How easy to change brake pads??

[izzi613]

Hi guys

My 'brake wear visit workshop' warning will not go away and it is driving me nuts.

Question, If I bought pads and the new sensors for my vehicle, how easy would it be to change the front pads? And where would I find instructions?

I am very handy around the house but have never messed with my cars (due to lack of knowledge).

I would be grateful for a quick response so that I could nip out for the pads before the new year break.

Many thanks

 

[izzi613]

Bought the pads £45 + vat also needed 2 sensors £4 ea.

I have found a few posts saying how easy it is to do but does anyone know a good link for step by step instructions.

 

[Blobcat]

We don't have a "How To section" as yet, although one is planned. There have been a few threads on the subject although I cannot remember any with pictures.

 

[mioba]

this is covered in detail on the other forum, i have been researching this for a while, just do a google and you will find alot of web pages about replacing pads.

seeme very straight forward, if you can open a plug and change a fuse, you can do this, just a bit longer

 

[gissy]

while you can mess about with most things on a merc and not do to much damage. brakes are not something to have a bash at.on my e250 you need a set of metric spanners a 10 or 12 mm allen key a good set of axle stands and of course a hammer to hit things with when nothing goes right.if you have to ask how hard this job is it's to hard for you.sorry to be such a downer.

 

[Dan996]

Dead easy job to do did mine today for first time although i have different model merc to you. All i needed was a 15mm spanner and socket undo two bolts that hold caliper and it comes off giving you acsess to pads. Take pads out put new ones in with copper grease on the back put cali back on job done. yours might be different though.

 

[izzi613]

while you can mess about with most things on a merc and not do to much damage. brakes are not something to have a bash at.on my e250 you need a set of metric spanners a 10 or 12 mm allen key a good set of axle stands and of course a hammer to hit things with when nothing goes right.if you have to ask how hard this job is it's to hard for you.sorry to be such a downer.

Thanks Dan

Gissy, appreciate your response but I pride myself on being able to do pretty much anything with my hands and brain (DIY wise). There is always a first time and the only thing that concerns me it the bleed nipple and fluid cos I do not understand where it is located and what to do with it...

Cheers

 

[Dan996]

there is no need to bleed the brakes. unless you are taking brake hose off cali aswell but there is no need to do that.

 

[izzi613]

Thanks Dan

Enjoy your new motor (I think we bought at the same time roughly) I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Parrot of Doom]

The standard way to change brake pads -

Jack car
Remove wheel
Unscrew brake fluid bottle cap and cover with rag
Remove clips/pins holding pads
Pull old pads out
Clean calipers
Compress pistons with big pair of pliers (watch out for brake fluid in engine bay)
Put new pads in (copperslip on the back although some fancy brakes don't like the conductive element of this) (also, the paint finish on the pads can make it difficult to put them in the caliper - if so, scrub the paint off)
Replace clips/pins, clean if necessary with wire brush or similar
Plug new sensors into new pads
Put wheel back on
Drop car

Do other side

Start engine, pump brake pedal

Drive carefully for 10 miles.

 

[Blobcat]

Just a word of caution WRT the ABS pump, pls have a read of posts 31, 33 & 34 in the attached; http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=20767&page=2

 

[izzi613]

Thanks a bunch Parrot

Do I need to remove the caliper from the disc and if so do you know where i'd find the bolt?

Also what is the significance of removing the cap from the brake fluid? Do I need to compress the calipers of open them fully to get the larger pads in? (if compress then why?)

Many thanks Parrot

I live in M7 are you far away in case I get stuck? Just kidding.

 

[Blobcat]

You need to remove the cap to allow the fluid back into the reservoir. However as per my post above you would be much better locking off the flexible hose and opening the bleed nipple when pushing the pistons back in so you can fit the new pads. This method ensures nothing gets pushed back into the ABS pump.

 

[izzi613]

Thanks Blobcat, any idea where I'd find the bleed screw and is this (screw to be open) just while opening/closing the calipers (not sure which). Furthermore, is the amount of fluid bled enough to warrant a brake fluid top up?

Thanks again, appreciate all your help.

 

[izzi613]

Thanks Blobcat, just answered.

One last one though where would I find the bleed nipple?

Oh and a suggestion what to lock the hose with?

Thanks again.

 

[Blobcat]

On the caliper. As for the fluid check the reservoir once you have finished and after you have pumped up the brakes to move the pads back against the discs.

 

[Blobcat]

No. 40 on the attached http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...605716.628&CT=F&cat=69P&SID=42&SGR=030&SGN=01

 

[izzi613]

Much appreciated Blobcat.

 

[turnipsock]

Oh and a suggestion what to lock the hose with?

You can get a special tool from Hellfrauds.

There is also a good tool for pushing the pads back, you might not get that tool so easily.

 

[izzi613]

You can get a special tool from Hellfrauds.

There is also a good tool for pushing the pads back, you might not get that tool so easily.

Can't I just use a mole wrench locked tight?

The second tool you mention is that for winding rear caliper of summit? Only doing the front ones at the mo.