front disc change onW210,, easy?

[BigWhite]

hi all, my first post, so here goes???

am going to change front discs on the car, new pads etc. Is it straight forward or is there any pitfalls???

 

[brandwooddixon]

Pretty straight forward.

You may wish to buy new "slider pins" or whatever they're called. They hold the pads in alignment and get very pitted - may also require a punch to remove them.

New discs come with a greasey paint which I find is best removed with sandpaper before placing on the vehicle.

If the discs have been on a while then you may find that you need some gentle persuasion with a lump hammer to remove it.

Clean the hub and mounting plate with some sandpaper to remove and rust and debris and thus ensure a good fit before refitting.

You'll need to loctite the caliper mounting bolts before replacing.

 

[bigasotonuk]

As above, but MB actually recommend replacement of the caliper bolts. The new bolts already come with the threads impregnated with loctite.
To clean the discs of the packing preservative, I used brake cleaner, but do check on the disc instructions as some new discs specifically tell you not to clean them before fitting, this was the case with my last set of ATE discs I fitted.

 

[BigWhite]

Thank you for your replies....

 

[wireman]

While your calipers are off you may wish to check the condition of the ABS sensors on the front hubs, the teeth on the hubs back side can get a little rusty and cock up the ABS after some years due to the degraded and variable magnetic properties of rust in the gaps between the teeth.

It will require the calipers and hubs being removed to sort this problem if/when it emerges so now may be a good time to do a little preventative maintainance.

Take out the sensor and look through the hole at the hub inboard end to see if any rust or muck has taken residence, only if there is some rust will the hub need removal.

 

[cyps]

Pretty straight forward.

You may wish to buy new "slider pins" or whatever they're called. They hold the pads in alignment and get very pitted - may also require a punch to remove them.

New discs come with a greasey paint which I find is best removed with sandpaper before placing on the vehicle.

If the discs have been on a while then you may find that you need some gentle persuasion with a lump hammer to remove it.

Clean the hub and mounting plate with some sandpaper to remove and rust and debris and thus ensure a good fit before refitting.

You'll need to loctite the caliper mounting bolts before replacing.

i may be thick here but what are the "slider pins "
i changed mine just took out the two calliper bolts slid the pistons back removed the one screw holding the disc and then basicaly a reversal
have i missed something out

 

[big-ernie]

Hi, Did it yesterday on my 96 E200 Estate - there are two different types of front brake, dependant on year. If yours are like mine, I can explainexactly how to do it :

1) Once wheel is off and it is jacked up + supported properly, take the spring clip off the caliper with a screw driver and then turn the wheel on full lock so the front of the wheel you are going start with is pointing outwards from the front. You will see 2 x black rubber tubes (about 2cm long) with a cap on the top - remove the cap, inside each cap there is a 7mm hex bolt (most allen keys won't have a 7mm key, but you can get a 7mm caliper key from motor factors - I bought one for £4.99 and it was a good investment) undo both top and bottom hex bolts and remove them completely. Once removed, turn the wheel back to straight (brake pipe wont stretch with the wheel turned) you can then remove the caliper from the disc (you need s something to support it once removed, so get something to ballance it on while you get your new ones ready (I popped the ABS wire out of its retaining clip by the suspension arm as it game me more manovering room). The pad on the piston is held in by the clip, so just reomve that with a screwdriver if it wont come. You then need to take the top off the brake resovior and put a rag over the top, just in case the fliud spills over the top or use a pipet to drain a drop out. You then need to push the piston back into the caliper (I used a G clamp and it worked well), once this is done, you can clip the new clipped pad back into the piston and place the other pad on the housing and refit the caliper onto the disk. I then turned the wheel out again to get better access while putting the hex bolts back in, once both in and tight, replace the caps. Turn the wheel straight, replace the spring clip and put the ABS wire back in the holder. Repace the resoviour cap and push the pedal a couple of times.

2) On the rear, there are 2 x pins that need to be pushed out (I used a pin punch and a flattened off nail). Once out, remove the spring clip and then use a strong screwdriver to put into the pin holes, to remove the old pads. Take the top off the resoviour again and place a rag over the top again, then push back the pistons. You can then insert the pads, put a new sping on and put the pins back in.

I'm no expert and this might be more info than you wanted, but it would have helped me when I was doing it. If any experts feel I did anything worng or have any further suggestions, then please feel free to correct any info I may have got wrong - also note that this is what I did, so if you follow this info and anything goes wrong, I take no responsibility :0) .....