heater control bulbs, w124
- Thread starter fatboy
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television
Always remembered RIP
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- 2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...+++717.412&CT=F&cat=15S&SID=83&SGR=150&SGN=02
I think that the knob just pulls off and the bulb is behind it
I think that the knob just pulls off and the bulb is behind it
E
evo-number-one
Guest
Without this turning into a "Carry On" sketch full of inuendos.... I had right fun and games pulling my knobs off too!
Although they do just pull off, one of mine was like yours, really tough to shift. In the end I used a very long think screw driver to prize it off while I pulled and wiggled my knob (No Matron!) . Go slowly and be carful not to mark the outer ring it sits in.
Attached (by 4 short plastic stems) on the back of the knob itself is a thinner plastic grip that slots over the shaft where the bulb sits. It is this bit that gets stuck and makes removal difficult. You may find that in prizing the knob off this way, this grip comes off and stays on the heater - if it does, remove it from the shaft and clip it back to the knob with a blob of superglue on the stems.
If you find that the bulbs you have are the frosted type, make sure you get the same wattage (I think they are 0.4w) and do not accept the Dealers blurb that you can only now get 0.5w clear bulbs which they claimed were a direct replacement.
The clear 0.5watters heat the knob to Chernobyl strength giving you a right scalding shock when you unsuspectingly go to adjust them the first night after replacing.
Go to a motor factors and source the glazed 0.4w, or if you cannot source anything other than the 0.5watters, fit those into the headlight switch surround (where they are not fully enclosed and do not overheat anything)
and the foglight pull (where they would be used less often) and put the glazed ones from there into the heater knobs.
Sounds a bit long winded, but boy did that extra 0.1w burn!!!
Although they do just pull off, one of mine was like yours, really tough to shift. In the end I used a very long think screw driver to prize it off while I pulled and wiggled my knob (No Matron!) . Go slowly and be carful not to mark the outer ring it sits in.
Attached (by 4 short plastic stems) on the back of the knob itself is a thinner plastic grip that slots over the shaft where the bulb sits. It is this bit that gets stuck and makes removal difficult. You may find that in prizing the knob off this way, this grip comes off and stays on the heater - if it does, remove it from the shaft and clip it back to the knob with a blob of superglue on the stems.
If you find that the bulbs you have are the frosted type, make sure you get the same wattage (I think they are 0.4w) and do not accept the Dealers blurb that you can only now get 0.5w clear bulbs which they claimed were a direct replacement.
The clear 0.5watters heat the knob to Chernobyl strength giving you a right scalding shock when you unsuspectingly go to adjust them the first night after replacing.
Go to a motor factors and source the glazed 0.4w, or if you cannot source anything other than the 0.5watters, fit those into the headlight switch surround (where they are not fully enclosed and do not overheat anything)
and the foglight pull (where they would be used less often) and put the glazed ones from there into the heater knobs.
Sounds a bit long winded, but boy did that extra 0.1w burn
!!!
Last edited by a moderator:
television
Always remembered RIP
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2005
- Messages
- 164,073
- Reaction score
- 377
- Age
- 89
- Location
- Daventry
- Your Mercedes
- 2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
As above. they are tight, we used to use some fishing line behind the knob and pull that
