wire the screens through a relay using the stereo's amp trigger wire as the coil feed. Your battery is only under the rear seat cushion if memory serves plenty of room to mount a relay and a couple of fuse holders (for the screens).
Good luck, with the fit, keep us posted on how you get on.

 

[Blobcat]

Electric seats in my AMG are live with no key in the ignition, as long as a front door is open, the seats are fed from a relay in the boot, the coil of which is activated by the comfort control unit.
I personally would wire the screens through a relay using the stereo's amp trigger wire as the coil feed. Your battery is only under the rear seat cushion if memory serves plenty of room to mount a relay and a couple of fuse holders (for the screens).
Good luck, with the fit, keep us posted on how you get on.

I agree and pictures are always nice. Do a decent write up and I will put it in the DIY section for you.

 

[Kallisti]

Well, all done - I called a techie for a bit of advice, got the phase tester and some tools out and went for it.

First of all I unscrewed the two screws at the bottom of the seat backs, this allows access inside the seats - quite a lot of space as it happens. There are also flaps at the bottom of the seat backs that are perfect for threading wires through.

The units I have are completely independent, but can be wired together to allow the same image to be displayed on both. As a result, I moved all of the wiring to the passenger seat and conected it all up inside that seat.

To do this, first of all move the seats fully forward. Remove the black panel from the back of the centre console (it unclips at the top then slides upwards). You can squeeze the wires under the plastic at the left/right side, then feed them back into the other seat up the little flaps.

Make sure you move the seats fully forward as that seems to be the longest cable extent you'll need. I then wrapped the bit of wires that were showing in electrical cable. It doesn't look absolutely perfect, but I can't see any other way of getting wires from seat to seat without a LOT of hassle! You can push the wires quite far under the seats to keep them out of sight.

I connected all the wiring together in the left hand seat back according to the instructions in the manual (yeah right, of course I didn't, but it was quite obvious which went where!). I threaded the live, ground and antenna cables down through the flap at the bottom left.

I crimped the ground cables together and screwed down under a bolt holding the passenger seat to the rails on the underside. The whole chassis should be ground, so just about any metal screw will do for that.

I crimped both live wires together and attched them to a bit of wire which I ran along the left rail of the passenger seat. Leaving enough slack for it to go back and forth, I covered it with electrical tape to hold it down in position.

If you pull up the plastic trim on the passenger doorwell, you'll see a load of wires in plastic casing. The plastic casing unclips, and under the door silencing fabric (which easily pulls up), you'll find a clip holding it in place. If you remove this with a small slotted screwdriver you should have full access to all of the wiring.

Now you need to find a suitable power. The large red ones are permanent live. Not a lot of use as you'll come back to a dead battery some day if you forget to turn off the screens. The one I found was black/red and worked at stage two of the ignition turning. On reflection, possibly not ideal but it works! Anyway, using a phase tester you should be able to find a suitable wire yourself by embedding the red spike in the wire and touching the black spike to the chassis somewhere, or the outer ring on the cigarette lighter. You're looking for something that's dead with the key out, and live with the key in, or turned to stage one or two. Wires to avoid are the blue and yellow ones at the top - the blue one carries the washer fluid to the rear window, not sure where the yellow one goes, but it felt soft and so best to avoid it!

Cut that wire you've chosen, crimp it in a connector and crimp that to the wire you fed under the seat earlier. Put everything back together, make sure that none of the wires are hampered or stretched by moving the seats to their full extents and voila, you should be good to go.

Don't forget to test the screens are fully working before you put all the trim back. Luckily you can hide rather a lot of wiring inside the two seats.

The only thing remaining for me is to find an antenna to link into - that will improve the FM transmission if the screens have them. Does anyone happen to know if the wiring loom down the side includes an antenna?

 

[Kallisti]

On reflection - probably not a good guide to doing it. I'm going to have to re-wire this to go to the battery and relay from a feed that gets power when the key is inserted. Interior lights and radio amp have been suggested, once again into territory that I'm not overly familiar with!