Help please 2012 e350 CDI sport changing brake pads

[Sr108]

Tried to change the pads today on the front , saw a video on YouTube where they just pushed out the 2 pins and took off the clip and then just changed the pads. Tried to do same , could not bang the pins out , tried and tried and tried , the end of the pins where getting mangled by me trying to bang them out .. I sprayed some lubricant on them and maybe will try again tomorrow but does anybody have any tips ? How can I get these pins out ?

 

[Funkyboy]

Use a punch to push them through

 

[Larkone]

Make that a parallel punch, not tapered

 

[alexanderfoti]

Sometimes they seize and have to be cut and drilled.

 

[Sr108]

Use a punch to push them through

Not familiar with that what is it ?

 

[Wighty]

Not familiar with that what is it ?

US PRO Tools 16pc Punch and Chisel set, Metal Drift, Chisels, Punches NEW 2071 | eBay

US PRO Tools 16pc Punch & Chisel Set, 2071. 3 Cold Chisels 5 Pin Punches 5 Taper Punches 2 Center Punches US PRO-INDUSTRIAL. 3 x 125mm (1/8" x 5"). 2 x 133mm (3/32" x 5 1/4").

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Sr108]

Ah ok yes thanks.. yesterday I was using a small screwdriver bit I think it was the star type which has a round flat end in the screwdriver handle thing and was hitting with hammer , not sure one of these punch things would be any different ??

US PRO Tools 16pc Punch and Chisel set, Metal Drift, Chisels, Punches NEW 2071 | eBay

US PRO Tools 16pc Punch & Chisel Set, 2071. 3 Cold Chisels 5 Pin Punches 5 Taper Punches 2 Center Punches US PRO-INDUSTRIAL. 3 x 125mm (1/8" x 5"). 2 x 133mm (3/32" x 5 1/4").

www.ebay.co.uk

US PRO Tools 16pc Punch and Chisel set, Metal Drift, Chisels, Punches NEW 2071 | eBay

US PRO Tools 16pc Punch & Chisel Set, 2071. 3 Cold Chisels 5 Pin Punches 5 Taper Punches 2 Center Punches US PRO-INDUSTRIAL. 3 x 125mm (1/8" x 5"). 2 x 133mm (3/32" x 5 1/4").

www.ebay.co.uk

Ah ok yes thanks.. yesterday I was using a small screwdriver bit I think it was the star type which has a round flat end in the screwdriver handle thing and was hitting with hammer , not sure one of these punch things would be any different ??

 

[Wighty]

Ah ok yes thanks.. yesterday I was using a small screwdriver bit I think it was the star type which has a round flat end in the screwdriver handle thing and was hitting with hammer , not sure one of these punch things would be any different ??

US PRO Tools 16pc Punch and Chisel set, Metal Drift, Chisels, Punches NEW 2071 | eBay

US PRO Tools 16pc Punch & Chisel Set, 2071. 3 Cold Chisels 5 Pin Punches 5 Taper Punches 2 Center Punches US PRO-INDUSTRIAL. 3 x 125mm (1/8" x 5"). 2 x 133mm (3/32" x 5 1/4").

www.ebay.co.uk

Ah ok yes thanks.. yesterday I was using a small screwdriver bit I think it was the star type which has a round flat end in the screwdriver handle thing and was hitting with hammer , not sure one of these punch things would be any different ??

They might not make much difference but they don’t chew up the end of the pin . As Alex says above maybe they might need drilling out anyway

 

[Sr108]

They might not make much difference but they don’t chew up the end of the pin . As Alex says above maybe they might need drilling out anyway

Alright thanks alot

 

[renrutp76]

Alright thanks alot

I managed to bend 4 punches doing mine, all similar diameter to the pins. Ended up drilling them out. Once the front is drilled out try to continue to punch out the rest of the pin through the back of the caliper.

Sent from my SM-F721B using Tapatalk

 

[Uncle Benz]

It’s easiest if you use a dremel or similar cutting tool to cut through the pins just outboard of both pads. The pads can then be removed and the remaining bits punch out easily. Obviously you’ll need a new pin kit. Apply some copperslip to the spring olives and they’ll be easy to remove next time.

 

[Sr108]

I managed to bend 4 punches doing mine, all similar diameter to the pins. Ended up drilling them out. Once the front is drilled out try to continue to punch out the rest of the pin through the back of the caliper.

Sent from my SM-F721B using Tapatalk

Is there another way to do it like taking the whole caliper off and accessing the pads from the other side ?

 

[Sr108]

It’s easiest if you use a dremel or similar cutting tool to cut through the pins just outboard of both pads. The pads can then be removed and the remaining bits punch out easily. Obviously you’ll need a new pin kit. Apply some copperslip to the spring olives and they’ll be easy to remove next time.

