GUIDE: Changing your Oil (W208)

JSeaman

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An oil change is best performed when the oil is warm (if it is hot you tend to get burned and if it is cold it drains slower)

Step 1 - Pop the bonnet by pulling the lever under the steering wheel (picture 1) then pulling the black plastic tab out of the front grill (picture 2) whilst lifting the bonnet

MCOStep1a.jpg

MCOStep1b.jpg


Step 2 - Jack the car up, I recommend a trolley jack on the mounting point shown (picture 2)

MCOStep2a.jpg

MCOStep2b.jpg


Step 3 - Once the car is up nice and high, put an axle stand under to support the car

MCOStep3a.jpg

MCOStep3b.jpg
 
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JSeaman

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Step 4 - At the front of the car you will find some 10mm bolts holding a plastic undertray in place, remove these

MCOStep4a.jpg

MCOStep4b.jpg

MCOStep4c.jpg


Step 5 - Lower the undertray down and slide it clear of the car

MCOStep5a.jpg

MCOStep5b.jpg
 
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JSeaman

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Step 6 - You now have access to the sump which is a metal tub where the oil collects when the engine isn't running. There is a bolt in the side of it which you remove (called the sump plug) to let the oil drain

MCOStep6.jpg


Step 7 - Either get an oil drain pan or cut an old oil tub with a Stanley knife as shown to collect the oil as it drains

MCOStep7a.jpg

MCOStep7b.jpg


Step 8 - Crack off the sump nut with a socket (17mm if I remember rightly) and then you will be able to turn the bolt with your fingers. Have the tray lined up ready to catch the oil and apply a little force pushing the bolt in to the hole so that when you reach the end of the threads the oil doesn't come out until you release the pressure on the bolt (saves spilling it everywhere)

MCOStep8.jpg
 
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JSeaman

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Step 9 - With the bolt removed you can let gravity do the rest, wait until the flow is just a drip

MCOStep9.jpg


Step 10 - Expect a lot of oil to come out! Probably more than your drain pan, that's why I made a second container in the form of an old oil container, I switched them half way through

MCOStep10a.jpg

MCOStep10b.jpg


Step 11 - If you remove the oil filler cap then it will drain the oil a little quicker and you need to fill it from here anyway

MCOStep11.jpg
 
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Step 12 - Remove the oil filter cover which is just in front of the oil filler cap as shown in the first picture. My tool of choice for these is shown in the subsequent pictures, it is a strap wrench and can be picked up from an auto factors or ebay for < £5 and they work wonders on stubborn oil filters and housing (and other things too, very useful)

MCOStep12a.jpg

MCOStep12b.jpg

MCOStep12c.jpg

MCOStep12d.jpg
 
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Step 13 - If you find you are struggling for space then you can remove the plastic engine cover as shown

MCOStep13a.jpg

MCOStep13b.jpg

MCOStep13c.jpg


Step 14 - Unscrew the filter housing completely and pull it clear of the engine as shown

MCOStep14a.jpg

MCOStep14b.jpg
 
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Step 15 - There are some small O rings to replace, the first one is at the very end of the plastic shaft. Simply slide a small flatblade screwdriver under and flick the o ring off (you can use your fingers if preferred)

MCOStep15a.jpg

MCOStep15b.jpg


Step 16 - The second, larger, O ring is further up the shaft, repeat the removal process

MCOStep16.jpg


Step 17 - The final large O ring is at the top of the shaft near the filter, remove this too

MCOStep17.jpg
 
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Step 18 - Slide the filter right down the shaft, it will give a bit of resistance

MCOStep18a.jpg

MCOStep18b.jpg


Step 19 - Now the last (and largest) O ring can be removed from the filter housing itself

MCOStep19.jpg


Step 20 - Clean up the housing and shaft (particularly if it is as filthy as mine was!) and get a new filter + o rings to hand

MCOStep20.jpg
 
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Step 21 - Fit the largest O ring on the housing, the filter and upper O ring

MCOStep21a.jpg

MCOStep21b.jpg

MCOStep21c.jpg

MCOStep21d.jpg
 
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JSeaman

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Step 22 - Then fit the two lower O rings to the shaft

MCOStep22a.jpg

MCOStep22b.jpg

MCOStep22c.jpg


Step 23 - Now we're ready to refit, simply push back into the orifice you removed it from in the engine, give it a little twist as you go and lubricate the o rings with engine oil if you want to be really kind to them. Tighten by hand initially

MCOStep23a.jpg

MCOStep23b.jpg

MCOStep23c.jpg
 
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Step 24 - Set your torque wrench to 25nM and tighten the housing (if you don't have a torque wrench then you'll have to do it by feel, nip it up then tighten about a quarter turn)

MCOStep24.jpg


Step 25 - By now the dripping should have stopped and you'll have about 6-8 litres of oil to remove and put somewhere safe (dispose of it at your local refuse site)

MCOStep25.jpg


Step 26 - Refit the sump plug and tighten it up. Clean off any oil around the plug so you can check for leaks when it starts up

MCOStep26a.jpg

MCOStep26b.jpg
 
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JSeaman

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Step 27 - Grab yourself a couple of 5L containers of oil (5W40 for mine) and fill through the oil filler plug we removed in step 11

MCOStep27.jpg


Step 28 - After you have put most of the oil in, use the dipstick to top up, I always run at just under the full mark

MCOStep28a.jpg

MCOStep28b.jpg

MCOStep28c.jpg
 
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Step 29 - Lower the car down to the ground

MCOStep29.jpg


Step 30 - Fire up the engine and check the oil filter housing and sump plug for any sign of leaks (if there are then tighten relevant part)

MCOStep30.jpg


Step 31 - Refit the upper engine cover (it just clips on)

MCOStep31.jpg


Step 32 - Refit the undertray and you have finished
 

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Couple of observations (please don't take these as criticisms). It is good of you to take the time to make the guide as some people on here ask how to do this basic maintenance task.

It is good practice to renew the copper washer on the sump plug or anneal it with a blow torch. Failing that install it the other way round, but they are only pence from MB or factors.

You should ideally lower the car whilst the oil is draining as you will have dirty oil left in the sump that could easily drain if the car was level. I also jack up the car a little on the N/S when the draining has nearly stopped to get a little more out.

The O rings should be lubed up with a little fresh oil prior to being installed on the filter housing.

Also isn't the sump plug 13mm (as most mercs are) and not 17mm as stated? The under tray bolts are you sure they are 10mm and not 8mm?
 
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JSeaman

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Thanks for the feedback, in response:

1. Yes you should renew the copper washer of heat treat it but I didn't have one on my car!
2. Unless you jack the car really high it won't make a difference but you can lower the car if you prefer
3. Mentioned in step 23
4. Pretty sure it was 17mm but it was a long time ago I did this so not absolutely certain
 
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JSeaman

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Thanks for the feedback, glad you like it
 

harp1963

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Excellent. But can any one advise if oil filter is located on top of engine or below on a W208 CLK yr 2000, engine 2.0K.
Thank You very much for your responses.
 

bigasotonuk

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Hi,
Your oil filter should be look and be in a similar position to the one in the pics.
 

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