Fitting new Electric window mechanism

T

the lad

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can any one tell me how to go about installing a new drivers side window mechanism on a w124 e220 1994 please.

also is it an easy job or should i take it to a garage ? :Oops:

Many Thanks
 

Bolide

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Your Mercedes
BMW 525 Diesel Touring
W124 window mechanism

It's a pretty straightforward job to swop out the window mechanism but, like most jobs, it's easier after you've done it once! Assuming you don't have electric seats (if you do you have to deal with removing the switch tops) this is what you do:

If the mechanism works, drop the window most of the way down. Pull the black plastic trim off from in front of the door handle & you'll see a 10mm bolt that holds the handle to the door. Remove it. Pop the door trim away from under the tabs on the edge of the plastic piece under the chrome door handle - this is important

Remove the posidriv screw that holds the black plastic C-trim round the door lock. The trim slides off toward the car. Grab the whole door trim & lift it to unhook it from the door. The black plastic trim strip under the window is held on with spring clips so this will hold tight & the trim will bow in the middle. Give the whole thing a whack to free it. When it comes free unplug the courtesy light

Carefully peel back the waterproof membrane at the bottom of the door. Loosen the 3 (or is it 4?) 10 mm bolts that hold the motor. If the motor works, raise & lower the window till you see the 10 mm bolt on the scissor mechanism. It's accessible via a hole in the door inner skin. Remove this bolt. Look very carefully at the sliding aluminium section and how it's fixed. Wind the window down fully. Remove the screws for the two wires for the motor. Remove the bolts holding the motor in place. Slide the plastic clip free of the track. Remove the mechanism and the aluminium section. Refitting is straigntforward as long as you have a good mental picture of what's going on and your knees don't hurt too badly!

If the motor doesn't work it's more of a struggle. It's best to remove the screws for the two wires for the motor, remove the bolts holding the motor in place and wiggle it all up & down till you can get at the bolt on the scissor. This'll drive you mad. (Note: if you're doing a rear door snip the drive cable and you'll be able to lift the glass up & down by hand)

When refitting the mechanism there's one bolt (in a slot, not a hole) that allows adjustment of the angle the glass takes when lifting. Wind the window all the way up, loosen this bolt and push it so that the glass is nearly tight into the frame. Don't overdo it or the window will tend to stall when lifting. Adjust it right or the glass will be on the **** when going up. make sure the window goes up & down easily and winds right to the top

You'll find lots of grease on the mechanism so get cleaned up before refitting the door trim. It's difficult to get all the hooks to engage on the door so fit it once, find the ones that haven't hooked on, remove the trim & start again. If you've forgotten the courtesy light take the trim off again & plug it in...

This is a good opportunity to replace courtesy light bulbs, waxoyl the inner doors and hoover out the boken glass from inside the door. It's always there!


Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 
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T

the lad

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Many thanks Nick
all though i am no competent mechanic i will print off your instructions and get up early next weekend as to give me plenty of time so long as it dont rain :cool:

thank you
 

tom7035

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Also have to carefully prise off the triangular shaped piece of trim by the door mirror. As Nick says, have a good mental picture of how it looks before you remove it - and don't rush. Patience is required especially when trying to relocate ALL of the hooks in the door card!
 
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T

the lad

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thanks for the extra bit tom
 

Wingreen

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Your Mercedes
1994 W124 E200 Petrol Estate - over 200,000 miles, but sadly at journeys end. Also a 2003 CDi 220
I'm stuck. Everything went well until I tried to close the window..but it only goes about 75% of way up...looks to me like its in wrong position horizontally - the vertical side of the window nearest the "back" of the door being well away from the guide channel which runs vertically in the door. Could it be something to do with the "10 mm bolt on the scissor mechanism. It's accessible via a hole in the door inner skin" you refer to? I undid this when removing the regulator...but I'm damned if I know how to get it back i.e. I can't see where on earth it should fit back in the system. Any help very gratefully recieved!
 

Wingreen

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Your Mercedes
1994 W124 E200 Petrol Estate - over 200,000 miles, but sadly at journeys end. Also a 2003 CDi 220
its all about getting the window in the groove

Can I retract my last post?! I had all the 10mm nuts in already. The problem was that, in all the fiddling to get the old regulator out and the new one in, the leading edge of the window had come out of its guide rails. Probably obvious to most, but if you hit the same problem, maybe this post will help - get the window in the guides (the channels that go right up to top of the door.
By the way, manual suggersts using loctite or similar when putting nuts back - good advice as you wouldn't want them loosening with all the vibration - its not that easy taking trim on and off.
Having said that, I then went on to replace the regulator in the other front door.
 

matsmith

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Your Mercedes
300ce 1990 3.0
I have taken out my regulator, welded and filed new teeth to replace the worn away ones. I have refitted in reverse order, put the door card back on etc. when I closed the door I can see the rear corner of the glass is sitting at the same level as the seal, the passenger side is tucked up under the seal. I am going to remove the door card again and try to adjust.

Is it the horizontal six inch track mounted by two 10mm nuts that adjusts the angle or the is it that rectangular washer with one end dipped in plastic/resin, mounted at the centre of the glass to regulator fixing? I am really confused. It's a coupe.

First time in six years of ownership I can open and close the window without pushing the glass with my hand.

Any help appreciated.
 

matsmith

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300ce 1990 3.0
I have discovered the cause of the annoying wind noise, it is the seating of the glass against the virtual b pillar seal. The gap is wider at the top. Does anyone know how this is adjusted, the rear window alignment correlates with the otherside so it am guessing it's the front door glass or the door itself. Thanks
 

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DREAMER NO2

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W124 2.6E M103 1989
help

Take pictures with your camera ,or phone ,at each step so you can fit it back later on by looking at them . Also this is on toutube..
 

Xtractorfan

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S class
On your winder is there two 10mm nuts/bolts bottom of the door... underneath the door, these will allow you to adjust the glass out and in at the top. mark where they are before adjusting, or try and see if you can find the original marks where they were set & tightened.
It also looks to me that the window needs to be adjusted further back, which means dropping the rear securing nut/bolt or uplifting the front securing nut/bolt.
Some of these windows also have fine adjustment screws on the lifting mechanism, but only adjust these a tiny fraction at a time until you see how they affect the glass position.
 

television

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2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
I would say that the fault is in the rear window, there are adjustment bolts to set the front upright.
 

matsmith

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300ce 1990 3.0
Thanks. I have managed to get it to sit well and hoped it would cure the wind noise from the window. I can't see why there is the wind noise. The seal is dry with some very small cracks where it's aged.
 


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