Submariner1
Senior Member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2016
- Messages
- 4,728
- Reaction score
- 802
- Location
- Windsor Berkshire
- Your Mercedes
- CL500 2009 5.5
WIS gives a Torque setting for the lower 6mm nut & bolt arrowed in blue, of 6 Nm.
Thats kinda low for a 6mm bolt and Nut (normally circa 10 Nm) but reasonable, as its squeezing the Plastic Arm attached to the Sensor Block.
It however does NOT give the Torque setting for the top mount Nut ( arrowed in Red ) . This thin bracket seems to have a welded? Or press-crush fitted threaded 6mm stud . This Stud goes right through the suspension arm and then has a Nut on top. This is the Torque setting I need.
My concern is if turned too much, could it shear off this threaded stud from the bracket, or worse case comes off later, and then the ball joint Connector rod with the flimsy bracket attached would hammer against the bottom of the Suspension Arm or twist the ball joint connector Rod into the plastic level sensor block, which probably costs £400 Or more.
or if I set too low a torque, could it come loose over time.
Q. Should I tighten to the normal 6mm bolt torque of 10 Nm or go with the same Torque of 6 Nm as on the lower connection plus say add some blue Loctite For added safety.
Note the lower connecting bolt and nut are at 90 degrees to any movement, whereas the top joint is pulled and pushed in the direction that could induce it to undo.?
Any guesses on this appreciated.
Apologies for the inane aspect of the post. But years of smoking cigars, have made my finger sensitivity to over-tightening useless, find it really hard to feel the difference between 8 Nm and 15Nm , hence I have to rely on torque wrench settings.
These ball joint connector rods only last 7 years and have gone from £12.60 to £26.00 each…. Thin tube of aluminium with a black plastic cup on each end and a press fitted 6mm stud with a ball on it. Inflation eh
Ignore them at your peril, if they seize they will break the Sensors plastic (non repairable) arm for sure.
Note 2 Main Dealers never grease them. Luckily MBS caught them before 3 nearly sheared the level sensor arms, and the 4th was pretty tight. Defo worth splurging some grease over the opening. I forgot and 11,000 miles later and 7 years and they all need replacing. Maybe my low 1500 per annum mileage allows rust to build inside the cups.
Thats kinda low for a 6mm bolt and Nut (normally circa 10 Nm) but reasonable, as its squeezing the Plastic Arm attached to the Sensor Block.
It however does NOT give the Torque setting for the top mount Nut ( arrowed in Red ) . This thin bracket seems to have a welded? Or press-crush fitted threaded 6mm stud . This Stud goes right through the suspension arm and then has a Nut on top. This is the Torque setting I need.
My concern is if turned too much, could it shear off this threaded stud from the bracket, or worse case comes off later, and then the ball joint Connector rod with the flimsy bracket attached would hammer against the bottom of the Suspension Arm or twist the ball joint connector Rod into the plastic level sensor block, which probably costs £400 Or more.
or if I set too low a torque, could it come loose over time.
Q. Should I tighten to the normal 6mm bolt torque of 10 Nm or go with the same Torque of 6 Nm as on the lower connection plus say add some blue Loctite For added safety.
Note the lower connecting bolt and nut are at 90 degrees to any movement, whereas the top joint is pulled and pushed in the direction that could induce it to undo.?
Any guesses on this appreciated.
Apologies for the inane aspect of the post. But years of smoking cigars, have made my finger sensitivity to over-tightening useless, find it really hard to feel the difference between 8 Nm and 15Nm , hence I have to rely on torque wrench settings.
These ball joint connector rods only last 7 years and have gone from £12.60 to £26.00 each…. Thin tube of aluminium with a black plastic cup on each end and a press fitted 6mm stud with a ball on it. Inflation eh
Ignore them at your peril, if they seize they will break the Sensors plastic (non repairable) arm for sure.
Note 2 Main Dealers never grease them. Luckily MBS caught them before 3 nearly sheared the level sensor arms, and the 4th was pretty tight. Defo worth splurging some grease over the opening. I forgot and 11,000 miles later and 7 years and they all need replacing. Maybe my low 1500 per annum mileage allows rust to build inside the cups.
Last edited:
