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GUIDE: Changing your Oil (W208)

Discussion in 'Engine, Drivetrain, Fuel and Exhaust' started by JSeaman, Mar 22, 2012.

  1. JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    An oil change is best performed when the oil is warm (if it is hot you tend to get burned and if it is cold it drains slower)

    Step 1 - Pop the bonnet by pulling the lever under the steering wheel (picture 1) then pulling the black plastic tab out of the front grill (picture 2) whilst lifting the bonnet

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    Step 2 - Jack the car up, I recommend a trolley jack on the mounting point shown (picture 2)

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    Step 3 - Once the car is up nice and high, put an axle stand under to support the car

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  2. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 4 - At the front of the car you will find some 10mm bolts holding a plastic undertray in place, remove these

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    Step 5 - Lower the undertray down and slide it clear of the car

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  3. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 6 - You now have access to the sump which is a metal tub where the oil collects when the engine isn't running. There is a bolt in the side of it which you remove (called the sump plug) to let the oil drain

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    Step 7 - Either get an oil drain pan or cut an old oil tub with a Stanley knife as shown to collect the oil as it drains

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    Step 8 - Crack off the sump nut with a socket (17mm if I remember rightly) and then you will be able to turn the bolt with your fingers. Have the tray lined up ready to catch the oil and apply a little force pushing the bolt in to the hole so that when you reach the end of the threads the oil doesn't come out until you release the pressure on the bolt (saves spilling it everywhere)

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  4. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 9 - With the bolt removed you can let gravity do the rest, wait until the flow is just a drip

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    Step 10 - Expect a lot of oil to come out! Probably more than your drain pan, that's why I made a second container in the form of an old oil container, I switched them half way through

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    Step 11 - If you remove the oil filler cap then it will drain the oil a little quicker and you need to fill it from here anyway

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  5. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 12 - Remove the oil filter cover which is just in front of the oil filler cap as shown in the first picture. My tool of choice for these is shown in the subsequent pictures, it is a strap wrench and can be picked up from an auto factors or ebay for < £5 and they work wonders on stubborn oil filters and housing (and other things too, very useful)

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  6. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 13 - If you find you are struggling for space then you can remove the plastic engine cover as shown

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    Step 14 - Unscrew the filter housing completely and pull it clear of the engine as shown

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  7. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 15 - There are some small O rings to replace, the first one is at the very end of the plastic shaft. Simply slide a small flatblade screwdriver under and flick the o ring off (you can use your fingers if preferred)

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    Step 16 - The second, larger, O ring is further up the shaft, repeat the removal process

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    Step 17 - The final large O ring is at the top of the shaft near the filter, remove this too

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  8. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 18 - Slide the filter right down the shaft, it will give a bit of resistance

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    Step 19 - Now the last (and largest) O ring can be removed from the filter housing itself

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    Step 20 - Clean up the housing and shaft (particularly if it is as filthy as mine was!) and get a new filter + o rings to hand

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  9. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 21 - Fit the largest O ring on the housing, the filter and upper O ring

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  10. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 22 - Then fit the two lower O rings to the shaft

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    Step 23 - Now we're ready to refit, simply push back into the orifice you removed it from in the engine, give it a little twist as you go and lubricate the o rings with engine oil if you want to be really kind to them. Tighten by hand initially

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  11. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 24 - Set your torque wrench to 25nM and tighten the housing (if you don't have a torque wrench then you'll have to do it by feel, nip it up then tighten about a quarter turn)

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    Step 25 - By now the dripping should have stopped and you'll have about 6-8 litres of oil to remove and put somewhere safe (dispose of it at your local refuse site)

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    Step 26 - Refit the sump plug and tighten it up. Clean off any oil around the plug so you can check for leaks when it starts up

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  12. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 27 - Grab yourself a couple of 5L containers of oil (5W40 for mine) and fill through the oil filler plug we removed in step 11

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    Step 28 - After you have put most of the oil in, use the dipstick to top up, I always run at just under the full mark

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  13. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Step 29 - Lower the car down to the ground

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    Step 30 - Fire up the engine and check the oil filter housing and sump plug for any sign of leaks (if there are then tighten relevant part)

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    Step 31 - Refit the upper engine cover (it just clips on)

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    Step 32 - Refit the undertray and you have finished
     
  14. Silver_Star

    Silver_Star Senior Member

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    Couple of observations (please don't take these as criticisms). It is good of you to take the time to make the guide as some people on here ask how to do this basic maintenance task.

    It is good practice to renew the copper washer on the sump plug or anneal it with a blow torch. Failing that install it the other way round, but they are only pence from MB or factors.

    You should ideally lower the car whilst the oil is draining as you will have dirty oil left in the sump that could easily drain if the car was level. I also jack up the car a little on the N/S when the draining has nearly stopped to get a little more out.

    The O rings should be lubed up with a little fresh oil prior to being installed on the filter housing.

    Also isn't the sump plug 13mm (as most mercs are) and not 17mm as stated? The under tray bolts are you sure they are 10mm and not 8mm?
     
  15. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Thanks for the feedback, in response:

    1. Yes you should renew the copper washer of heat treat it but I didn't have one on my car!
    2. Unless you jack the car really high it won't make a difference but you can lower the car if you prefer
    3. Mentioned in step 23
    4. Pretty sure it was 17mm but it was a long time ago I did this so not absolutely certain
     
  16. Mercedes-2010

    Mercedes-2010 Senior Member

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    Impressive. Nice pics and pretty idiot proof too... Thanks
     
  17. OP
    JSeaman

    JSeaman Senior Member

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    Thanks for the feedback, glad you like it
     
  18. harp1963

    harp1963 Senior Member

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    Excellent. But can any one advise if oil filter is located on top of engine or below on a W208 CLK yr 2000, engine 2.0K.
    Thank You very much for your responses.
     
  19. harp1963

    harp1963 Senior Member

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  20. bigasotonuk

    bigasotonuk Senior Member

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    Hi,
    Your oil filter should be look and be in a similar position to the one in the pics.
     

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