wez.k
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- Mar 26, 2005
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- Your Mercedes
- SLK280/08/2997
I done it!
Here is how I did it for the benefit of anyone else who has the same problem.
1. Remove the RH fuse access panel which you can see when the door is open, (two big plastic quick release screws)
2. Remove the RH airvent/fusebox assembly. There is a screw going vertically upwards through the upper horizontal edge, and another screw into a support at the rear, which you access from the underside of the lower panel, forward of the hood release. When you have removed these the assembly can be pulled forward out of the dashboard, the headlight beam adjuster pushes out backwards.
3. Drop the lower panel. There are two screws behind a plastic cover which is itself secured by a screw adjacent to the steering wheel adjuster, plus others to the right and left and one at the top left hand corner of the aforementioned RH access panel (see 1.).
Dont take out any of the screws you may find down near to the pedals as these only fasten the black plastic cover around the pedals. When you have removed the screws the panel will drop downwards onto your legs, but will not come out entirely as it is tethered by various harnesses etc. At this point movement becomes difficult!
4. Remove the instrument surround panel. This is thin plastic and clips under the padded rim at the top. You can ease the rim upward to free it, and it can then be removed quite easily.
5. You can now see the instrument cluster, which is held in place by four bright plated screws, two at the top and two at the bottom. It helps if you have one of those bendy screwdrivers because the two lower screws are difficult to reach because of the position of the steering wheel.
6. Having removed the screws, you can move the cluster around, but you cant get it out completely, you can however move it enough to get your fingers around the back.
The bulb is a 12V/2W capless variety, held in a receptor which is sunk into a cavity in the rear surface. You can feel the end of the receptor, but you cant get enough leverage to turn it. For this you need a 12m/m socket, I used one from a 6m/m square drive set which had just the right O/D to fit in the recess. This will give you enough grip with your fingers to turn the receptor and withdraw it, thereby giving access to the bulb, which you can change and then repeat the whole process in reverse.
Enjoy!
If you wish to discuss this thread pls post replies here
Here is how I did it for the benefit of anyone else who has the same problem.
1. Remove the RH fuse access panel which you can see when the door is open, (two big plastic quick release screws)
2. Remove the RH airvent/fusebox assembly. There is a screw going vertically upwards through the upper horizontal edge, and another screw into a support at the rear, which you access from the underside of the lower panel, forward of the hood release. When you have removed these the assembly can be pulled forward out of the dashboard, the headlight beam adjuster pushes out backwards.
3. Drop the lower panel. There are two screws behind a plastic cover which is itself secured by a screw adjacent to the steering wheel adjuster, plus others to the right and left and one at the top left hand corner of the aforementioned RH access panel (see 1.).
Dont take out any of the screws you may find down near to the pedals as these only fasten the black plastic cover around the pedals. When you have removed the screws the panel will drop downwards onto your legs, but will not come out entirely as it is tethered by various harnesses etc. At this point movement becomes difficult!
4. Remove the instrument surround panel. This is thin plastic and clips under the padded rim at the top. You can ease the rim upward to free it, and it can then be removed quite easily.
5. You can now see the instrument cluster, which is held in place by four bright plated screws, two at the top and two at the bottom. It helps if you have one of those bendy screwdrivers because the two lower screws are difficult to reach because of the position of the steering wheel.
6. Having removed the screws, you can move the cluster around, but you cant get it out completely, you can however move it enough to get your fingers around the back.
The bulb is a 12V/2W capless variety, held in a receptor which is sunk into a cavity in the rear surface. You can feel the end of the receptor, but you cant get enough leverage to turn it. For this you need a 12m/m socket, I used one from a 6m/m square drive set which had just the right O/D to fit in the recess. This will give you enough grip with your fingers to turn the receptor and withdraw it, thereby giving access to the bulb, which you can change and then repeat the whole process in reverse.
Enjoy!
If you wish to discuss this thread pls post replies here
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