It’s easiest if you use a dremel or similar cutting tool to cut through the pins just outboard of both pads. The pads can then be removed and the remaining bits punch out easily. Obviously you’ll need a new pin kit. Apply some copperslip to the spring olives and they’ll be easy to remove next time.

Is there another way to do it like taking the whole caliper off and accessing the pads from the other side ?

 

[brandwooddixon]

The pins have a head on the back side of the caliper that will prevent you from punching them through from the back side to the outside face of the caliper.
The use of a punch that has parallel sides, fits the calper hole exactly and a flat or concave face is advised.
The main sticking point seems to be the back side "head" which has a sprung collet to hold it in place. Sometimes a hitting the head end (as if to insert the pin) can help shock it free.
As you're replacing the pads anyway then use of penetrating oil is not an issue, although will take time to work and must be cleaned off the caliper and the disc afterwards.
You can't apply heat due to the alloy caliper, but you can use plumbers freeze spray on the pin to shrink it. Apply it to the pin shaft where it passes through the pads.
Beyond that I've found that cutting the pins in half and using some mole grips can free them.
When replacing them I wouldn't recommend the use of copper based grease as it will only create more galvanic reaction to seize them in place, but instead a light dab of high temperature grease specifically for brake systems can help keep them removable.

 

[Sr108]

The pins have a head on the back side of the caliper that will prevent you from punching them through from the back side to the outside face of the caliper.
The use of a punch that has parallel sides, fits the calper hole exactly and a flat or concave face is advised.
The main sticking point seems to be the back side "head" which has a sprung collet to hold it in place. Sometimes a hitting the head end (as if to insert the pin) can help shock it free.
As you're replacing the pads anyway then use of penetrating oil is not an issue, although will take time to work and must be cleaned off the caliper and the disc afterwards.
You can't apply heat due to the alloy caliper, but you can use plumbers freeze spray on the pin to shrink it. Apply it to the pin shaft where it passes through the pads.
Beyond that I've found that cutting the pins in half and using some mole grips can free them.
When replacing them I wouldn't recommend the use of copper based grease as it will only create more galvanic reaction to seize them in place, but instead a light dab of high temperature grease specifically for brake systems can help keep them removable.

Is there another way to do it like taking the whole caliper off and accessing the pads from the other side ?

 

[Uncle Benz]

The pins have a head on the back side of the caliper that will prevent you from punching them through from the back side to the outside face of the caliper.
The use of a punch that has parallel sides, fits the calper hole exactly and a flat or concave face is advised.
The main sticking point seems to be the back side "head" which has a sprung collet to hold it in place. Sometimes a hitting the head end (as if to insert the pin) can help shock it free.
As you're replacing the pads anyway then use of penetrating oil is not an issue, although will take time to work and must be cleaned off the caliper and the disc afterwards.
You can't apply heat due to the alloy caliper, but you can use plumbers freeze spray on the pin to shrink it. Apply it to the pin shaft where it passes through the pads.
Beyond that I've found that cutting the pins in half and using some mole grips can free them.
When replacing them I wouldn't recommend the use of copper based grease as it will only create more galvanic reaction to seize them in place, but instead a light dab of high temperature grease specifically for brake systems can help keep them removable.

This is a myth. If it were pure copper, yes, a galvanic reaction can occur. Copaslip has some copper in it, but also grease, which insulates from galvanic corrosion. My only recommendation for avoiding copaslip is as-per their own datasheet, where electrical interference may result from its use.

 

[brandwooddixon]

Is there another way to do it like taking the whole caliper off and accessing the pads from the other side ?

Unlikely. The retainer pin passes through the pad backing plate, after all it's purpose is to prevent a pad from moving towards the centre of the disc as well as away from it.
The head of the retainer pin usually fits nearly flush to the caliper and so there is nothing to grip.
I guess in an extreme case you could remove the whole caliper with pads after disconnecting the brake line so that you can work on it on the bench. You'll need to push the pads back in order to pass any lip on the disc.
In my experience cutting the pin in half and using a mole wrench to wrestle the pin out usually works.

 

[brandwooddixon]

This is a myth. If it were pure copper, yes, a galvanic reaction can occur. Copaslip has some copper in it, but also grease, which insulates from galvanic corrosion. My only recommendation for avoiding copaslip is as-per their own datasheet, where electrical interference may result from its use.

If you say so, but I've yet to find a brake manufacturer who doesn't warn against the use of copper based grease often citing the corrosion risk with aluminium alloy brake calipers as one of its down sides.

 

[Sr108]

It’s easiest if you use a dremel or similar cutting tool to cut through the pins just outboard of both pads. The pads can then be removed and the remaining bits punch out easily. Obviously you’ll need a new pin kit. Apply some copperslip to the spring olives and they’ll be easy to remove next time.

Any idea where to get the pins ? Can't find anything on eBay

 

[Uncle Benz]

Any motor factor that sells pads can also supply a fitting kit with the pins